Announcement

**Sebz** · 02-08-2022, 02:05 PM

Safety Notice

This bike is powerful in off-road mode, without proper training you can flip the bike and hurt yourself. With great power comes great responsibility! Don’t try to break stuff, because you will!

We are offering it for people who know what they are doing and will be responsible with this kind of power (know how to ride fast on 2 wheels, understand the limits, etc).

Modifying the the bike is NOT advised as it greatly increases the likelihood of severe injury and property damage.

It is NOT legal to ride this at full power on public streets or trails. We sell this bike for use on private property and/or for race/track riders.

SAFETY TIP: NEVER use flimsy adjustable stem to raise the bars, it's not made for downhill bikes so for sure it's not ok for a 100lbs + bike. Hard landing where you bottom out the fork will lead to a direct hit on the weakest part and end up with a stem to the face. Use real downhill parts like a direct stem and use metal direct stem risers and riser handle bars instead.

**Sebz** · 02-08-2022, 02:06 PM

UNBOXING/SETUP

Now before you act like a 5year old on Christmas and unbox it and assemble it there are some thing you should know!

You must turn the breaker off before connecting the battery and you must turn off the breaker before unplugging it. If you don't you risk to damage the connector.

The new electronic throttle is not installed on the handle bar, so please be careful not to pull the wiring when installing it. Once installed on the bar end then install the handle bar to the stem, DO NOT INSTALL the throttle after installing the bar to the stem or chances are that you will rip a wire out of it. Also make sure it's not installed all the way to the end where the tip of the grip rubs on the end of the handlebar, you need to leave a gap so the grip wont bind to the bar! Lock the throttle to the bar with the 2 allen head screws once you are sure it does not rub/grab, then install the bar to the stem.

Then you must zip tie the throttle wire to the handle bar (not tight, don't crush the wires) or tape it to the handle bar to you won't be able to pull on the wire accidentally while riding, you can also ziptie the throttle wire to the brake line on the side of the bike. Lunacycle will not replace your throttle if you rip the wires out of the handle or crush the cable (when replacing a controller, fork or bash guard).

You really need to watch the following video before trying to unbox your bike, trust me it can save you time and money. but before you do there are different versions of the front fork, in the video we cover the RST fork only so please make sure that you read the appropriate section first. Be careful when removing the axle lock nut, some are reverse threaded so look at the bolt it will show you the direction, if you turn the wrong way around the bolt will snap without much force.

Please note on the axle caps and pinch bolts if you do not want to check tightness so often a drop of blue loctite can be used, but be sure to use blue and not red loctite!

The unboxing video
Video #1

There is also a Video in Chinese that covers the unboxing and assembly, the good thing about it is that it gives you the torque setting of the bolts. We do have a complete torque setting chart down below too!
Video #2

Now your Sur-Ron likely came with a different fork so please find your model below and read the notes:

DNM USD8S fork / FASTACE / KKE (basically all inverted forks)

please watch this video:
Video #3

Or this part of the video:
Video #4

Note: If you run into issue removing this axle, completely loosen both sides (and the pinch bolts) , then slightly thread back in the right hand side main bolt (3 full turns) and tap it with a rubber mallet. This will get the axle out far enough to grab the other side to pull the rest of the way (after unscrewing that cap you screwed in immediately prior to tapping it out of course)

FYI both legs will move independently because there is no cross brace or arch between both legs like a traditional mountain bike fork, so it's normal to have a leg sitting lower than the other when you have the wheel off the fork!

WARNING:

Make the front wheel is in the air not sitting on the ground, make sure to tighten the main side axle bolts first to 2nm (not more), spin the wheel move it side to side and then tighten the pinch bolts. I heard of people saying to tighten the pinch bolt first.... but that is bad advice, the axle is cut exactly to the proper length to make sure the hub in the middle is snug against both fork legs. so when you tighten the the end caps it just takes away any gap put just the right pressure on the hub and you end up with perfectly parallel fork tubes. The pinch bolts role is to make sure that the axle does not move.. The pinch bolt do the hard work so it's crucial to have them tight to factory specs and with the perfect distance from each other. If you don't believe us look at any high end inverted fork manual and tell us they say to do it other wise (look for a Manitou Dorado manual)

TIP: Add blue Loctite to them from the start and check tension before each couple rides, If you loose or break them you will likely have to source them on the web as we do not always have replacements for these in stock, can take several weeks to get them from the factory. Best to use some blue loctite on them , it's the safest way

