Luna BBSHD Ludicrous V2 controller documentation

[stts]

Now this is outstanding wiring info for stopping those pesky gremlins from invading the joys of eBiking. It may be good to have a separate wiring tips thread to keep stuff like this from being buried. I see many posts where wiring conditions are underappreciated.

[Jungle]

Hi. Is there something I have to do to turn on the Bluetooth. My app doesn't pick up when it scans. Thanks

[Floid]

A couple configuration questions. I skimmed through the posts but don't see good explanation of these. I don't see much of an explanation in the manual. Let me know if there is a better place to look. I have the X2 bike with 54 v battery.

RPM - is there any advantage of a lower RPM setting? I mostly run street legal settings - any reason not to increase RPM to the max or near the max? Seems like this would be the most efficient setting for the motor and heat regulation?

Power vs PAS Amps - what is the relationship between these? For example, if I set power to 500 watts, does the max amps equal 500 watts / 54v = ~9 amps? As long as PAS amps exceeds this then it should not limit the assist level? However, in messing around, I can tell a difference between 25 and 35 PAS amps for a given assist level, and I see motor amps up to 20 amps on the ride display. At 20 amps wouldn't the motor be putting out about 1000 watts? I'm having a hard time connecting the dots.

PAS Amps vs Throttle Amps - I notice that increasing PAS Amps automatically adjusts Throttle Ams down, but then I can increase Throttle Amps again. Is there a relationship between these two? Do they need to stay under the max configured battery amps?

Thanks!

[marcos]

in that case, the overvoltage is real and the reason is the battery being far away from the controller and having field weakening enabled. Generally its not a problem to have long motor phase wires, an airplane could have the motor 100ft away from the controller... but it is important to keep the DC side of the controller close to the battery. When the controller is far away from the DC source you'll often see a bigger bank of capacitors at the controller to avoid current spikes in the DC wires.

Fortunately all v2 controllers use 100V rated parts and its safe to increase the input voltage limit to 84V. Its there just to make it obvious to a user that the settings are for a 14s battery, in case you keep jumping from 52V 100A and 72V 60A (you may not want to draw 100A from your 72V batt). If those faults keep happening with a standard bbshd+luna battery pack I can increase the limit a bit, I just haven't seen them.

For those running a 72V battery: short, tight DC wires for the win

[ncmired]

I've two BBSHD V2 controllers, and both have shown a tendency to throw an overvoltage error while running on the bike stand and/or with no load on the rear wheel. The behavior symptom is repeatable:

1. while the system is "on", hit the throttle (motor runs)
2. let off very briefly and hit the throttle again (the motor does not run, nor does PAS work)
3. wait for a few seconds (roughly the chain spindown time) and either hit the throttle again or spin the pedals - the motor again runs

No errors show on the display, and I got the same symptoms when all motor inhibitors and related sensors were unplugged. The first controller exhibited the issue early on, and the second one did today after extending the power-related wiring to install a second battery.

Thanks to Marcos's excellent software, I could catch the overvoltage error reported briefly by the controller. I only run 52-volt batteries, and the overvoltage was set (IIRC) in the sixties - I reset it to the high limit of approx. 84 volts, as I did a long time ago on the first controller.

My guess is that there's an inductive kick - perhaps too much for a capacitor to suppress and/or being picked up by an overzealous sensor circuit.

[marcos]

If the batteries are exactly the same and both can supply 40A, then you could increase the controller battery current limit to 80A. That would dump about 4kW into the motor.
However, keep in mind no two batteries are exactly the same, one of them will have lower internal resistance, or higher voltage or better cells, so it will tend to flow more amps than the other. I don't know what batteries do you have, and even if I knew I don't know what would be an adequate derating to accommodate for this. If I had to swing it I'd go for 60 battery Amps max and see how it goes.
It kind of sucks when one of the paralleled BMS's trips as the other one has to take the full load, and gets discharged. If their voltage gets too different you can't re-arm the tripped BMS because it will send a ton of Amps from the charged battery to the discharged one, tripping the BMS again.

