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**Sebz** · 08-25-2021, 02:15 PM

Error codes, If you see and error code on your display please refer to this list.

NOTE: this list is ONLY for the stock controller and the Ludicrous V1 (found on the x1).

For the X2 with Ludicrous V2 you need to check the M600 manual on page 18 Click here.

The V2 features data logging when combined with the VESC app so this is the best thing to do any troubleshooting!!! GEt a log of the ride and email it to us and we will be able to assist you!

Here is a small video to explain how to use the log feature, if you don't have the VES then I'd recommend to intall it first by looking at the manual here

But here is a screen cap of it, the error codes are similar

Some of these errors are just a fault that can get cleared off with a simple pause (like over heat) some may require you to restart, some might need more than just a restart.

Here is a few explanation on the common error codes

Error 4, throttle is likely broken, unplug to see if the error clears up, if it does then replace it
Error 10, 14, 15, this can happen if you lug, abuse the motor, specially the Ludicrous version, avoid climbing at full throttle in a high gear (small cog) *see note below*
Error 12 possibly a bad connection or a controller issue, please check the battery connection up to the motor and also unplug your main harness and plug it back in (see post below on how to plug in the motor correctly.
Error 21, speedo sensor alignment (see picture below on how to align) speedo damaged, speedo unplugged (there is an extension on the speedo sensor so make sure to check both connections), Note: the motor will shut down after a few seconds if you get error 21. UPDATE: IF you don't have any speed reading (after adjusting it) and don't get any shutdowns while riding then it's likely a controller fault, please contact Luna with your order number.
Error 25, not that this is common but it's possible that the sensor is out of calibration or that the controller or sensor is damage, if you have a BESST you might try to calibrate it, it's worth a try if you have one. IF you don't have one you would have to send the motor to the shop.
Error 30, IF you are experiencing cut outs, error 30 or complete shutdown please click this link or scroll down to the wiring section, the vast majority of error 30 are the connection of the wiring that is damaged, start by inspecting all connections as per the guide below and then replace the main harness (click here) You can skip step Forum and just do Home and General
Error 25 and E30 on the M600 with V2 ludicrous controller (for Nov 2021 bikes up to June 1st 2022) the chrome switch assembly must be bypassed, please click this link.

The M600 is a small motor, very small in fact but packs white a punch with a V2 controller so it’s quite normal for the motor to get really hot, specially if you compare it to a larger motor (like a Bafang Ultra or Bafang BBSHD). Same goes for a big brand name motor that is as big as the M600 but has 3X-4X less power.

So avoid using high pedal assist level (PAS) or heavy throttling for a long time while climbing or even on a flat road but just in a wrong gear (AKA lugging the motor) or you will get the motor and the controller really hot quite fast. Once the motor or controller temperature get hot the power will drop , and will continue to drop unit the temperate stop rising. If you keep going the motor and controller will shut down and you will get Error code 14 or 15. So if you feel that power drop, then it’s time to let it cool down a little, Lower the assist, pedal harder, change gears to a higher pedal cadence and your motor and also your battery will thank you.

Speedometer alignment for error 21:

Also please insect both speedo meter connectors (2 red arrows), one under the chainstay and the other is on the left side of the motor. (Scroll down to step# 3 on how to do it)

**Sebz** · 08-25-2021, 04:27 PM

Display does not power up
Display powers up but shuts down right away.
Motor & display shuts down while riding
Error 30 (for error 30 only do step 1 & 3)

1) Display connections:

2x connections that goes into the back of the display needs to be shoved in really hard, you should hear and feel a click or a pop, if you are having trouble turning it on be sure to check this and the other connectors. Recommended to unplug the connector before firmly plugging it back in.

On the DPC-240, you will need to push them in hard and make sure that they are perfectly aligned, there should only be a 2mm gap between the display bracket and the line on the connectors.

The gap between the bracket and the connector line should be 2mm, if it's not 2mm then take a long nose plier and grab the connector body and push on it (click here to see) . DO NO PUSH ON THE WIRES AT THE TIP OF THE CONNECTORS.

2) The battery

The battery is not the Home culprit but you should rule it out first, the terminals can be loose, the connector unplugged and such.

For the X1 battery
Showing a standard led power readout, on/off button, and barrel charge port. Make sure that the power button is pressed in and lighting up. Remove the battery and inspect the terminals. for advanced battery troubleshooting on the X1 please click here to visit the x1 manual

For the X2 or the Z1,

The fisrt run of the X2 and Z1 had the chrome swtich on the side of the frame functionnal and for these you cannot measure the voltage the same way, So since this is a model specific battery please click this link or picture below and follow the troubleshooting Step # 1 and 2 And come back here for the rest of the troubleshooting. You can also learn how the battery power switch works in that link. If you want you can bypass the chrome switch it's highly recommend as it's prone to fail. Click this link and scroll to the 3rd and 4th video :

If you have bought a bike after June 2022 then the switch is bypassed and you can measure the voltage straight off the battery,

3) The motor main connections.

