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    BBSHD Troubleshooting Random issues on unit still moving

    Pedals spin but do not move bike. Throttle still works perfectly fine. Blown clutch. Clutch needs to be replaced (easy repair). Note: you may want to replace the steel gear clutch sits in at same time, sometimes when clutch fails it can wear down the teeth on the steel gear causing it to not connect with the clutch even when clutch is replaced

    BBSHD is louder than when it was new. Consider taking apart and adding a high quality Mobile 28 grease.See this video to hear a comparison of how much difference some fresh grease can make


    Getting an error code but the bike is running normally. (read this article on error codes and what they mean)

    Display wont turn on but bike still runs. Your display has gone dead and needs replaced. You can use some the testing here to help you out.

    BBSHD is making funny clunking noise. It is time to take it apart and see what is going on inside.Luna greasing guide here

    BBSHD Is making an awful grinding noise. You have probably fried your nylon gear. This is rare occurrence on BBSHD but will happen if you run it too hot and in the wrong gear. Use the greasing guide to replace the nylon gear. Luna greasing guide here

    PAS not working properly. Try reprogramming (see this resource) which usually fixes this. Otherwise a new controller is probably the issue.

    Chain falling off often. Chain alignement issue. Consider going with an aftermarket chain ring such as the Eclipse or Lekkie which will give you more offset and better
    chain line.

    BBSHD sprocket rubbing against the frame. Installation issue. Read this article on getting the bbshd to fit. Or try a smaller chain ring, or use spacers somewhere.

    Chain skipping. Skipping can be due to a lot of things that happen during regular use. An old chain, a chain with a link that is not bending properly, a bent derailer, a derailer that has not been tuned/indexed, a bent/missing tooth on the chainring, or perhaps (although less likely) something in the motor itself. Anything besides the motor can be handled by any local bike shop and is more or less just part of owning a bicycle. For more info see this link

    Ticking noise: This could be caused by several things whether internally (such as the clutch), a missing/bent tooth on chainring, or something hitting the crankarm. For example if the plastic film was left on the motor it could peel over time and touch the cranks when pedaling, as shown in the picture below.Click image for larger version  Name:	2018-07-10 16_14_39.png Views:	1 Size:	610.0 KB ID:	68991

    Start with the easy stuff first. Remove the chain to see if noise remains, then remove the pedals, then remove the cranks (turn the spindle with an adjustable wrench in lieu of the cranks)

    Lower power output during winter:
    All lithium batteries have greater voltage sag if subjected to very cold temps.
    If storing your bike in the cold weather during winter you are going to have less power output because the voltage sag.
    If using in snow maybe insulate the pack, and try to store pack indoors.


    Click here for more info on freezing weather effects!

    Motor rotating after Installation

    T
    here can be a couple of reasons why this can happen
    1. The Bottom bracket shell is a couple of mm smaller than the BBSHD BB, Fix: add spacers between the triangle plate and motor so there is plenty of thread to tighten the motor to the correct torque.
    2. There wasn't enough torque applied at the time of installation. Fix: Re-torque motor to remove movement.
    3. The motor maybe hitting the chain-stay on the drive side. Fix: Remove and add shims so the motor clears the chain-stay.
    4. Teeth not seated - May need to retighten the lockrings after first ride and next few while the parts are "settling" in

    If all else fails you can try reinforcing to the frame using BSB-1 or BSBF-1.

    BBSHD runs fine when I lift the back wheel but when I ride the bike, I get power cuts all the time it feels like someone is switching the power on/off/on/off... OR I rode the bike and the power cut but the LCD is still on!

    If you just experience power cuts and the LCD/motor stay "ON" :

    Look at your brake sensor, if the magnet is too far apart a slight vibration can trigger the sensor and cut the power to the motor, to test, unplug the brake sensor and go for a ride!
    A brake sensor can go bad and be stuck in the "brake" position, unplug the brakes sensor and test the bike.
    Also a bad gear sensor could also do the same, so unplug it.

    Can also be a pinched gear sensor cable, look out for a crushed cable.

    If it is running but you have error 30, you may have pinched wiring harness, see below pictures for an example. Typically you do not want to put your main wiring harness in this location because if the motor hits downtube it'll crush the wire:
    Click image for larger version  Name:	image_7474.jpg Views:	1 Size:	328.2 KB ID:	68995Click image for larger version  Name:	image_7475.jpg Views:	1 Size:	154.2 KB ID:	68994
    Crank arms coming loose on Bafang kit

    If this has happened then the metal on the crank has likely already deformed from banging up against the spindle to the point that it will not stay tight again. The crank arm will need replaced. Please note that the crank bolts have a specific amount of recommended torque printed directly onto the bolt. If you follow the torque guidelines you should have no problem, though there are aftermarket square taper cranks available if you want cranks with a harder metal (for example for particularly aggressive riding).
    See below for a pic of the torque specs listed on the bolt:
    Click image for larger version  Name:	crank bolt torque specs.JPEG Views:	1 Size:	140.2 KB ID:	76087
    Last edited by Sebz; 07-07-2017, 10:03 AM.

    #2
    Power cuts on and off during a ride. Sometimes a press on the power switch will bring power back but only for a minute . Sometimes power goes on and off without input.
    Where should I start my search father culprit? All connections have been examined and seem fine. Bike has performed without a flaw for 9 months. Now this. Suggestions?

