Troubleshooting the BBSHD / BBS02

This is troubleshooting a BBSHD/BBS02

If you are having issues but the motor is still running please select one of the 2 following links:

BBSHD Troubleshooting Random issues on unit still moving

BBSHD BBS02 Error code list

If the motor moves on PAS but no throttle, just check the throttle pins and plugs or replace the throttle. If the PAS is not working and the throttle does, it’s likely a programming issue, controller issue or a PAS sensor issue.

BBSHD problems can happen and but they are not too difficult to diagnose.

Here is a trouble shooting guide to help you diagnose what could be wrong.r>
The most likely culprits are:

Battery / charger
Display
Bad wiring harness or connectors or sensors.
Controller

Before trying anything in this guide, please start by unplugging anything that is optional such as ebrakes, gear sensor, removing aftermarket switches etc. If unplugged the motor works then start plugging one sensor at the time until you find which one is defective. If you have the hydraulic sensors, make sure the magnet part is still there and that the sensor is still in place.

Evaluate whether there is any moisture present, and especially if any salt or saltwater is present on anything electrical. Salt is especially bad for electrical connections.

1) Is it the battery?

It will be much easier to troubleshoot your BBSHD if you have a 2nd battery around (so you can rule out battery). If your bbshd is completely dead, not coming on at all it could be a battery issue.

Start by going over this thread (click here)

You can rule out the battery by powering the motor with your charger, watch this video on how to do it:

If you have a shark pack make sure you read this :

For all hard packs (shark, dolphin, bottle, jumbo, killer whale) the issue can be in the terminals or the cradle, take out your screwdriver and open the cradle to check is there is a loose wire in the cradle base, look for any signs or metled plastic or shorts to the metal base.

For more information on shark contact maintenance and practices for keeping it in good working order please see this page.

Is your battery charged and working properly...check the voltage of the battery with a voltmeter. (described more here).

You can bypass the battery by using the charger to test if kit runs off of another power source. If the bike runs from the charger it means it’s either the battery, cradle, connections, or wiring to the controller.

Is your battery connections solid? Often times a loose connection will cause your bike to fail or the bms in your battery to trip. You can test connection with a multimeter by pushing the leads through the insulation on the power wiring past the point of the connector, and testing for voltage. On the wiring going battery>controller you want to test the wiring nearest controller. If you see no voltage the power wiring is where the problem is. Please see the video below for an example.

Check your xt90s or other connector and make sure it is not fried. Sometimes a connection coming partially loose will cause the connector to heat up and fail as can be seen in the video below

2) Is it the display (LCD)?

The BBSHD needs the display to work properly. If you have a 2nd display around this is a great time to try it to see if the display is the culprit. Consider investing in a second display if you don't have one. consider buying a nifty 860c color display...its worth having an extra one around. If you don’t please continue testing.

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2.1) My display works but no motor movement.

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2.1.1) I’m getting an error code....check this post for description of error codes. Error codes are another reason BBSHDs are so easy to diagnose compared to a typical kit. Error 30 is the most common critical error...and usually means controller, display or harness issue. Please refer to the error codes post and test accordingly. Getting Error 21 means that the speedo sensor is either defective or not installed properly, without it the motor will likely shut down after a couple minutes as it will think the motor is not in use, please look this part of the guide to fix this issue

2.1.2) No error code?

Unplug the battery (always do when you are about to unplug any connections, you can fry a component if you don’t)

Unplug the brake sensors, gear sensors, speed sensor or any sensor that can cut the power to the motor.

Check all your connections and make sure they are plugged securely, and that no pins in any of the connectors are bent, and no mud or moisture has entered connector. (see our post on waterproofing BBSxx for future reference, highly recommended)

Plug the battery back and test the bike again without sensors. Does it work? If yes start by pluggin one sensor at the time and find the culprit.

IF you have no codes but you have the ((!)) icon lit up on the dashboard then it means a sensor is either defective or that the main harness is damanged, unplug all brake sensors and gear sensor and test without them, if you still have the (!) icon then it'S possibly a damaged main harness or a defective controller. If unplugged the motor works then start plugging one sensor at the time until you find which one is defective. If you have the hydraulic sensors, make sure the magnet part is still there and that the sensor is still in place.

Evaluate whether there is any moisture present, and especially if any salt or saltwater is present on anything electrical. Salt is especially bad for electrical connections If no luck please proceed to 2.2.