RST (Black or white version) , This one is the fork you saw in the Luna unboxing video

IMPORTANT SUPPORT NOTE: The 2021 RST bikes came in with some loctite on the reverse threaded bolt of the axle, so if yours is stuck please do not force it too much or you will strip the head of the bolt. Instead make sure your Allen key is the right size and in good shape, then get a heat gun or a hair dryer and some ice cubes. Heat up the fork leg around the bolt till it gets warm (not burning hot, be careful not to burn the paint), remove the heat and take a ice cube to the head of the bolt that is stuck, keep the ice on the bolt for 10-15 seconds (the cooling will make the bolt alloy to contract) remove the ice, take your Allen wrench and turn the bolt clockwise (it's reverse threaded so don't tighten it more).

RockShox RC Boxxer (discontinued model)

please click to download the installation manual as the axle is a little different and need to be tighten properly.

SUPPORT NOTES: This 2019 RS fork uses the new axles system called "Boost axles" So for the Sur-Ron front wheel to fit this fork there is a disk brake spacer installed.. So if you replace the front disk or the front wheel make sure to re-install the disk spacer. Click here to see the difference between boost axle VS the normal axle

FYI, This fork was only available on a special edition of the Sur-Ron bike, sadly it will not be available anymore ever again.

**Sebz** · 02-08-2022, 03:00 PM

Before riding

Charge your battery while you check your bike, if it's already charged go to step #2, if not charged let it charge off the bike and once done go back to step 2.
Turn the breaker to the OFF position (toward the left) make sure the key it to the OFF position, plug both connectors to the battery and then flip the breaker ON (to the right) and then turn the ignition key switch to ON. NEVER EVER unplug or plug back the battery with the breaker on, eventually the battery connector will weld itself. And always make sure the connector is always clean, tight and fully inserted. If this is not done you can break your bike.
Check Spoke tension and recheck them after a few rides, they can come loose and you can rip nipples out of the rim or worst. If unsure how to properly tighten spokes and true a wheel, please take the wheel to a trusted motorcycle or MX shop or even a local bicycle shop can do it. There are many Youtube videos on checking spoke tension on a Sur-Ron
Go over all the bolts before your first ride, especially the axle bolts, headset , stem, top cap, brake levers and throttle and the fork bolts on the crowns to hold the fork legs in place. please refer to the torque setting chart down bellow. Click here to see how to adjust the headset & stem.
Use that cardboard box as a stool and put the bike on it if you don't have a proper stool. Check if both brakes work fine and if the pads dont rub too much on the disks. If the brakes are spongy or if you have too much drag you will have to so a brake adjustment or bleeding.
Check the tire pressure, too low and you can pinch the tube or rip the valve off due to slippage. Too much pressure and it wont ride good off road. Anywhere between 18-30psi on the stock off-road tires is good.
Chain tension, it seems like they ship the bikes with high chain tension but you might find that loosening it up will get you less noise and less drag, This is unlike any motorcycle were the chain tension gets higher when the suspension compresses so it's easier to figure out the right tension from the start. You should be able to move it up and down half an inch up to an inch (0.5"-1"), if it's too tight you will put too much tension on the drive train and also it will not ride as smooth. Too loose and the sprockets will wear off faster, way too loose and you can lock up your wheel while riding (not fun at 40mph).Please click this link to know how to setup the chain tension properly.
If you have the pedal kit install, make sure you checks each bolt/nut on the freewheel and bottom bracket assembly.
Move over to the rear and check if the rear axle is solid & suspension components are secured. If the rear spring is loose then you must tighten the lock nut (click here)
Oil the chain, it should be lubricated from factory but it' always better to check. If the chain is too dry lube it with motorcycle chain lube, dry or wax type lubes are good for dry/sand offroad or street riding. Wet lube is best for wet/muddy trail riding environment. If you have the gold O-Ring chain then it's all good, no need to oil it!
Check the front fork, lock the front brake and put your weight over the handle bar to compress it, make sure you can at least go half way in. Adjusting the compression knob (top right blue knob) will change that so you can add more if you are a heavy rider or someone that jumps alot! If the fork does not come back up fast enough from a compression or too fast, then you can adjust the rebound (blue knob under the right fork leg).
If you have a DNM fork, this fork is coil sprung but has an air bladder on the damper side and that bladder needs to have 150 PSI in it. So lift the front off the ground and make sure you have 150PSI, if not add some more to 150 PSI of air in the leg using a proper shock pump. Bike tire pumps, no matter how high end they are do not work on suspensions.
Change from KM/H to MPH please turn off the key switch and press the little red button beneath the display and hold while turning the key swtich continue to hold the button for 3 sec and release.

