ASI Mac Motor Documentation and Purchase Guide

[PeteCress]

It is looking more-and-more to me like a BBS02 is the logical chooce.

[calfee20]

One of the 10T's attractions for me is low reported noise.

How does the 12T compare with 10T noise-wise?

Are the gears still nylon?

If you are concerned about noise just get a Bafang mid drive or a good direct drive hub.

[PeteCress]

One of the 10T's attractions for me is low reported noise.

How does the 12T compare with 10T noise-wise?

Are the gears still nylon?

[Bullfrog]

A friend had an old Mongoose bike with 24" wheels and I robbed a rim off of his bike.

The Nimbus 24" Dominator2 Rim is pretty good and "Kris Holm" brand has some good 24" rims too.

Calfee...thanks for chiming in. I don't get on here as much as I should :).

[calfee20]

Speaking of Grin they have a nice wheel building video.

[Esurfer]

Thanks calfee would be my first lacing but never shy to try diy lol!

[calfee20]

I have used SAS rims from Halo in 24, 26, and 27.5. They are fabulous rims. You can get them here:

https://www.bikeparts.com/categories...57&f%5B%5D=448

Use Grin's spoke calculator for spoke length. I use Sapim Strong or straight 13 Ga Sapim spokes.

[Esurfer]

What 24' rim did you use?want to use a 24' rim with my Mac not sure which brand or size spokes to use any info would help.

[Bullfrog]

Finally got an answer on my controller....it is a 12 FET Infineon Controller that outputs 40A. The phase amperage settings when shipped are 112A. According to the Grin Tech Motor Simulator, it should have about the same "Thrust" when laced in a rear wheel with a 660 mm outside diameter as my BBSHD with 28F/22R gearing and a rear wheel with a 722 mm diameter.

Going to pick up my 24" wheel laced to a MAC hub today and give the configuration described above a try.

[Bullfrog]

What is the highest amperage controller anyone has used with their MAC motor?

There are a boat load of variables like wheel diameter, phase amperage settings vs battery amperage, motor winding 6T/8T/10T/12T etc. etc....just trying to see what others have used successfully without the clutch slipping.

I have been running a 12 FET 40A Infineon controller with a 12T MAC in a 27.5" rear wheel with a 48v (13S4P) battery with 30Q cells for a couple years without any clutch problems (overheating is another discussion). I have an email in to the manufacturer to see what the phase amperage settings are and I'll report back here if I get an answer.

The reason I am asking is I'd like to try more amperage for more torque and would like to know if anyone has exceeded the clutch's limits.

Thanks for any and all input.

[Bullfrog]

Thanks Pax...if anybody else has any info or experience they would like to pass along, I sure would appreciate it.

IMO the MAC is a great motor as long as you don't overheat it and overheating may be my biggest challenge.

My initial plan to is to increase the cooling by running about 4.5 ounces of distilled water and Motul brand Mocool in the motor to thermally connect the motor to the housing. Been using the Mocool mix for about three months as of this writing no issues...only time will tell if corrosion or other problems occur.

[paxtana]

IIRC, Alan over at ert did a build of a bmc at 70v several years ago. Bmc pretty much same thing as Mac.


here is a video he shot. It's loud as shit, presumably because that's not normally ran like that.

[Bullfrog]

Paxtana...are you aware of anybody running a MAC on 72v and if so, how is it working?

Anybody else know of a MAC on 72v?

I am considering assembling a 12T MAC in a 24" rim and use a Schwalbe Crazy Bob 24x2.35 tire and running it on the rear of my hardtail bike used for commuting.

Any info and/or experiences with a MAC on 72 volts (20s battery) would be appreciated...Thanks

[calfee20]

Hey how about some pictures. I'll show you mine if you show me yours...……….i'll show you mine anyway



This is my KMX. It is not very good past 25 because the handling gets twitchy or to sensitive.

Here is another view



This is my full suspension HP Velotechnik Scorpion. I have been stealing parts from the KMX to finish this one off.



I could take some pictures of the controls if you like. I am using a 11-34 cassette with a 60 tooth chainwheel. That 10 spd freewheel you used is a lot taller than the 7spd. How did you shoe horn it between your dropouts.

[Redorblack Niglebottom]

Awesome, as long as the two wire connector doesn't NEED a load to avoid a short that will melt stuff. I have a full kit of JST SM connectors and terminals, so I think for test purposes I'll just make a jumper lead I can plug in and assuming that works, use that as my key until I figure out a more elegant solution. I have a in line amp/voltage etc.. meter I can move to the battery on this trike, I don't use the battery enough (52V 20Ah) to worry about range.. 3 mile commute and with me pedalling more and more I'm finding that after a days riding I've used maybe 1Ah which was for accelerating off stop lights and when "You need me there now?! OK! Be there in a couple of minutes." :) It is fun blasting around at over 30mph, but more exercise when I'm doing most of the work, and I'm desperately trying to get back in shape. This has been key to me using it instead of my car 90% of the time. With the switch from a 7 speed 13-32 freewheel to a 10 speed 11-36 freewheel in the rear and my big 65 tooth chainring from my old Rans Tailwind in the front, I can also get a workout at 33mph pushing at around 60rpm pedal candence or better depending on the gear. With a 53 tooth chainring I guesstimate I was spinning 120-140rpm trying to keep up with the motor. What I really like about bottom bracket drives is keeping myself and the motor in their happy spot, what I'm really liking about this is not snapping components that can't handle the power levels and being stranded 15 miles from home with a broke chain/derailleur etc.. I have newer chains on all my rides except had reused the 1999 chain on this one when I put the hub motor on, heard a clicking while riding in the park one evening, and when I was commuting to work the next day it was still there and I wasn't figuring it out until.... snap, my chain (2.5 chains on a trike...) let loose due to side plate failures and left my chain on the road. Rode the rest of the way to work on the motor and commuted home sans pedal power. Replaced the chains and back in business, but NOT stranded. Unfortunately with lesser hub motors I've been stranded due to smoking the motor and controller. This one handles the hills those couldn't and now I've got the gear range to deal with the hills without the motor if I want.