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    #16
    Hoping to see a resolution to this soon. I use a Shark pack on my BBSHD and remove it when I get to work each day. On my ebike with the DPC-14, this hasn't been a problem, but I hate having to reset the time on the 750c every afternoon when I ride that ebike.

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      #17
      Originally posted by mtrain13 View Post
      Hoping to see a resolution to this soon. I use a Shark pack on my BBSHD and remove it when I get to work each day. On my ebike with the DPC-14, this hasn't been a problem, but I hate having to reset the time on the 750c every afternoon when I ride that ebike.
      I wouldn't let that rent too much space, I have a watch and a cell phone. It's just an annoying "feature" that if anything. highlights a lack of beta testing. I like the display overall, it looks more integrated on my bike, not like a stuck on afterthought. For that, I'll give it a pass. BUT: If I knew for sure that it was a defective battery, I'll work on replacing it.

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        #18
        Originally posted by Lost View Post
        When the unit was opened, did anyone check the battery voltage? I wonder if the battery is actually dead or a design flaw.
        I have a recently dead 750C laying around. Opened it up and checked out the MS621FE button battery. It’s supposed to be 3V lithium rechargeable but only measuring 1.1V.

        Picture speaks 1000 words - Click image for larger version  Name:	image1.JPG Views:	1 Size:	555.9 KB ID:	39901


        Since the display is dead to me I’m not sure if this battery is supposed to have any charge applied as installed in the 750C when connected to a battery pack?

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          #19
          3V, 5.5mAh, 0.27" Dia x 0.08" H (6.8mm x 2.1mm).
          https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...057-ND/1889208 Click image for larger version  Name:	2017-07-16_001123.jpg Views:	1 Size:	382.1 KB ID:	39962





          Try something with a MUCH larger capacity......
          RTC (Real Time Clock)/CMOS (Complementary Metal-Oxide-Semiconductor).....bios memory.
          Click image for larger version  Name:	2017-07-16_002005.jpg Views:	1 Size:	153.6 KB ID:	39963

          Click image for larger version  Name:	2017-07-16_004223.jpg Views:	1 Size:	353.0 KB ID:	39968


          Last edited by MichaelT; 07-15-2017, 11:49 PM.
          .
          .
          NO AIRBAGS .... WE DIE LIKE REAL MEN

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            #20
            ^^^Thanks for that! The question no becomes if the (TINY!) charging current will screw up that battery. I would doubt it.

            Link to a battery. http://www.jameco.com/z/CR2032-LEADS...gaAt8fEALw_wcB
            Last edited by Lost; 07-16-2017, 11:47 AM.

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            • ykick
              ykick commented
              Editing a comment
              Or perhaps the question - "is there any charging current" designed into the circuit?

              I wish my 750C worked, I would try to find out...

            #21
            Sounds like maybe we need an LIR2032? https://www.tindie.com/products/bobr...arger-lir2032/

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              #22
              RTC battery does NOT take a charge, it runs down then you replace it.
              Have you never replaced the RTC (Real Time Clock)/CMOS battery in your PC?


              .
              .
              NO AIRBAGS .... WE DIE LIKE REAL MEN

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                #23
                Anyone hear if and how there is going to be a firmware update for the 750C?

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                  #24
                  This isn't a battery issue as much as a firmware one. My battery is never disconnected, I only shut off the display. The time remains correct for up to an hour if shut off and back on. Beyond that the time "freezes" and then begins at that time when powered back up... or in other cases it loses time during that period but is still running. If the battery failed, the time would reset to factory defaults. It's remembering time, but just not accurately. To me this is clearly firmware at fault.

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                  • ykick
                    ykick commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Measuring 1.1V on a battery cell which should be around 3.3V is a battery issue.

                    All FW becomes totally unpredictable if circuit voltages fluctuate at or below minimums. Dying empty battery will sag and recover slightly as the load is removed. Rinse and repeat that a few times and who knows what the clock displays.

                  #25
                  Okay well patiently waits for someone to change the battery and see if it fixes everything.

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                    #26
                    Bump, anyone try replacing this yet? I really like the display, this would be a nice issue to have so easily fixed.

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                    • ykick
                      ykick commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Unfortunately, I don't have a working 750C to attempt.

                    #27
                    Is there a way to contact someone at Luna to have them test this since they are branding this as a functioning display and it's not functioning. They offered me something like a 25 dollar discount after I told them about this problem, that gauging from reviews on the site they were aware of the problem. I got it for free with a BBSHD purchase but would have gotten their other color display (which now offers 52V capacity readout) since I thought that only could display 48V. I don't feel it's my obligation to potentially break mine and void warranty for this, and it seems like what you all have discovered seems like it may very well fix the issue.

                    Thanks.

