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ASI Mac Motor Documentation and Purchase Guide

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  • Tommycat
    commented on 's reply
    I would say your assessment is right on the money. The throttle does indeed just use three wires with a low voltage supply (5vdc regulated) for operation. The other two are full battery power which where switched by the key, and used to 1) power the LED voltage display, 2) ran back down to the controller as an "ignition" or power up circuit. This needs to be armed for the controller to power up and provide the voltage for the electronics operations. (IE: throttle power)
    What is sometimes missed is that the LED display uses the ground wire of the throttle for the return path for operation. Which you would need to run for your new voltage meter. If you have other means of disabling the controller, battery SSR or circuit breaker, battery disconnect etc. You could if desired just tie the two wires together.
    For more information on hall sensor throttles and some wiring diagrams see... This thread...


    Regards,
    T.C.

  • Redorblack Niglebottom
    replied
    I've been enjoying my setup on my recumbent trike, but the ergonomics of having twist shifters and the half twist throttle sucked, so I have upgraded from a 7 speed freewheel to a 10 speed Sunrace freewheel, and went from Shimano twist grip shifters to Microshift bar end shifters. Bought a Terracycle mount that adapts to the bar end shifter so I could mount a thumb throttle because the half twist throttle with the key and display is hard to use and hits my thigh. Ordered up a thumb throttle without a key or voltage display and was a bit surprised to find that both the two wire and three wire connector for the half twist throttle are required, I expected to just use the three wire connector thinking the two wire connector was for the voltage display. Experimenting with the old throttle I see that the display and motor don't do anything with either plug disconnected. So is the two wire connector the key and voltage display? Do I just need to put a switch on the two wire connector at the controller harness so the 3 wire thumb throttle will work? If the two wire connector is power switch and source of battery voltage for the voltage display, I may put a switch in place of the key along with a different voltage display mounted seperately.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bullfrog
    replied
    I wouldn't recommend a BBSHD for your application. IMO the BBSHD works best when you need considerable gear reduction capability like riding off road where speeds can be very slow to pretty fast. The biggest drawback with the BBSHD is that all the power goes thru the bike's drivetrain...i.e. chain and sprockets which wears them faster than when a human is pedaling due to the increased power that is transmitted. Great motor when used appropriately.

    A hub motor doesn't use the bike's chain or sprockets...the power is transmitted directly from the motor to the wheel. They are great for reliability and low maintenance. The windings of the motor, the voltage of your battery, and the diameter of your wheel will determine your speed...I have a 12T MAC in a 27.5 rim with a 27.5x3.25 Vee tire (742mm OD) and run it with a 14s battery...when the battery is charged to 54.9 volts, my top speed is about 25 mph. The problem with the MAC is that it does not cool very well because there is an air gap between the motor and the housing. I plugged some of your parameters into the Grin Tech motor simulator: https://www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulato...s=170&axis=mph and if you run a 12T MAC on 36 volts and a 26" tire, the top speed is about 17 mph...and running the MAC wide open produces less heat than the same speed at partial throttle, just more efficient. I'd set it up so you can use a throttle to apply the assist and then you could use it if needed but it wouldn't be assisting all the time.

    A hub motor like a Crystalyte or similar is going to have a higher top speed than the MAC which has internal gears to reduce the output shaft speed but a non geared hub motor will also cool a lot better than the MAC.

    Hope this helps a little.

    Leave a comment:


  • paxtana
    commented on 's reply
    The low end torque is roughly comparable yes, though it is not as versatile as something that can be downshifted. 12t is also sold out so unfortunately that would not be an option at this time.

  • CaptnKirk
    replied
    I want to convert my Trek T900 Tandem to electric assist for my wife and I. I am doing the homework to choose between a BBSHD, a rear hub like the MAC described here, or to pass on conversion if there isn't a feasible and elegant solution. The bike has 26" wheels and 68mm BBs. Is a rear hub MAC motor (12T) available now, and would it perform like the BBSHD as the article says for a 400 lb. fully loaded tandem? Our riding style is on paved rail trails - 15 - 18 mph, or slower on hardpacked gravel roads and trails. Would the riding experience, speed, and range of these motors be comparable? The BSSHD is known for torque and performance, but the simpler installation of the rear hub is attractive if performance and riding experience is comparable. Thanks in advance for your input.
    Dave

    Leave a comment:


  • badrab
    commented on 's reply
    Thanks for the suggestion, but nope, two position switch with both positions leaving voltage display on. Also note that Luna product page states that:

    "Convenient push button on/off power switch"

    No such switch that I can see...anyway seems odd to have to wire in another switch to shut off battery...

