Pedals spin but do not move bike. Throttle still works perfectly fine. Blown clutch. Clutch needs to be replaced (easy repair). Note: you may want to replace the steel gear clutch sits in at same time, sometimes when clutch fails it can wear down the teeth on the steel gear causing it to not connect with the clutch even when clutch is replaced
BBSHD is louder than when it was new. Consider taking apart and adding a high quality Mobile 28 grease.See this video to hear a comparison of how much difference some fresh grease can make
Getting an error code but the bike is running normally. (read this article on error codes and what they mean)
Display wont turn on but bike still runs. Your display has gone dead and needs replaced. You can use some the testing here to help you out.
BBSHD is making funny clunking noise. It is time to take it apart and see what is going on inside.Luna greasing guide here
BBSHD Is making an awful grinding noise. You have probably fried your nylon gear. This is rare occurrence on BBSHD but will happen if you run it too hot and in the wrong gear. Use the greasing guide to replace the nylon gear. Luna greasing guide here
PAS not working properly. Try reprogramming (see this resource) which usually fixes this. Otherwise a new controller is probably the issue.
Speedo not working? See speedometer setup and troubleshooting guide here
Chain falling off often. Chain alignement issue. Consider going with an aftermarket chain ring such as the Eclipse or Lekkie which will give you more offset and better
chain line.
BBSHD sprocket rubbing against the frame. Installation issue. Read this article on getting the bbshd to fit. Or try a smaller chain ring, or use spacers somewhere.
Chain skipping. Skipping can be due to a lot of things that happen during regular use. An old chain, a chain with a link that is not bending properly, a bent derailer, a derailer that has not been tuned/indexed, a bent/missing tooth on the chainring, or perhaps (although less likely) something in the motor itself. Anything besides the motor can be handled by any local bike shop and is more or less just part of owning a bicycle. For more info see this link
Ticking noise: This could be caused by several things whether internally (such as the clutch), a missing/bent tooth on chainring, or something hitting the crankarm. For example if the plastic film was left on the motor it could peel over time and touch the cranks when pedaling, as shown in the picture below.
Start with the easy stuff first. Remove the chain to see if noise remains, then remove the pedals, then remove the cranks (turn the spindle with an adjustable wrench in lieu of the cranks)
Lower power output during winter:
All lithium batteries have greater voltage sag if subjected to very cold temps.
If storing your bike in the cold weather during winter you are going to have less power output because the voltage sag.
If using in snow maybe insulate the pack, and try to store pack indoors.
Click here for more info on freezing weather effects!
Motor rotating after Installation
There can be a couple of reasons why this can happen
1. The Bottom bracket shell is a couple of mm smaller than the BBSHD BB, Fix: add spacers between the triangle plate and motor so there is plenty of thread to tighten the motor to the correct torque.
2. There wasn't enough torque applied at the time of installation. Fix: Re-torque motor to remove movement.
3. The motor maybe hitting the chain-stay on the drive side. Fix: Remove and add shims so the motor clears the chain-stay.
4. Teeth not seated - May need to retighten the lockrings after first ride and next few while the parts are "settling" in
If all else fails you can try reinforcing to the frame using BSB-1 or BSBF-1.
BBSHD runs fine when I lift the back wheel but when I ride the bike, I get power cuts all the time it feels like someone is switching the power on/off/on/off... OR I rode the bike and the power cut but the LCD is still on!
If you just experience power cuts and the LCD/motor stay "ON" :
Look at your brake sensor, if the magnet is too far apart a slight vibration can trigger the sensor and cut the power to the motor, to test, unplug the brake sensor and go for a ride!
A brake sensor can go bad and be stuck in the "brake" position, unplug the brakes sensor and test the bike.
Also a bad gear sensor could also do the same, so unplug it.
Can also be a pinched gear sensor cable, look out for a crushed cable.
If it is running but you have error 30, you may have pinched wiring harness, see below pictures for an example. Typically you do not want to put your main wiring harness in this location because if the motor hits downtube it'll crush the wire:
Crank arms coming loose on Bafang kit
If this has happened then the metal on the crank has likely already deformed from banging up against the spindle to the point that it will not stay tight again. The crank arm will need replaced. Please note that the crank bolts have a specific amount of recommended torque printed directly onto the bolt. If you follow the torque guidelines you should have no problem, though there are aftermarket square taper cranks available if you want cranks with a harder metal (for example for particularly aggressive riding).
See below for a pic of the torque specs listed on the bolt:
Power cuts intermittently
An intermittent problem which occurs at all speed/power levels could be a loose connection or short in throttle, brake cables, gearsensor cable or connectors between controller>motor. A problem that only happens at high load is more likely to be something getting hot. Which could be a high resistance connection or short in the power wiring, or an overheating controller, or an overheating battery.
