How to install your Bafang Hydraulic Disc Brake Sensors

[Sebz]

Were is the best place to mount the sensor and magnet on your hydraulics brake levers and how to do it on the first try?

Link to the Bafang sensors

There are way too many models to show you all, but I taken the 3 most popular ones:

1. The new Shimano series have a very similar lever. Shimano Deore (M615 and M506), the Shimano SLX (M675 M7000), the Shimano XT (M8000 and M785), the Shimano XTR (M90XX), The Shimano ZEE (M640) and the Shimano Saint (M820)
2. The Shimano M355 (same as M396 and Acera)
3. The Avid series (Elixir, CODES, BDx and juicy) Sram is now the new brand but the lever mechanism is similar.

Missing from that list are the Hopes brakes, but from this post, you can probably figure out a way to mount them. Same goes for non-hydraulic brakes!


This is what you receive: a magnet and sensor with double sided tape on it :










This sensor is a simple piece of hardware, there are no moving parts in it, it's just a reed switch (or hall sensor) potted in the plastic case. Basically when the magnet is close to the sensor the circuit is open and the controller lets power pass through the motor. Then when you pull the magnet further away from the sensor, the switch closes the circuit and send voltage to the controller then it instantly cuts the power to the motor.


For the installation procedure, I used the Shimano SLX version, but it's the same for all the lever, look down on the thread to your model to give you an idea were to start.

Also, the distance between the sensor and magnet shown in these photos is not the real one and it depends on the sensor and magnets, some will need to be closer together!

Sorry for my used sensor, I had to remove the glue around the magnet to do this post.













So before you epoxy everything in place and next figure out that it's not working properly, follow the next steps:

Clean the lever and base with alcohol to remove any trace of oils and dirt.

You want it to be sensible, to actually stop the motor before your callipers start to bite hard, but not too sensible that vibrations and just finger resting on the lever triggers the sensor.
I suggest to use a bike stand or find a way to lift the back wheel so it can spin freely while you work on the levers.

Plug on sensor in the yellow plug on your main harness. turn on the LCD.

Place the magnet at the most logical place on the lever (Again look down to other model to give you an idea)

If your don't have steel in the lever, use gum, tape, anything temporary to test the magnet.















What I do it use a clamp to set the desired level of lever action I want (like this next picture). place the sensor at the appropriate place closer to the magnet (do not remove the tape yet), give a little throttle and move the sensor away from the magnet till the motor stops. Remove the plastic and stick the sensor at the exact place the motor stopped. next remove the clamp (or whatever you used) to let go the lever.

Test again with a little throttle, actuate the lever, the motor will stop exactly were you wanted.

If it satisfies your needs, you can fix it permanently. I ride in wild trails and get hit by branches all the time, so I used good quality hot glue around the sensor and on the magnet, epoxy glue can be used too at your own risks! But I do not recommend to drill a hole in your lever and screw the magnet in place. Yes there is a hole in the magnet but it's really fragile and will crack with minimal pressure... better to use epoxy then it you tell want it solid! If you cracke the magnet, get some on eBay, look for neodymium magnets (do not use cheap black fridge ceramic magnet, it won't work)

Repeat for the other side, unplug the battery, plug the brake sensor....follow the steps!


Now the other models:

The Shimano M355 can be mounted 2 ways,


Front mount (Best), like the Shimano SLX. The double sided tape won't hold it enough, not enough contact surface, you will need use hot glue (or epoxy)








Underside installation, cleaner but harder to set properly. The double sided tape won't hold it enough, not enough contact surface, you will need use hot glue (or epoxy)

[Sebz]

Avid Elixir, juicy....

Front mount : This is the best way, I tried both and it worked better that way. The double sided tape won't hold it enough, not enough contact surface, you will need use hot glue (or epoxy)




Underside install, same thing, it will need to be glued, be careful not to put glue in the pivot under the sensor!




Hope that helps

If you have other models you would like to share, please do.

[Sebz]

UPDATE, Thank you JPlab for the Tektro Draco brakes pictures and info

Text from JPlab's post :

These particular levers are shaped such that there isn't a good position to mount the sensor and included magnet reliably and cleanly, with the included double-stick tape. The magnet needs to move AWAY from the sensor when the brake is applied. If the sensor and magnet are mounted on the top or bottom, with the only large, flat mounting surfaces, the motion is wrong and I could not get the sensor to actuate.

Here's what I found works well - mounting to the front face:

The sensor mounted fairly well with the included tape, on the front of the lever housing, right next to where the lever sticks out. I might glue it later.

Adjacent to the sensor I superglued a 1/4" x 1/8" rare earth magnet. This magnet works well, and is a bit smaller than the stock one. I think a tiny magnet like a 1/16 x 1/16 x 1/4 bar magnet should even work, but this was what I had. I put the magnet as close as possible to the sensor, with the lever reach adjusted as far out as I thought I'd ever want it. That way there is room to adjust the lever closer, without making the magnet gap too large. Actuation has been perfectly reliable for me. I chose to put is on the LH side because it's used like a clutch when shifting. Feels natural to me.