  • paxtana
    commented on 's reply
    I don't know about the half twist but on the thumb there are three positions you can put the key switch in, and only one of which turns off the voltage readout fully. It is possible this may be the issue you are seeing.

  • badrab
    replied
    Anyone using the throttle with the voltage read out? The key switch shuts off power to the motor but the voltage continues to display when switch is off. This eventually runs down the battery unless you disconnect it--seems weird, unless I'm missing something? thanks for any insights, pete

    https://lunacycle.com/parts/cyclone-...ltage-display/

    Leave a comment:


  • paxtana
    commented on 's reply
    You probably want to email support@lunacycle.com

  • Redorblack Niglebottom
    replied
    I just recieved the Lunacycle ASI/Mac Motor setup for my Greenspeed trike. Already had a cheap chinese no name kit on there for quite a few years but the controller smoked a couple of months ago on a really hot day. Got a 1500 watt controller and with a Luna 52v 20Ah Panasonic PF it proceeded to tear something up internally, I suspect the one way clutch as the gears look fine. Put another spare motor on it and did the same thing... ie. don't nitrous a worn out stock 305.

    The ASI/Mac setup in a rear wheel with same battery worked laid out, but when I went to route the half throttle with key and voltage gauge under the bike the connector shell fell off the 2 wires and the orange wire (wire on that one was a bad crimp and that wire fell out of the terminal terminal which stayed in the connector. We put the connectors back together and now the throttle key switch appears to work and the voltage gauge works, but throttle does nothing to spin the wheel. No instructions or wiring diagram was in the box so there is the possibility that the two wire connector pins from the throttle got flipped, but no idea how to test without a diagram. Any help?

    Scott

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    Originally posted by brenhan View Post
    I just ordered this motor to build my own wheel. can anyone who has the tools for this measure the center to center flange spacing between the left and right sides, and also the flange diameter? I cant see that this is listed on the diagram anywhere
    I assume that you are calculating spoke length. If you do it as carefully as possible, you can use a metric scale https://www.ebay.com/itm/JAPAN-Stain...UAAOSwkjtbARRL or measuring tape for these values. If this were me, I would buy a metric scale for the occasion.

    I just bought the one in the link as a result of reading your post, although it is coming from Hong Kong. In my search, I saw a lot of shorter and cheaper metric scales from domestic sources.

    You may know that the margin of error for spoke length is 1mm either way. I have always measured carefully (using either values published by the manufacturer, digital calipers or a metric measuring tape) and never had to reorder longer or shorter spokes.

    I was pretty alarmed that different online spoke calculators provided with identical input provided different spoke length results. I used the average of these different values. What online spoke calculator do you like?

    Are you using a single cross pattern? Are you going to have the spokes touch one another where they cross? That's what I do, even though the spokes bend a little near the spoke threads.

    I always use Wheelsmith Spoke Prep. I like that stuff.

    I also put some oil on the rim where the nipple seats.

    I also use my tensiometer extensively.
    Last edited by commuter ebikes; 09-02-2018, 08:34 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • brenhan
    replied
    I just ordered this motor to build my own wheel. can anyone who has the tools for this measure the center to center flange spacing between the left and right sides, and also the flange diameter? I cant see that this is listed on the diagram anywhere

    Leave a comment:


  • paxtana
    commented on 's reply
    Seems like a lot of added weight to have dual kits of any kind.. In answer to your question yes a geared hubmotor will freewheel but that doesn't mean it won't have rolling resistance due to added rotating mass.

  • Echo bay
    replied
    I have 20" paratrooper copy in titanium. Made by Carver here in Maine. I ride at 20-25mph using a 50cc Honda rear friction drive and a Rohloff 500-14 hub. I find myself switching through all the gears, 14th allows pedaling comfortably.
    There are certainly many hills/mountains in Maine that I avoid. Too steep for the Honda and my legs.
    I day dream about starting up a steep hill with the Honda only and adding the power of a front hub conversion kit as I climb. My thought has been using the Mac motor 6t for speed as well as torque with the 20" tires.
    I understand the geared front hub motors immediately enter freewheel when power stops. As well they eliminate cogging should the gas engine push the electric.
    Any thoughts on hybrid gas/electric out there?

    Dale

    Leave a comment:


  • Bullfrog
    replied
    Thanks Paxtana....I finally got a response from MAC and they said the weight of all the motors is the same, therefore the amount of copper is the same. There may be a tiny difference but for all practical purposes the copper fill is the same.

    Anyone can use the Grin Tech motor simulator to compare motors...it is a very useful tool if anyone wants to know about a motors performance.

    Thanks again.

    Leave a comment:

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