"Other unusual settings:
- Keep Current = 100%, effectively disabling the cadence limit. This way, the "top speed" of a given PAS level can be quite varied, via gearing + how fast I wanna spin, moment to moment.
- Start Degree Signal No = 14. In other words, I have to complete more than 1/2 crank revolution at a sensible cadence before the motor kicks in. This way, when the flow of traffic hits a stoplight or other bottleneck, I can freely poke my way between cars, downshift, etc without worrying about sudden takeoff. The controller doesn't let us customize what "sensible" means, but in practice it seems about right, perhaps 15RPM. If I need a quick takeoff, that's what the throttle is for.
- PAS Start Current = 30%+, Ramp Mode = sharper than most. Because my Current Limits are much lower than standard programs, and PAS doesn't even register until I'm well under way, I don't need as much "acceleration smoothing" to maintain a comfy jerk-free onset. Also, since I shift gears frequently (FAR more than I would in a "cruise control" style of travel), it's important to me that the motor resumes quickly after shifts.
- For the same reason, Stop Delay / Decay are set as low as possible. I want the motor to quit immediately when I stop pedalling or touch a shift lever. In practice, this doesn't feel any less smooth -- the bike has plenty of momentum, and the freewheel has way less drag than any of the expensive hub-motor bikes I tried. You can feel the cutoff, of course, but it doesn't annoy me at all, because it's matching my intent (unlike motor cutoffs due to Keep Current or Speed Limit).
In sum, I'm essentially defining "PAS level" as how soon I'm willing to drain the battery. Such levels can be coarser -- I keep my display in either 3-increment or 5-increment mode, never the full 9. In-flight adjustments are kept to a minimum. If I had to respond to ever-changing traffic speeds by clicking a fiddly thumb button a half-dozen times, I would probably be dead by now ;-)
Furthermore, I'm making an explicit choice to use throttle for exceptional cases (eg takeoffs), rather than for cruising. Having to manually throttle out of a hard stop (due to Start Degree) isn't ideal, but it's over & done in seconds. Whereas in cruise-focused programs, I'd have to set & hold a throttle position any time I wanted to exceed an artificial Speed Limit (or worse, fiddle with the display buttons)."
I climb out of the saddle on my normals but the ebike feels odd out of the saddle even with these settings
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