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2.2) My display is dead. Does not power, power for a second and turns off, does not turn off completely…

Please do this:

Unplug the battery (always do when you are about to unplug any connections, you can fry a component if you don’t)

If you haven’t checked your connections on step 2.1, please check all your connections and make sure they are plugged securely, and that no pins in any of the connectors are bent, and no mud or moisture has entered connector. (see our post on waterproofing BBSxx for future reference, highly recommended)

If you are using the dpc-14 make sure your plugs are not reversed. see this post for details

Still no luck?

Ok, you don’t have the spare LCD to swap and all the connections are good, pins are straight, sensors are unplugged.

We will bypass the LCD, if you are uncomfortable doing this please contact us for help.

If you have a bafang programming cable see the video below as this is the easiest way to bypass display.

1)Remove the battery
2)Unplug the sensors (brake speed and gear) they should already be unplugged anyways!
3)Unplug the LCD
4) Make a jumper out of a multi strand wire.. anything small enough to fit over one pin on the harness (like 20 ish AWG), please see the 3 pictures below.

. Jump the P+ and PL pins with the jumper
Don’t force the jumper in too much, if the insulation of the cable is too stiff, you can heat the tip of the wire with a flame to soften the insulation, it should slip right on it.
5) Once the jumper is in place and you tripped check you jumped the right pins, make sure the bike is on a rack (or rear wheel off the ground or chain removed) and the throttle is not stuck in "full throttle".
6) Put back the battery in (switch in the battery to ON if you have one)
7)Test the throttle, if the motor moves, the LCD will need to be replaced, if not it's probably either the main harness, the controller or motor.

3) is it the main harness?

First off make sure the harness is actually plugged in when trying to power it on

Inspect the full harness for signs of wear, hits, crushing, cuts hard bends... it could very well be the source of the issue.

You could try to test the continuity pin by pin (using the wiring diagram shown up)
You can try to test of you have the 5V on pin Uncategorized Groups to ground
You can try to test if you have full voltage of the battery on P+ (pin 1) to ground
But sometimes cable will pass the continuity test and still give you trouble, so I recommend having a spare! So order one with the controller or LCD you are about to replace.

For random display shutoffs check to make sure the speedo sensor is correctly installed with the correct distance. If you are not sure if it is correctly installed please check this documentation

If it turns on but you have error 30, you may have pinched wiring harness, see below pictures for an example.

4) Is it your controller?

After troubleshooting all of the above its time to turn your attention to the controller. The controller is the most likely candidate once the easy things above are checked off. The controller is the most common part that we have go bad on the Bafang BBSHD.

The good news is replacing the controller is an easy task and does not require taking the drive off the bike. IT should take you no longer than 30 minutes to switch out the controller.

Before getting replacement controller, first remove the old controller carefully and check the connections, especially the phase wire connectors. Then plug the connectors back in and try the motor again.
See how to do that here:

Replacing the BBSHD controller

Installing the BBS02 controller. More than half the time when a controller goes bad its because these connectors have just come loose. Remove the connections and make sure they are tightly plugged back in...and then try to power the drive again. You can do this with the controller dismantled as long as you are careful and apply easy throttle.

If a loose connection turns out to be your issue make sure the connector has not fried. Loose connections sometimes cause connectors to heat up and fry. Also consider using shrink wrap to hold your connectors tight.

Broken phase connector? . Read more on this issue here on Endless-sphere forums.

Edge Cases: In a few instances the drive would only spin if the pas circuit board is replaced. On these drive pedal assist and throttle would not work until replaced. If you are trying to diagnose a drive that powers on but does not spin, try to unplug pas connector (throttle will work when unplugged)

If all fails, I would recommend going over all the steps again before moving over to a motor replacement, the motor itself rarely dies completely.

5) Is it your motor core?

It's possible that the motor core overheated and the insulation on the stator winding has failed and the motor shorted, in a situation like this it's very easy to tell, the windings wont be all copper colored they will be all dark or partially dark. If it's the case then you simply need a new core. BE careful next time no to lug the motor (low RPM very high load).

Motor core removal
Ok so you removed the controller, If you have version A controller (andersons connectors) you can remove the connector plastic cover, this will be easier to work on the core side as you will be able to remove the grommet and completely detach the core from the motor casing. I do not recommend removing the spade connectors (Version B). There is a guide on how to remove the Andersons plastic cover. Click link here (about in the middle of the document) Flip the motor and remove the hex bolts, and pry the case open with a flat head, work your way around it and be careful not to rip or damage the paper gasket as they are not always available. If you brake it (like I did) you can fix it with silicone.
NOTE: be careful when working around the printed circuit board (PCB) on the motor core, this PCB is the hall sensor board and if you break it you will probably need a new motor core

Example of a burnt core -----------------------------------------------------------Example of a good core:

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