Link to original post

[rimrock]

This sensor is a simple piece of hardware, there are no moving parts in it, it's just a reed switch (or hall sensor) potted in the plastic case. Basically when the magnet is close to the sensor the circuit is open and the controller lets power pass through the motor. Then when you pull the magnet further away from the sensor, the switch closes the circuit and send voltage to the controller then it instantly cuts the power to the motor.

Dumb question #1: when the handle is released so the circuit opens again, is power instantly restored to the motor?

Question #2: is there any way to connect two ebrake sensors, one on each lever? i.e., does anyone make a y cable that is compatible with the Bafang cables?

[tommie]

Dumb question #1: when the handle is released so the circuit opens again, is power instantly restored to the motor? Yes

Question #2: is there any way to connect two ebrake sensors, one on each lever? i.e., does anyone make a y cable that is compatible with the Bafang cables?

You don`t really need to do that, just use the left one like a motorbike clutch, only set it so you just need to touch it to kill the motor, not enough to brake if you know what i mean

[JPLabs]

There are Y cables, yes. The BBS-XX controllers come with dual brake sensor wires, if you want to use both.

[Dead President]

Has anyone installed the Bafang BBSHD brake sensors on the Hayes Dyno hydraulic brakes (KHS-1000)? They are a bit different.

[JPLabs]

I looked that up - you are right, a bit different. I see why you are asking...

This one, right?

https://www.hayesdiscbrake.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/dyno-comp-white.jpg

Looks like the front of the lever still moves away from the housing with actuation. Is that right?

If so, then one way would be to make a small wedge to space the sensor out, so it can end next to a magnet on the lever.

[Dead President]

Ordered the sensors. Will take pictures and post next weekend after i get it working.

[bikermiker]

I hate the Bafang sensors with a passion, they just don't function correctly, don't buy them is my advice. I have shimano 315"s which are really good and cost effective, I only want hydraulic fluid brakes because I go pretty fast and can not afford a brake failure so wire brakes are to risky. ,You have to position sensors and magnet very carefully for them to function at all and it's down to a 1/2 millimeter difference as the whether they work without a "out range fault" which stops the engine from turning on, I have tried all of the above positions and have had to change position of the magnets with temperature change due to weather which aren't that extreme in mild Australia, there are times when for no reason I can find that they just cut the motor because of the fault and now I have had to disconnect one of them permanently, the luna seller in Australia blames my installation and refuses to deal with a refund. Waste of money. I have ordered a complete "installed already" set of factory installed shimano 365"s from passion bikes via aliexpress which will be fitted tomorrow and I'll post to let you know how they work, it only cost me $100 AUD delivered to my door - includes everything but disc's.

[JPLabs]

I really like the Bafang sensors. Cheap, easy to retrofit, and perfectly reliable in my experience. You must be setting them up differently than I do. Or have a wiring glitch, perhaps.

I set the magnet very close to the sensor. Too far, and it won't work consistently. Even if too far, I never got an error, though.

[Petal]

I modded the mechanical bafang breaksensors with hall sensors instead. Way smaller then the original hall sensors from bafang!

Link for foto collage: https://imgur.com/a/595wB

[squirrelpie0]

After several months and nearly 10000 km on BBSO2B on TT Rover, It has been great. Started having intermittent power cut off. Noted brake signal was coming on on display, and noted 'flicking' brake level restored power. Then magnet epoxied to the handle fell off and of course problem was found. 2nd miracle was finding magnet on trail. Taping it in position would not give me consistent power on. Noted shiny coating was peeling off/ gone from some of the magnet. Taped magnet right onto sensor and power on problem solved, but of course no power off which I like for shifting.
Question: Is it the magnet weakness causing issue or sensitivity of switch that is problem? It was not proximity of magnet to switch as that had not moved since installation. Do the switches or magnets get weak?
Advice please

Solved.... I think. After running with old magnet taped to sensor and no problem, I salvage a magnet from the guts of an old hard drive. Taped it to the handle for a temporary fix and according to the brake indicator lamp on the display it is working properly.. I will take it for a test run tomorrow before epoxy it in place. But looks fine w adequate apply of brake handle before indicator turns on.

[lukasra]

I have to admit that I really hate this glue/epoxy solution! Its unreliable for me and it looks bad.
Does anyone know a brake where these sensors are integrated?
I assume the Magura MT5e has integrated Higo switches but cannot see for sure.

Thank you!

[AZguy]

I used 3M VRB tape (extremely strong) and put the sensors on the underside of my SRAM Guide RS brakes and you can't even see the sensors or wires and they work just fine. Took some fussing to get it right but once done.... well it's done!

I've seen some other brakes that are darn near impossible to get the same results but on mine it's a very nice clean solution...

[BCBeaver]

My kit came with the magnetic sensor but I also have a set of levers with a switch built in that were sent in error as part of a different kit. I've got cable brakes so I want to use them because the crappy ancient levers on the bike don't work well with the sensors (and they're crap). My levers are 2 wire, the magnetic sensors are 3 wire. What is the third wire for?

[kalahari]

I have a 3d printer, so I decided to make some lever arms to hold the magnets. This gave me a better place to mount the switch, and more travel for the magnet when the lever is pulled. I decided to use zip ties over epoxy, in case I want to change/adjust it in the future.