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BBSHD Crank bolt killin me
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With 170mm crank arms I'm down to around 5" or slightly less. But with the 114mm Uni crank arms look at practically 7" of clearance! Which means I can keep pedaling while severely leaning through most curves/corners. Something which always bothered me since it suck's to cut power in those situations and/or suffer pedal strike. Which btw, take a close look at the end of that pedal:
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With 170mm cranks I got almost 6" of clearance on my folding 20" fat bike. To scrape I have to be leaning beyond my tire grip limit ... Or be over a big root or bump.
On my Full Suspension mtb with 175mm cranks I have 5.5" clearance, which goes down to 4.5 or so after sag (as soon as I sit on the bike), and probably down to 2.5" or even 2" on full compression (I got 4" suspension travel, so theoretically about 3.5" or a little more downward travel at max compression). So yeah there I have to be careful which leg is down when leaning on turns, and I usually don't pedal on sharp turns.Last edited by Kocho; 10-01-2017, 05:27 PM.
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With usual 170mm crank arms I hit ground leaning while pedaling during turns/corners all the time. Also pedal striking large humps/bumps off-road too.
As you can see these little shorties (114mm) don't even stick out past the motor. Compared to "normal" length it feels weird but as I grow more accustomed/conditioned to the feel the more I like them because of the extra ground clearance.
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I am not getting this. Is this a single track thing? I don't think I have dragged a pedal but I have dragged my big size 15 feet if my pedals are in a 12/6 o'clock position. This still only happens if I stretch my leg out with my heel pointing down. Are you pedaling around turns in rough terrain?
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I'm liking them more and more... Funny looking but ample lean angle before pedal strike -
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Funny you mentioned seat height because I actually raised it a bit since my legs don’t need to extend as much using the 114mm arms. Still low enough I don’t get out of the saddle at stops but now high enough so that I can use a seat post luggage rack.
Took a long ride today and really enjoyed the extra cornering clearance while pedaling. Big improvement leaving PAS working while leaning significantly into curves
It’s also nice to “feel” a tad more resistance with the short stroking crank arms. Especially around 25 MPH.
Still kinda weird but in a good way….
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I think they work well for you since you like to ride with the seat relatively low (at least compared to me). If I shorten my crank by 70mm, I would need to raise my seat by about as much in order to maintain good leg extension. Which would put me too high above the ground, and I already barely reach the ground as it is, plus it would force me to lean more forward than I like as my handlebars won't go any higher.Last edited by Kocho; 09-23-2017, 04:42 PM.
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I'd be curious to find out how you like them. I personally like longer cranks for two reasons: first, I can actually put some torque down to help move the bike (especially if I run out of battery); second, I got big feet, and if the cranks are too short, my knee will be way forward of my toes, which tends to cause knee pain for me on a bike.
But for just maintaining cadence, they should be great.
Originally posted by ykick View PostProbably regret it but 'stumbled on these 114mm alloy unicycle square taper cranks - http://www.ebay.com/itm/QX-AX-1-Unic...72.m2749.l2649
At minimum will improve pedal strike clearance. And if lucky 'might even "feel" a tad more resistance at higher road speeds? Or, I might've just wasted $26....???
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Probably regret it but 'stumbled on these 114mm alloy unicycle square taper cranks - http://www.ebay.com/itm/QX-AX-1-Unic...72.m2749.l2649
At minimum will improve pedal strike clearance. And if lucky 'might even "feel" a tad more resistance at higher road speeds? Or, I might've just wasted $26....???
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While I thought about sanding off the paint, I was lazy and just installed them. I think the paint stripped itself due to multiple retightenings, several times per ride,every few miles initially. On my kit there was paint on the axel and on the cranks' holes.
Basically, rode with the the hex wrench handy and just stopped every once in a while and torqued them down each time by a quarter or so turn. Eventually, it was gone and the cranks stayed put. I don't think this is a good way to do it, but it worked, because I did not let the cranks get loose around the axel at any point (if you do, you will round the square and you'll have to get new cranks).Last edited by Kocho; 09-21-2017, 02:02 PM.
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