Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Double Torque / Double Gear Hubmotor

Collapse
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #61
    It is undocumented how to hook up a battery to the 2 speed motor kit.

    The mini battery has red and black leads to a plug, and an adapter to wire leads. One of the leads is also marked with green (?!?!?!) I can't imagine why.

    The controller - which is where I assume the battery is attached - is not documented. It has a big ass male cable sprouting out but it doesn't fit the battery, and in any case the polarity is not identified. just a lead with two big ass male plugs with no color coding. Well, one has a white dot which is pretty meaningless in a dc environment.. There is no matching female to bare leads adapter to splice in to match the battery.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    ***EDIT***oops one of the big ass controller leads was NOT marked with a white dot - that was a random piece of styrofoam!!!! Sorry!
    Last edited by sciencemonster; 12-14-2017, 04:57 PM.

    Comment


      #62
      Not sure what green lead you are talking about on the battery.

      Yes battery is attached to controller.
      If you have a softpack, as described in the softpack documentation on the listing you would wire up the matching xt90 onto the power wiring on the controller (i.e., the cable with the two big wires on it)

      Last I checked the kit comes with a plug that plugs into that connector to give you bare wires which are color coded.
      Click image for larger version

Name:	doubletorque_connector_battery_to_controller__89887.1487137708.1280.1280.JPG?c=2.jpg
Views:	249
Size:	206.9 KB
ID:	53041

      But if for some reason you do not have this connector, or you do not want to use a connector leading to another connector, you could also just cut off the male part of the plug on the controller, strip back the wiring and it should be color coded on the wiring leading to that connector.


      Comment


        #63
        Here is what I have - two different connectors. The one from the battery is marked green. I would like a nice clean connection, not spliced wires, and so I can easily remove the battery when my bike is unattended. Could you direct me to what I need to do that, if it can be done?

        I thought I read somewhere on the battery page that Luna standardizes the battery connectors, but I guess I misread. The only adapter I could find in the package is pictured. It attaches on the battery side.
        Last edited by sciencemonster; 12-14-2017, 07:33 PM.

        Comment


          #64
          this one?

          This one?


          This one?


          I can't tell by these pictures which one I need. Please help.

          The battery description says "Beefy XT-90's lead wire connectors with spark resistor! (included is male for controller)" but the male doesn't connect to the controller - its bare leads.

          The motor kit description says "Compatible with 48 and 52 volt battery" but the controller connection is not compatible with the battery.
          Last edited by sciencemonster; 12-14-2017, 08:07 PM.

          Comment


            #65
            The green marking on the XT90 denotes that it is the antispark variant. This is called XT90-S. It has a special resistor in it so when it is partially plugged in it hits this resistor, then once it is fully inserted it doesn't spark because you are sort of making the connection in stages.

            Cut the plug and crimp, solder or use sleeves to connect the pigtails of the matching xt90 connector onto the bare wires.

            Click image for larger version

Name:	2017-12-15 00_04_28-Double Torque _ Double Gear Hubmotor - Electricbike.com Ebike Forum.png
Views:	315
Size:	500.1 KB
ID:	53050

            Comment


              #66
              I have a 29-in Boost (110mm) Suspension Fork 15mm thru-axle. Can the Front Hubmotor (110mm) work?

              Comment


              #67
              Originally posted by Sentinel786 View Post
              I have a 29-in Boost (110mm) Suspension Fork 15mm thru-axle. Can the Front Hubmotor (110mm) work?
              http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-b...rinhub-sl.html

              Comment


              • Sentinel786
                Sentinel786 commented
                Editing a comment
                Thank you for the info. It is a bit pricey, but would definitely work for me. Would love to see some builds. I've built several mid-Drives and am interested in building a 2WD or even 2wd +mid just for the heck of it.

              • calfee20
                calfee20 commented
                Editing a comment
                This is the best site for 2wd info that I have seen. http://hordsoffun.com/EBike/

              #68
              Hi i have a new 2 speed hub motor on bike friday...failed after 5 miles of use..the display shows its getting power but nothing at wheel it does lock the wheel from going backwards but no forward motion i have a ticket in with Luna but wondered if im alone with this issue. i ve built over 15 bafang mid drives and keep them serviced without a hitch..this one giving me problems thanks

              Comment


              • paxtana
                paxtana commented
                Editing a comment
                Sounds like the clutch broke.