Remove the 2 allen head bolts that secures the bash-guard under the motor. the remove the 2 Philips head on the front the guard. On the left side of the motor you will find a plastic plate with 3 torx T10 screws, remove that plate to expose the connections. No need to remove the motor!

IF the system still does not power at all after all the steps and you have the correct voltage then it's possible that you have a bad display, main harness or a controller problem.

On the far left you have the main harness multi pin connector, the middle (purple) is unused on the right one is the speedometer. Please check these 2 it's possible that one is halfway out an giving issues. Unplug, then press them in firmly, like the display connections. For an example of this solution see this page.

On on the far right you have the battery main power lead (yellow XT60), you can unplug this one and measure the voltage from the battery to be sure that you don't have a bad connection. With the power button to ON, you should be measure anything from 38V to 54.6V. (Again you don't have to remove the motor from the bike you can do all this with the motor on the bike)

Tip: You can use a long nose plier covered with tape to push in the connectors into the motor., The connector should have a 4mm gap between the case and the connector line.

4) The battery connector is loose (yellow XT60)?

That can happen after a few unplugging and plugging back. here the trick to make them tight again, take a very small philips head screw driver and use it to spread the male prongs on the motor, alternatively you can use a large pointy toothpick, a punch, Just need to spread it apart a little

#5 Optional step, testing if the controller on board fuse it ok:

If you want to take it a step further, you can test the controller fuse. You do not need to remove the motor all you need is to measure the voltage from the XT60:

Last step, swapping parts:

IF you test the battery and you know it works and checked all the connections then it can be the display, the main harness or the controller. If you would like to avoid removing the motor and send it back to the shop, we recommend you to order a spare main harness and display. The display takes seconds to swap but the main harness is not so simple .. but you can totally runt he spare main harness outside of the frame for testing purposes. If it's indeed the main harness then follow this easy trick :

How to fish a new main harness in a X1/X2 frame or any internally routed frame.

With the motor fully removed , tie dental floss or shift cable (or any flexible small cable) to old harness at display / throttle plug , pull from bottom and remove old harness leaving guide wire in the frame . Carefully tape or tie guide wire to new display /throttle plug and push / pull gently til plugs come out of hole, be careful not to pull too hard. The junction where the throttle /display split it too big to fit thru frame hole so it stays inside the frame.

For the X2 there is an aluminum plate under the battery, you will have to remove that plate to fish in a new harness. A video will come soon.

New M600 harness can be bought here: CLICK ME

**Sebz** · 08-25-2021, 04:41 PM

Display lights up but motor is stuttering/hesitating or it run very poorly and gets hot really fast?

This is possibly due to the magnet at the tip of the rotor shaft that came loose. This magnet is a special magnet, the polarity is very different than your regular fridge magnet, it's got lateral poles so when the motor is turning the controller can pickup the changing magnetic field and know when to send the power. If the magnet has moved then the controller will run very poorly.

To fix this you need a BESST tool, you will need to pull out the controller to unplug the 3 pin large XT connector (blue, yellow, green wires) and the temp sensor connector (2 black wires with white connector). Then you will have to remove the motor core out from the left side of the motor casing (3x Torx head).
At the tip of the shaft you will see a magnet, if it's missing look inside the motor it's not far. Glue that magnet in place using super glue, if it's greased up you will have to clean it good before applying glue.

In the picture below you see the 2 connectors that you need to unplug and also you can see the magnet at the tip of the rotor that has moved out of it's place.

Complete video on how to open the motor and fix the magnet

Next step will be to re-install the core and and then calibrate the motor using the BESST

This is the video on how to use the BESST. WARNING: Do not plug the display into the BESST while calibrating the motor like you see in the video.

Alternate video on how to calibrate the motor:

If you can't do all this email us a support@Lunacycle.com and we will help you.

**Sebz** · 08-25-2021, 06:21 PM

Motor removal and installation

This is a Luna X1 bike, same as the X2, yours might be different (like on a Luna Babe) but the mounting is the same on all the frames using the M600 motor mount.

You will need a Metric hex key set (AKA Allen head)
A T10 Torx screwdriver
13mm wrench or thin walled 13mm socket
Optional : a large flat head screwdriver or a chainring tool (to hold the back of the chainring bolt)

Motor removal

Motor installation

Motor installation on the Lune X2, showing where the wires should go.

Support note: You really have to be careful about the antenna on the side of the controller (on a Ludicrous V2 from November 2021 up to may 2022), the best way would be to tape it over just incase if you break it while manipulating the motor. All recent motor do not have an exposed antenna but a hidden antenna.

See antenna on the side sticking out on previous version of the V2

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Chainring Spider removal:

To remove the chainring bracket (AKA Spider) from the motor (Or if you must open the motor for service):
This is recessed so a typical ring spanner will not work. A socket style bottom bracket tool for screw in bearing cups does the job. This tool will work: Bike Hand YC-29BB-2A as well as YC-29BB. Bafang socket tools will also work. A chain whip is needed to hold the chainring when removing the locking nut. The lockring is reverse or right hand-threaded, so you must turn it clockwise to remove it. Please note unless otherwise stated this step is not necessary for sending in the motor to the shop for inspection or repair work.

