Double Torque / Double Gear Hubmotor

[fishnsurfn]

Hi, does his motor have more torque in low than the 750w bafang that fits in the stock Sondors 350w hub housing? Also with a couple 5mm spacers could you tighten it on the Sondors original fat bike dropouts, basically I need to know if there's enough axle width for the nuts etc? The drawing or the rear drive motor says axle overall is 211mm, that seems like a match for the 350w stock Sondors total axle width. The brake rotor is also a concern. Any thoughts on this will be appreciated.
Thanks

[paxtana]

Yes it has more torque than a regular geared hub, assuming everything else is equal.

Whether it will fit on the frame you are considering is something that will need to be measured by you, we cannot say one way or the other.

[Tricumbent]

I am using Luna’s two-speed front hub motor on my recumbent trike. But, I am not using the motor as a hub motor. I am using it more like a mid-drive motor (mounted behind my seat). I machined an adaptor that attached to the disc brake holes (in the hub) and I screwed on a 13 tooth sprocket to the adaptor. The 13 toothed sprocket is connected to a jack shaft, through a sprocket bolted to a freewheel. My pedals are connected to the jack shaft through a sprocket bolted to another freewheel. The three sprocket chain ring (normally attached to the right side of the pedals crank) is connected to the right side of the jack shaft. The three sprocket chain rings are connected to the rear freewheel through a chain (like a typical bike). Motor power and my pedals can utilize all three chain ring sprockets, seven external sprockets and the three internal hub gears. Plus, I have the low gear in the motor. Because of the freewheels, I and the motor can deliver power to the rear wheel independently of one another, or work together.

I have about 1,500 miles on this E-Powered trike. With all of my gearing options, I have absolutely no problem riding up hills with this set up.

The down side to the way that I E-Powered my trike is that I do NOT have pedal assist because the wheel speed sensor is inside the hub motor (I think, but not sure). And, the hub is not on a wheel.

Does anyone have any ideas and/or suggestions on how I can add a wheel sensor to the rear wheel and feed that signal to the controller so I can use the power assist function?

[Tricumbent]

The thumb throttle that came with the motor kit does not seem to make a smooth transition from off to full power. Is there another throttle (twist grip is OK) that will smoothly transition from off to full power?

[paxtana]

It will work with any of the throttles listed on the site as Bafang throttles, though I can not promise it will be any smoother in going from low to high speeds.

[Horta77]

I recently purchased the double gear double torque motor kit with a 48v Shark Panasonic battery and the 48V Advanced Luna 300W Ebike Charger My first question is what else do I need to be able to hook the battery up to either the controller for the motor or the charger? The battery cable does not appear to have a plug that is compatible with either one and it also appears that neither the charge or the controller use the same plug either.

[paxtana]

You will want to strip back the two power wires coming off the controller and remove the connector on the shark. Then hardwire red to red, black to black.

[Horta77]

Ok, I think I am starting to get it now, there is a separate port on the battery for charging. (found it at last, some pictures would sure be helpful). Then I need to cut the connectors off both the controller and the battery lead and hardwire them together or is there a female dongle to wire to from the battery so you can more easily disconnect the controller.

[Horta77]

Oops one more thing, what gauge wire should I be using to length the connection between battery and controller?

[Horta77]

Wanted to confirm what I was looking at before I start cutting, Please see the attached photo. The motor connection and the Display connection were pretty straight forward. Its the others that are more mysterious.

Thanks!

[paxtana]

Yes that is the power connector that you would want to cut off. You probably would not need to extend the wire when making the connection between battery and controller in most cases. But in the event you DO need to extend it, you want to use relatively large pieces of wire. How large is going to be dependent upon how much length you need. The longer you make the wire, the more resistance you are adding to the circuit, which may cause it to heat up. In order to prevent that from happening you'll want a decent sized gauge. If you need to add five feet then you probably want to use 10ga wire. If you just need to add a few inches then 12ga or 14ga should be fine.

There are likely to be some unused connectors on the controller as this kit uses an off-the-shelf controller. You can just tape them off. I think one of them does work for PAS and if you have the PAS connector it should only plug into one of them.

[Horta77]

Thanks, I am putting this on a tandem trike, so I will need to add some length to the battery connection. I need to be able to get the controls to mount in the captains position. It looks like I may be able to stretch it because there is a fairly long run from the controller to the motor but I'd have to start mounting to see what I have. First step is just to make sure it all works before I start mounting on the bike.

[Horta77]

So I hooked everything up today and I am getting no response from the motor, the display or the throttle. I opened a trouble ticket. Just wondering if you have any thing to add here.

[paxtana]

First I would check that you bench tested it before extending the wiring. I don't know how experienced you are at that sort of thing but if it's a bad connection then it won't power up. If you have a multimeter you can put it in continuity mode to check your wiring job https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ef3N9LU-D_M

[Horta77]

I am still on the bench. Trying to test it all out before adding it all to the bike. I have used multimeters before and know a little about wiring, soldering etc. I am also wondering if I should put a cutoff switch in the line from the battery.

[paxtana]

I wouldn't. There's already an on/off button on the display. Adding unnecessary stuff just adds another potential point of failure down the road.

[Horta77]

Hmm, I noticed that there was power on the battery lead when the battery was being charged, even if the battery switch was turned off. So that's why I was thinking I needed a switch on the line. Otherwise I can take the battery out of its cradle when charging I suppose.

The battery I have is the Panasonic Shark 13.5 amp hour. and i am using your advanced 48 volt charger. It was set to 1 amp and 80 percent charge at the time.