[stts]

The simple answer. For a safer situation, set it at 40Amps. For more power and more danger to your system, set it higher than 40 Amps.

[Wamedrano]

Hi I guess I asked this question in a different topic incorrectly….


I own a Ludi controller and want to use two 20AH in parallel. (I have been doing this for a while safely and correctly) they both have a 40A continuous bms.

since in the Ludi controller you can select amp limit for batteries should I select 40A or 80A since it draws from both. My understanding is that if your motor draws 40A it will draw technically draw 20a from each (hence why voltage slag is very small when in parallel ex 1-2 v)

im not sure what amp setting to use.

[marcos]

Hi Rob, do you remember exactly what you did to end up like this? This has happened before and I don't understand how you can brick it with a firmware update if the app only allows you to upload the correct firmware

[marcos]

Its not a V2 because it has a single big capacitor. V2 has 6 smaller caps, and all of them have dark housings

[ncmired]

It's not a Luna Ludicrous V2 (picture in your other post) ... Guessing by the ribbing it is a V1 but not positive.

Product pages are https://lunacycle.com/secret2/ and https://lunacycle.com/secret-v2/

[humblebee]

Hi,
I'm trying to determine what version this ludicrous controller is. I was told it is a V2 but the internal component placement sure looks like a V1. Is there a sure way to tell just visually?
Thanks

[Rob13]

Hey Rob here, I have a question and wondering if any of you can help. I have a v2 controller that I'm trying to set up for the first time. and i think i made a mistake updating the firmware because i keep getting the message in the attached pic and can't connect with the vesc tool after i made an update to the firmware . So wondering how to fix it?

[Bullfrog]

Oh I totally missed this notification.

Bullfrog the controller won't work out of the box with 72V battery because its an OverVoltage scenario for a default 52V battery. You just have to go to the vesc tool app, BIKE CFG tab, pick the 72V battery presets (this will fill in the settings) and then hit the WRITE button.
The 72V preset limits battery current to 60A. You can set it higher if you want, but I'd recommend starting at 60A and see how it goes, in my particular bike and with so little flesh on my bones it was a bit scary.

Your firmware may be too old, and if your app is the latest you might have to update the firmware to use that new app. Link to the app is in the user manual (I'll check if link is working now)

D. At 72V you'll rarely hit FW speeds as it would engage at very high pedal cadence and the controller limits the motor rpm to avoid it generating more than ~90V, you can check that in the logs (id current). If you would like to make sure no FW is applied I can add a slider to the TUNE tab, its a bit of code that I could borrow from the M600 UI.

Thanks Marcos. My big hold up now is getting my tablet to work with the latest V2 firmware...but that is my problem and not anything you can help with at this point. I may need to buy a new tablet since the one I have is getting old.

The Field Weakening slider would be nice but no hurry to get it done. You have to understand that the way I use my bike is "NO" pedaling and I gear it so the motor runs fairly efficiently plus never gets me going faster than I can avoid the trees on the single track where I am riding. With my 28 tooth chain ring and something like a 35 tooth rear sprocket and running a 72v battery....my top speed should be about 18 mph and I plan to adjust my gearing if needed so I can NOT exceed 18 mph without any Field Weakening. So when I hit 18 mph, I do NOT want Field Weakening to allow me to go any faster...since those trees start to jump out in front of me if I exceed 18 mph :) AND I don't want any Field Weakening because that will add additional heat that I don't need since I am already pushing the motor pretty hard by not pedaling.

Thanks again...your help is priceless, well almost priceless :).

Just a tidbit for anyone with an older Android device...I believe you need to be running Android 10 or higher to load and use the VESC tool. I had an older tablet I was trying to use and it wouldn't work...got a new tablet and the things you can program with the new V2 Ludi controller are totally amazing :).

[ncmired]

When trying to download the VESC Tool (from the user manual link https://public.3.basecamp.com/p/3vQF...emSnoEdNCAhiPi), basecamp reports, "Public sharing has been turned off" for this file.

The Basecamp link is still unavailable (sharing turned off) - is this still the correct place to download the BBSHD V2 controller .apk file?