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Wiring, testing and troubleshooting the Cyclone

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    Wiring, testing and troubleshooting the Cyclone

    This is a wiring diagram for the Cyclone stock controller, the colours are respected but it's possible that the accessories are not exactly like the diagram but the connectors are still plug and play and identified. If you wish to modify or use your own accessories this can help you!

    Click image for larger version  Name:	CYCLONE HARNESS 1.png Views:	2 Size:	248.3 KB ID:	57909

    This pic from the manufacturer shows correct wiring for the Cyclone.
    Most of this is straightforward.

    However, make note of the green/yellow wires coming from controller to motor. The wires do not match up by color as you would expect.
    This goes green to orange and yellow to green. Rather than what you might expect, green>green and yellow>orange.
    The connector can only be connected one way though, and this pic confirms this is correct.

    SUPPORT NOTES: Newer generations of controller have a slightly different wiring; the red wire going from the hall sensor connector the throttle switch is now going straight from the controller to the throttle switch 2 pin connector.

    Also keep in mind that when wiring the Oro throttle the wires are also different colors, but still plug into the same place.
    Using the reverse function :

    if you short out the 2 pin of the reverse connector it will make the motor turn CCW but at a very low RPM.

    So if your plan is to run the cyclone on the left side and make it turn CCW, it would be better to swap the phase wires (blue / yellow) and the hall sensor wires (green / blue) this would give you the full power in reverse.

    Using the PAS

    It's either the pedal assist or the throttle, you cannot have both system, so if you would like ot use the throttle you will have to disconnect the pedal assist sensor.

    For the phase wires, wiring ASI to Cyclone and Cyclone mini see below. For ASI to Mini you may need to change the connectors or hardwire it.

    ASI ---------- Mini Cyclone
    Phase Yellow -- Phase Black
    Phase Green -- Phase White
    Phase Blue -- Phase Red

    Click image for larger version  Name:	c95a1756-02f3-45b6-a008-6fc69040aadf.png.jpg Views:	1 Size:	304.6 KB ID:	66302

    Also see this link:

    Howto: basic cyclone wiring with pictures
    Last edited by Sebz; 02-12-2018, 02:14 PM.


    Here is a series of videos on how to troubleshoot electrical problems on a cyclone motor and controller. For battery issues please click here

    Step 1 inspecting and basic testing.

    Step #2 Testing the controller for blown mosfets :

    Hall sensor issue:

    Part 1: testing hall sensor

    Part 2: Opening the motor :

    Part 3: Replacing the hall sensors :

    Part 4: Assembly :

    Final testing once fixed:


      In connecting my Cyclone controller, I was quite surprised that nobody has posted what color wires are specific to each of the three power modes (Eco/Normal/High). Soooooooo....... here is what mine looks like. My kit included the black, 30A controller with waterproof connections. As you can see, the connector is clearly labeled.

      Click image for larger version  Name:	cylone3speedconnector.jpg Views:	0 Size:	293.9 KB ID:	99916

      The center BLACK wire is the common.
      The PINK wire is the high speed signal.
      The BLUE wire is the low speed signal.

      I used a motorcycle left bar control unit, and connected to the signal switch wiring as follows.

      Signalling left bridges BLUE/BLACK wires, and you have Eco mode on the controller.
      Center position leaves all wires disconnected, and you have Normal mode on the controller.
      Signalling right bridges PINK/BLACK wires, and you have High Speed mode on the controller.
      Last edited by DaHose; 01-16-2020, 10:16 AM.


      • Sebz
        Sebz commented
        Editing a comment
        Thank you! I totally missed the colour code of the 3 speed switch.

      Very helpful!
      What kind of glue is used to secure the hall sensors? The motor gets hot so I wouldn't think a hot glue would work (it would melt).


      • tklop
        tklop commented
        Editing a comment
        You're right. Hot-glue would not be a good choice.

        "Superglue" (often called 502 glue) is what's normally used. Suring--my motor's manufacturer--specifically recommended 502 glue for hall-sensor replacement.

        Yes--your motor will get warm, but it shouldn't be allowed to get too hot, or remain too hot for too long (some motors come with temp-sensors, some even have auto-shutdown features to prevent overheating).

        But if you're operating your motor within manufacturer-recommended parameters, superglue will be adequate to withstand those temperatures.

        Best of luck with your project!

        Last edited by tklop; 01-01-2021, 03:43 AM.

      • PDub
        PDub commented
        Editing a comment
        Thanks tklop!

      I need a clearer picture of this wiring diagram, so that I can translate it over to another controller. Any way to find out where each wire goes to? Thank you.


        You can click on that first diagram and zoom way into in in your browser. Then you can read all the labels cleanly. The image of the ASI controller connection to the motor is clear enough that you can look up the ASI controller wires and be sure of which field wire is which. My update a few posts above, makes it clear how the PAS, and different power modes wire up.

        Seems like you should have all the info. you need in the posts above. Is there a specific controller you are working with? If you let us know, maybe someone can help you with that model specific info.