**Sebz** · 08-25-2021, 06:48 PM

Mechanical problems / noises

Intro to the M600

The M600 is not the most silent mid-drive motor out there (if you are used to a BBSHD of a factory big brand 500W middrive unit then it's pretty apparent) but adding the silent gear (PEEK plastic) does help out tremendously .. that being said it's still not the most silent motor. Now if you are inquiring why the motor is louder when you lift up the rear and let it rip unloaded, rest assured it's normal it is louder unloaded than when you actually ride the bike. As you ride it during the first 100 miles or so it's possible that the noise level change a little as the gears gets broken-in and grease shifts around. So give it at least 100 miles or so before thinking or opening the motor or sending it in for repairs.

WARNING: If your bike is equipped with a V2 controller (from late 2021 to Nov 2022) please be careful when you remove the controller, the controller is bigger than a stock controller and it's easy to damage the sides of the circuits if you're not careful. Physical damage to the controller is not covered under warranty. The Newer revision of the controller is slightly smaller so it's as easy as a stock Bafang controller. If you would like to see how to remove and install a V2 controller, please click this link.

To open up the motor you will need:

An external snap ring plier
Torx and hex set
Flat head screwdriver
Deep socket too to remove the chainring spider adapter, we sell this socket tool for cheaper (click here or the socket picture below) , but if we run out, Bikehand branded deep socket works fine and you can find it on Amazon, Ebay or Aliexpress

Model: YC-29BB-2A Or the YC-29BB

Just remember that the locknut is reverse threaded, so turn clockwise to remove. The trick is to leave the chain on the sprocket and hold the tire (or lock in the rear brakes) and loosen up the nut. See 3rd video below on how to remove it.

Over the years we have seen about everything that can go wrong on these motors and I will cover the 4 most frequent mechanical problems.

Here are the 4 most frequents symptoms:

1) My crank arms are spinning freely in both directions, disconnected from the chainring and motor (intermittent or not)
FIX: You will need to replace the final drive gear, the clutch inside is broken

2) My cranks arms are stuck to the motor, I cannot coast
FIX: You will need to replace the final drive gear

3) I hear the motor spinning and grinding and the bike does not move
FIX: If you cannot back up the bike without some effort or not one bit then it's the silent gear that needs to be replaced, if you can back the bike just fine then it's likely the mid gear/clutch that is slipping

4)The motor sometimes engages, sometimes it spins freely inside and does not engage.
FIX: If you can reverse the bike easily and there is no grinding noise and sometimes after a rest the motor does work, then it's a mid gear/clutch.

5) Motor creaks when I pedal, the harder I pedal the louder it is, but it's silent then I use the throttle and stop pedaling?
FIX: You will need to replace the final drive gear

Below you will see video links and these cover the replacement of all 4 known possible issues.

Now we do sell the final drive gear and the peek gear on the website but you will have to contact us with your order # if you need a mid gear

Click on th epicture to be redirected

On the left you see the Silent PEEK gear and on the right you see the final drive gear with the inner clutch

.

#1
A quick recap of the most frequent problems and how to quickly diagnose mechanical issues ,

#2

Video on how to replace the final drive gear (including the one way bearing)

Link to final drive gear listing

Please note that the seal is much easier to remove and replace when the motor is newer, the one on the video has see the worst weather conditions and all the bearings and seals where hard to remove. It's also easier to press-in the old seal in compared to a new seal like I do in the video.

You don't need a new seal unless it's all deformed. In that case you would need to find a TC 22x28x4mm oil seal.

#3

Video on how to open the gearbox and swap the clutch or the peek gear.

Another video on how to open the motor and change the PEEK gear if you missed something in the second one :

#4
Gearbox explained

Video on how the gearbox works,

WARNING for stock 750W controllers: If you decide to open up the motor, please be aware that you cannot turn the rotor, if you do the controller will loose the position of the rotor and you will have to calibrate the motor to the controller using the BESST, see picture below of what you must not touch!

We will cover some of the issues but not everything as not all the parts can be ordered online.. yet. We can always fix your motor if the part is not available online so keep that in mind.

**Sebz** · 08-30-2021, 05:03 PM

Maintenance / Greasing

We recommend to use MobilGrease SHC100 as the thickeners are compatible with the stock grease, if you don't have it make sure that it's compatible with moly grease, if you are using Mobilgrease28 or any other that you are not sure best would be to thoroughly clean all the gears first.

If you rip any of the gaskets and are in a rush out can always make your own with some RTV gasket maker, ok fix your paper gasket with a touch of glue, RTV or silicone

Video on how to open the gearbox and swap the clutch or the peek gear.

Another video on how to open the motor and change the PEEK gear if you missed something in the second one :

Another video on how to grease the M600:

Video on how the gearbox works:

WARNING: If you decide to open up the motor, please be aware that you cannot turn the rotor, if you do the controller will loose the position of the rotor and you will have to calibrate the motor to the controller using the BESST, see picture below of what you must not touch!

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M600 Troubleshooting

M600 Troubleshooting

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