                    Comment


                    • paxtana
                      paxtana commented
                      Editing a comment
                      The clock is not an advertised feature, long time ago we changed the documentation at top of this thread to point out clock doesn't work. If you got a 25 dollar discount to make up for something you got for free that's pretty good. The dpc14 is out of stock and we will not know if it does 52 with new batch until it arrives.

                      There is nothing to test, as I pointed out in my pictures there is nothing to connect a larger battery to not even some metal pins. The original is epoxied directly to the board with pins coming off the batt not the board. None of the proposed batteries here have pins already spot-welded on just bare wires. If you can neither remove original or connect a new one it's not gonna happen, just check your phone if you want to see what time it is

                    #28
                    Originally posted by SM300 View Post
                    Is there a way to contact someone at Luna to have them test this since they are branding this as a functioning display and it's not functioning. They offered me something like a 25 dollar discount after I told them about this problem, that gauging from reviews on the site they were aware of the problem. I got it for free with a BBSHD purchase but would have gotten their other color display (which now offers 52V capacity readout) since I thought that only could display 48V. I don't feel it's my obligation to potentially break mine and void warranty for this, and it seems like what you all have discovered seems like it may very well fix the issue.

                    Thanks.
                    I would very much like to know the same thing. I don't want to open this up and solder a new battery in if it will void the warranty either.

                    Comment


                    • paxtana
                      paxtana commented
                      Editing a comment
                      As I have stated numerous times in this thread it is IMPOSSIBLE to solder in a new battery.

                    #29
                    Originally posted by cajk View Post
                    Hi,

                    On the 750c the "brake applied" symbol is a red "exclamation mark" surrounded by a circle and then enclosed in a pair of round brackets. It appears on the top line of the display, between the clock and the battery indicator.

                    Sorta like this: (!) only with a circle around the !

                    See this thread for a photo of the same symbol on the DPC-14:

                    https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...dpc-14-display

                    Hope that helps!
                    Howdie eBike gurus,

                    I'm the recent owner of Luna Police Bike who posted a melt-down issue a couple of months ago caused by the spaces in the cradle and battery terminals being too far apart/loose, causing excess heat, and melting the plastic around the cradle points and the battery receiver slots. (Sorry for the incorrect terminology) Luna took care of me and the bike is running fine again. I have the 13.5 amp, 1000 watt, Shark bat and the BBSHD motor.

                    I watched a YouTube video by the cycle shop "Bike Friday" on how to adjust the Shimano BR-M375 mechanical disc brake that I have. I did a minor adjustment since I didn't want to loosen the entire caliper: I merely adjusted the postion of the mechanical arm by loosening the 5mm bolt and bringing the arm a bit tighter. This seemed to be enough because before the adjustment I couldn't lock the rear brake by pulling hard. Now I can, both tested at about 15 mph on the street.

                    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vRZIXVWjfZA

                    I have only 500 miles on my new bike, however I guess my braking pattern and ride profile has made an adjustment necessary. All seemed well as I took off today to ride 12.5 miles to work. After I turned on the battery and squeezed the rear brake, a little red icon lit up with the exclamation point inside. Same went for the front brake which I never adjusted. When I let off the brakes the light went out.

                    I decided to ride anyway and thought that I would research this icon warning light on the forum later. I got about 6 miles into my ride and the battery just stopped and the display turned off. I took the battery off the cradle and put it back on, tired restarting, but the faint "Luna" that floats by showed up quickly and then went black again. When I got home I tested the system with my new battery and it turned on fine. When I squeezed the brake though, the warning icon came on again.

                    - What is the warning icon indicating?
                    - Does the brake sensor actually have the smarts to shut off the bike if it senses something related to low brakes/broken brakes/brakes too tight?

                    I can spin the rear wheel with no apprent rubbing and the flat disk is straight and true.

                    Any hlep would be greatly appreciated. Oh, and just to show how I am stretching my knowledge and abilities concerning this bike after having a Bionx for 7 years, I had to remove the Allen (?) fittings on the replacement cradle that Luna sent me and butt splice/heat shrink the cradle wire to the motor wires. First time I've done something like that in the eBike world. It has worked fine since then.

                    Thanks,
                    Jimbo
                    सर्वमायाविभंजन

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                    #30
                    Hello,
                    I just purchased the BBSHD Middrive Kit with a Dolphin 13.xx am your battery, along with the 750c display. I have not yet built the bike but wanted to pretest al the electronics. Everything is hooked up including brake sensors. The 750 screen boots, the throttle spins the motor but the motor only spins at one speed. The throttle does not "vary" the motor speed. I understand not being on a bike means the speed sensor is not getting any magnet ticks. Is there a setting I missed to vary the speed of the motor with the stock thumb throttle this comes with the unit?

                    https://lunacycle.com/bafang-bbshd-1000w-middrive-kit/

                    Thanks

                    Brian

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