                The typical cause is if someone ignores the instructions on the listing that you need to downshift going uphill. As we state, if this is not done you may break the clutch, as lugging it in the wrong gear puts a lot of stress on the clutch.

              • Tricumbent
                Tricumbent commented
                Editing a comment
                That is exactly what happened to mine yesterday. The motor left me stranded 30 miles from home, in 85 degree weather. YIKES! Mine is probably out of warranty.

                So, my question is what was wrong with the motor and how did you fix the problem?

                About two weeks ago, I rode up a mountain (1,700 foot climb) and the motor over heated. The controller shut the motor off. I pulled off to the side of the road and ate lunch. After the motor cooled off, I put the motor in low gear and climbed the hill at about 7mph, without any problems. That was the first time that I had I experienced any issues with the motor. I have about 2,100 mile on it.

                My trike build is posted at #77.
                Last edited by Tricumbent; 04-01-2019, 12:46 PM.

              #69
              What does the motor sound like when the clutch breaks? I would expect it would make some noise as the motor rotated internally. The failure described above didn't mention any sound so I wonder if it is something else? If the clutch was broken would the wheel still lock when backed??
              Alan B

              Comment


              • paxtana
                paxtana commented
                Editing a comment
                I'm not sure if the wheel would lock when backed, we have not seen enough clutch failures to say one way or the other.

                Yes it makes a sound if clutch breaks, it makes a slight sounds like internal whirring. His report of showing power concurs with this as it will be using power to spin internally but not actually make movement at the wheel.

              #70
              The inability to roll backward is normally caused by both clutches locking up, if one clutch was broken it might instead rotate the motor when rolled back. Theoretically anyway.
              Last edited by Alan B; 03-04-2018, 09:09 PM.
              Alan B

              Comment


                #71
                Referring to the double torque hub motor offered by Luna Cycle, at what battery voltage would the max power output be 650 watts (or slightly below)? I plan to make my own battery out of smaller cells, so would it be possible to use a battery with a nonstandard battery voltage with this system? Lastly, I feel that Xiongda's efficiency data would not be entirely accurate for the rewired motor, so do you have an estimate of the peak motor efficiency at 650 watt power? Thank you.

                Comment


                • paxtana
                  paxtana commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Well you can do 48 nominal but that's still going to pull 20A peak, the controller is not programmable to pull less amps so it's going to be significantly higher than 650.

                  If you want a kit like that go with our bbs02 or bbshd.

                #72
                OK so what's this connector for? I'm guessing it's for a light? Seems like lights come with just two wires.

                Comment


                  #73
                  This was set up to have the ability to talk with the bms so probably it is for communication with said bms (which does not as yet exist in our product lineup). There is also the possibility it is not used for anything as many ebike kits use off the shelf controllers.

                  In any case it doesn't need to be connected to use the kit. I doubt it is for lighting but I suppose taking a voltage reading on the wires might shed a bit more light on that. Personally I would just tape it off.

                  Comment


                  • VTBikeTim
                    VTBikeTim commented
                    Editing a comment
                    OK so I received the PAS you sent and set it all up. It has been running as advertised for 70 miles of mixed flats and hills. The clock only runs when the system is on; I have to reset the time every time I turn it on. This is weird because it holds the date and year, just stops keeping accurate time whenever I'm away from it. Is there an internal battery that might need to be replaced?

                  • paxtana
                    paxtana commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Unfortunately that's just a limitation to this display. We had the same thing with the BBSxx version though I think that at least is fixed in the later batches. This one's still on the original batch.

                  #74
                  Is there a way to put this controller into auto so it switches into high or low as needed? I can only find assist level 1-5 and L. When in 1-5 it is always in high gear until I manually put it in low.

                  Comment


                    #75
                    This controller does not have "automatic" gear selection. I prefer this because the automatic models reportedly shift too much and often end up in the wrong gear, shifting takes awhile and banging between gears can be hard on them. The low gear is really only needed for steep hills, so it isn't used for starting up as a vehicle transmission might.
                    Alan B

                    Comment

                    Working...
                    X