Covering these hubs
Fat Ebike Kit 1000 watt Waterproof Connectors 4 inch rim
Ebike Kit 1000 watt Waterproof Connectors Hub Motor Conversion
Geared Hub Ebike Kit 750w for Front or Rear
Fat Ebike Kit 1000 watt Waterproof Connectors 4 inch rim
Ebike Kit 1000 watt Waterproof Connectors Hub Motor Conversion
Geared Hub Ebike Kit 750w for Front or Rear
Installation
The kit is designed in such a way so as there is really any way you can plug stuff into the wrong place so typically the most difficult areas for installation is either the power wiring where you are making the connection between the controller and the battery, the connectors which need to be firmly plugged into each other so you hear 2 clicks, or running the motor without a torque arm and potentially spinning it out of the dropouts.
For battery documentation showing how to make the power connection please see the battery documentation linked on the listing.
For physically fitting the hubmotor into the dropouts with hubmotor washers this will vary depending on your frame, please see this link on EbikeSchool for an overview.
Once you have everything plugged in, tap the power button to turn on the backlight.
Now hold down the set button and the up arrow key to set the motor type.
The motor type setting will flash on the screen where the mile-per-hour readout is, put it at 46 (or 3, same thing) if you are using the direct drive hub, 80 (or 4) if you are using the geared hub. If you have issues when testing the geared try setting this to 5 (86) . Now hold down the set button and the arrow key for a few seconds to set this setting.
Now hold down the up arrow and down arrow for a few seconds and the display will flash on the mph readout letting you set the wheel size whether it is 20", 26" etc.
just change the number to whatever the size is for your wheel. Hold the up arrow and down arrow for a a few seconds to set this setting.
To set the battery voltage hold the up arrow and the down arrow and the power button for a few seconds, all at the same time
It will give the option of 36 or 48, if you are using a 52 V battery you want it on 48 this is as close to the setting as you can get.
Power wiring
The only part of this kit that is not plug and play is the power wiring, since this will vary depending on the battery you buy.
The controller has a two-pronged connector on the power wiring as shown here:
We recommend cutting this off and stripping back the wires for connecting to the battery, likely with solder sleeves or heatshrink butt splices.
For example in the case of our softpack batteries, using the male XT90 which we include with every softpack purchase. See our softpack documentation for more info.
Or in the case of a hardcase battery such as a shark pack, hardwiring directly to the bare wiring as it exits the cradle, as described in our hardcase documentation.
Usage
Bench test the motor by hitting the throttle, you should see the motor spin and it will show speed on the display as well as bars showing how much current is being used, which basically tells you how much power is being pulled from the battery. If you hit the up arrow or the down arrow while the motor is running it will adjust the assist level on the readout which determines how much power the motor puts out when you hit the throttle.
Hold set button to change between the odometer and the trip meter, and hold down the down arrow to clear the trip meter, hold the up arrow to reset the odometer.
Tap the power button to turn on the backlight.
Troubleshooting
As with all hubmotor kits the first thing you want to do if you're having trouble is unplug any optional extra stuff (such as ebrakes) that you have on the kit so it's just the throttle and controller connected to the motor. Now unplug everything (harness, motor, display, throttle) and visually inspect the connectors on each plug to make sure everything looks normal, and that there is no damaged or kinked wires on the harness or the connectors. Often if there's an issue it might be something as simple as a connector coming a bit unplugged and you need to unplug it and plug it back in so that you hear it click twice. Sometimes people make the mistake of only pushing it in far enough that it clicks once but if you keep firmly pushing it will click again.
When plugging in the display and motor make sure that connector is lined up before plugging in and that it is plugged together firmly.
Make sure that the wiring exiting the axle at the hub is intact and has not been damaged from being dropped, rubbed against etc. especially where there is a protective metal coil as the wiring leaves the hub.
If you still have issues please see our electrical troubleshooting guide which goes over how to bypass the battery by using your charger as the power source. If the system works when you have it using the charger as the power source but not the battery as the power source then you probably have a problem with the battery.
Locked up wheel with no battery plugged in:
If you have wheel resistance with it off, it's a shorted phase wire. Unplug the controller from the motor and check the resistance, odds are the resistance will go away. If so it's either the controller or the connector/wiring between controller and motor.
If resistance does not go away when unplugging the controller from motor, it's shorted internally in the motor itself.
If you need a new controller we sell them here
Error codes
| Controller Error | Possible controller issue. Unplug all connectors and plug back in as described in the documentation, inspect wiring as described in documentation, possibly need a new controller. | |
| Motor Error | Hall sensor issue. Motor may run rough or not at all. Often if this issue pops up you will be able to turn the motor to get it started and once it is spinning a little bit you can give it throttle and it will go. Typically if hall sensor fails it involves opening up the motor and replacing the sensor. | |
| Backlight on | If you tap the power button to turn on the backlight, this indicator will also turn on | |
| Ebrakes on | If you are pulling the ebrakes this indicator will turn on to show you that the power is cut because the ebrakes are engaged. | |
| Throttle Error | if you turn on the kit when the throttle is engaged this error will come on. Make sure you have it installed properly and that it is not engaged when you turn on the kit. A problem persists you might need a new throttle or to check the connector for damage in either the connector or possibly the wiring | |
| Wheel Size Menu | This indicator turns on when you are selecting the wheel size |
Repair
Wiring harness repair basics in case of damage
Model-specific info:
Fat tire version - threaded motor casing
Please note that both front and rear have threaded casing, only difference is axle length. Having threaded casing on front does not mean you got a rear.
This is done so what counts as a "fat front" could be used on some bikes with standard sized rear dropouts.
Geared hub specs
This is a 9 wind hub. Most people will not need this info but basically it means that rather than being optimized primarily for torque or top speed, it is evenly balanced for both.
All models, rim width
See below for width of standard generic rim, i.e. not custom built. For width of the custom built rims please see the separate listing for that rim.
Generic rim width:
30.3mm on the outside
25.5 on the inside
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