If it is a hardcase battery, also be sure to check the contacts between case and cradle.
BBSHD is louder than when it was new. Consider taking apart and adding a high quality Mobile 28 grease.See this video to hear a comparison of how much difference some fresh grease can make
Getting an error code but the bike is running normally. (read this article on error codes and what they mean)
Display wont turn on but bike still runs. Your display has gone dead and needs replaced. You can use some the testing here to help you out.
BBSHD is making funny clunking noise. It is time to take it apart and see what is going on inside.Luna greasing guide here
BBSHD Is making an awful grinding noise. You have probably fried your nylon gear. This is rare occurrence on BBSHD but will happen if you run it too hot and in the wrong gear. Use the greasing guide to replace the nylon gear. Luna greasing guide here
PAS not working properly. Try reprogramming (see this resource) which usually fixes this. Otherwise a new controller is probably the issue.
Speedo not working? See speedometer setup and troubleshooting guide here
Chain falling off often. Chain alignement issue. Consider going with an aftermarket chain ring such as the Eclipse or Lekkie which will give you more offset and better
chain line.
BBSHD sprocket rubbing against the frame. Installation issue. Read this article on getting the bbshd to fit. Or try a smaller chain ring, or use spacers somewhere.
Chain skipping. Skipping can be due to a lot of things that happen during regular use. An old chain, a chain with a link that is not bending properly, a bent derailer, a derailer that has not been tuned/indexed, a bent/missing tooth on the chainring, or perhaps (although less likely) something in the motor itself. Anything besides the motor can be handled by any local bike shop and is more or less just part of owning a bicycle. For more info see this link
Ticking noise: This could be caused by several things whether internally (such as the clutch), a missing/bent tooth on chainring, or something hitting the crankarm. For example if the plastic film was left on the motor it could peel over time and touch the cranks when pedaling, as shown in the picture below.
Start with the easy stuff first. Remove the chain to see if noise remains, then remove the pedals, then remove the cranks (turn the spindle with an adjustable wrench in lieu of the cranks)
Lower power output during winter:
All lithium batteries have greater voltage sag if subjected to very cold temps.
If storing your bike in the cold weather during winter you are going to have less power output because the voltage sag.
If using in snow maybe insulate the pack, and try to store pack indoors.
Click here for more info on freezing weather effects!
Motor rotating after Installation
There can be a couple of reasons why this can happen
1. The Bottom bracket shell is a couple of mm smaller than the BBSHD BB, Fix: add spacers between the triangle plate and motor so there is plenty of thread to tighten the motor to the correct torque.
2. There wasn't enough torque applied at the time of installation. Fix: Re-torque motor to remove movement.
3. The motor maybe hitting the chain-stay on the drive side. Fix: Remove and add shims so the motor clears the chain-stay.
4. Teeth not seated - May need to retighten the lockrings after first ride and next few while the parts are "settling" in
If all else fails you can try reinforcing to the frame using BSB-1 or BSBF-1.
BBSHD runs fine when I lift the back wheel but when I ride the bike, I get power cuts all the time it feels like someone is switching the power on/off/on/off... OR I rode the bike and the power cut but the LCD is still on!
If you just experience power cuts and the LCD/motor stay "ON" :
Look at your brake sensor, if the magnet is too far apart a slight vibration can trigger the sensor and cut the power to the motor, to test, unplug the brake sensor and go for a ride!
A brake sensor can go bad and be stuck in the "brake" position, unplug the brakes sensor and test the bike.
Also a bad gear sensor could also do the same, so unplug it.
Can also be a pinched gear sensor cable, look out for a crushed cable.
If it is running but you have error 30, you may have pinched wiring harness, see below pictures for an example. Typically you do not want to put your main wiring harness in this location because if the motor hits downtube it'll crush the wire:
Crank arms coming loose on Bafang kit
If this has happened then the metal on the crank has likely already deformed from banging up against the spindle to the point that it will not stay tight again. The crank arm will need replaced. Please note that the crank bolts have a specific amount of recommended torque printed directly onto the bolt. If you follow the torque guidelines you should have no problem, though there are aftermarket square taper cranks available if you want cranks with a harder metal (for example for particularly aggressive riding).
See below for a pic of the torque specs listed on the bolt:
Power cuts intermittently
An intermittent problem which occurs at all speed/power levels could be a loose connection or short in throttle, brake cables, gearsensor cable or connectors between controller>motor. A problem that only happens at high load is more likely to be something getting hot. Which could be a high resistance connection or short in the power wiring, or an overheating controller, or an overheating battery.
If it is a hardcase battery, also be sure to check the contacts between case and cradle.