    Comment


      #3
      An intermittent problem which occurs at all speed/power levels could be a loose connection or short in throttle, brake cables, gearsensor cable or connectors between controller>motor. A problem that only happens at high load is more likely to be something getting hot. Which could be a high resistance connection or short in the power wiring, or an overheating controller, or an overheating battery.

      If it is a hardcase battery, also be sure to check the contacts between case and cradle.

      Comment


        #4
        Just started yesterday, when using the throttle in PAS 0. The pedals spin with power as in you can't stop them. Let off the throttle and then they can be easily stopped Same issue with PAS. You cannot stop the pedal from pedaling without slowing to a stop or cutting to PAS 0. Usually the bike will freewheel when you pedal in reverse. There is resistance now. I changed the clutch and it is still doing the same thing. clutch was brand new. I did put a little tri flow on the pawls prior to installing and greased the primary again. i will open up again tomorrow.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by New Mariner View Post
          Just started yesterday, when using the throttle in PAS 0. The pedals spin with power as in you can't stop them. Let off the throttle and then they can be easily stopped Same issue with PAS. You cannot stop the pedal from pedaling without slowing to a stop or cutting to PAS 0. Usually the bike will freewheel when you pedal in reverse. There is resistance now. I changed the clutch and it is still doing the same thing. clutch was brand new. I did put a little tri flow on the pawls prior to installing and greased the primary again. i will open up again tomorrow.
          Figured it out. One washer too many on the crank set.

          Comment


            #6
            Hello all, I have just over 1,000 miles (bought 3/31/18, so been about 3 months) on a BBSHD used delivering Uber Eats on my cargo bike. I climb ALOT of really steep hills, but since I don't have more than a 52V 11.5Ah Shark Pack (PF) AND I had anticipated having a much larger pack at that time, because of the hot-rod settings, I keep the power levels no higher than PAS 3, and only climbing hills, most of the time PAS 2. The motor seems to slip internally, in almost two years of riding several BBS02's I have not experienced this, it doesn't seem to slip under high load fortunately, most times I am just riding on the flat cruising when it happens. Any suggestions? I just received a gasket for the primary gear cover, going to grease it up with Mobile 28 tomorrow also. Thanks!

            Comment


              #7
              Only slipping you might see in the motor itself would be possible partial failure of the one way roller bearings within the nylon gear. This is rare so you may want to check the bike drivetrain first (for example check chainline, tune derailer and check the ratcheting mechanism in the rear hub) but if you are already opening it you may want to swap the nylon gear while in there just in case.

              Comment


                #8
                Good call, didn't know that about the nylon gear, will be ordering one ASAP and holding off on the clutch thanks! Will be trying out this adapter too instead of a Lekkie, I like the idea of being able to use my own 5 bolt chain rings to fine tune it, I have a NuVinci N171b (one of the 2nd run early models, tough as nails, just heavy, but I wish they still made them! I would buy more) and I did notice that my chain-line is a little off, but it's never had issues throwing a chain, and I have a second rear cog on the NuVinci that i can use that would clear up the chain line a bit, but I wonder if I shouldn't also look into a metal gear to replace the nylon?
                Providers of quality ebikes, electric bike batteries, motors and components at affordable pricing.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Ah that changes things.. nuvinci is known for slipping when putting too much power through it. Karl wrote about this in his article on using nuvinci with bbsxx. So it is probably more likely to be the nuvinci rather than the motor.

                  https://electricbike-blog.com/2016/0...s-of-them-all/

                  Comment


                    #10
                    P.S.

                    Sorry I was looking at a different link, where Carl used a N171 hmmm ... but it seems your link is focused more on the N380?

                    Here is the link I was looking at:

                    https://electricbike-blog.com/2016/0...at-2400-watts/

                    I have been using NuVinci N171b (The N171a is the previous model, more of a prototype, not sure he had the N171a or b) since 2011, it's not the hub, he probably exceeded the RPM's (if he was using a cyclone most likely he did) if it's at too high of RPM that the NuVinchi starts to slip. The other thing, is you DO NOT need a freewheel, the hub will internally freewheel, I have been using straight cogs with an adapter from Station Inc. that has a 23T cog welded onto the back of a NuVinci freewheel adapter, I also have a slightly smaller track cog attached (I forget maybe 20T), so no need to use a high end FW like Eno ir White Industries. : )

                    I have powered my N171b with a Cromotor (Hubzilla) DD hub motor as mid-drive at 72V for over a year on my stretched cruiser with 150lb cargo trailer with no issues, but that is a 9kv motor, so very low RPM's. Still had a top speed of 43 MPH, pretty fun, but I found that 3000W was probably more than I needed most of the time, and I think the BBSHD with Luda at 2500W might be perfect. B-)

                    I agree though, the newer NuVinci's really aren't as strong as they should be, I am looking forward to when Continental makes a Ebike mid-drive with NuVinci as transmission! That could allow you to set the cadence for your pedaling and have the motor go to a set speed, much like the Harmony Auto Shifting kit, I never did play around with one of those, wish I had! :D

                    The pulley system is a little difficult to learn at first, but after rebuilding a couple, it's pretty simple, just do everything step-by step and you won't have any trouble. My first two came pre-assembled, so it wasn't any trouble at all.

                    You can shift under power, but it's tricky, just something you learn to get a feel for, and it's much easier to just pause on the power, and shift like you would with most anything, the Harmony system shifts that hub fine under power, but I imagine it probably momentarily interrupts it.
                    Last edited by LI-ghtcycle; 07-01-2018, 11:42 AM.

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