And please wear a proper helmet (DOT full face dirt bike and goggles) and protection gear, this is a 40+ mph fun bike and last thing we want is for you to get hurt!

**Sebz** · 02-08-2022, 03:20 PM

General maintenance

It's an electric bike so not much maintenance on the motor and battery!

Once every 60 miles or so (may depend on your use) it may seem a lot but this is a 45mph bike and the maintenance should not be any different than a gas dirt bike:

Chain will need cleaning and immediate lubing (use motorcycle chain lube or bike lube)
The chain will have to be checked for tension, belt too.
Sprockets inspected
Pedal kit will need to be inspected, freewheel set screws and bottom bracket lock nuts
The spokes on the rims will have to be inspected. Here are the basics on how to tighten dirtbike spokes.
Suspension bolts and axles will have to be re-tighten, click here to see the torque setting chart
Headset, stem, handle bars, brakes, axles. All of them need to be inspected.
The battery is similar to any e-bike so storage, charging, use, temperature limits are all the same (click for more info) & Scroll down to battery FAQ.
Battery connector, keep them clean and tight, and by tight I mean spread the prongs a little to ensure a good contact.. if not then you will get into issues eventually and I will ask you have you read the maintenance part???

Video on how to keep the connector in good shape

Long term maintenance:

The fork, shock, pivots, motor mounts, belt tension should be inspected after a couple months or few hundred miles ... all bolts and nuts inspected basically. click here to see the torque setting chart
For a hydraulic bleed kit this will work (The hydraulic brakes use mineral oil)

Harsh environment: Road salt and saltwater

Electronics

As with any electric vehicle, saltwater can be damaging as it affects the electrical conductivity of circuits which could short circuit. You should not expose to saltwater. To protect against this you can use dielectric grease on any electrical connector. NOT on the metal pins but on the seal and on the back side of the connectors. ON the controller backside you have exposed power connectors bolted to the controller, so best is to spray electric grease over them. Do not loosen them up before spraying, make sure the lugs are tight then spray grease over them! It is an easy addition and recommended if exposing to water in general.

Motor

You could seal the motor up but it would not be enough, that applies to all ebike motors. If you seal up the motor (taking it apart, removing the gaskets and replacing them with RTV and such) the motor will still get hot and when you dip it in water it will cool down fast, and the air will do the same inside. When the air gets hot it expands, it creates pressure inside the motor and air will find its way out as it's not a pressurized canister and then when the air cool down rapidly the air molecule will get smaller and that creates a vacuum. That vacuum will suck air in and will pull humidity and water in the motor VIA the weakest point in the motor which is the bearings and the phase wires and the gaskets. So you will still end up with humidity and water inside eventually. So best way to prevent that is to avoid dipping the motor into water! The only way to have a waterproof motor would be to coat the winding with varnish, replace all gaskets with RTV gasket maker, seal up the cables and connectors. During cold weather riding this effect can happen without even dipping the motor, it can happen because snow will get on top of the motor and melt with the warm motor and then cool down again and will suck water in.

So what can you do? For starters if you must ride near water/snow and such, best would be to grease the outer bearings so no water will get sucked through them, after a ride dry the motor remove any excess snow /water (I use compressed air). Once the motor is dry, I use spray lube (as a water repellent ) on the bearings and shaft (don’t spray lube on the belt). Hope that helps

**Sebz** · 02-08-2022, 03:33 PM

Battery FAQ

Storage of the battery

The battery will self discharge ( the smart BMS remains active). So if you leave it unplugged for a few weeks then it's your duty to check the battery level at least every month to be sure that it's around 40-60%. If you let it drain to 0% it can be jumpstarted back to life. It can take a few jumpstart to get it to charge normally.

Battery maintenance

IMPORTANT: NEVER LEAVE THE BATTERY CHARGING UNATTENDED OR OVERNIGHT WHILE SLEEPING! Li-ion is safe to use but like any energy storage device there are some risks associated. If you would like to know more safety concerns with Li-ion click here

Always close the breaker before unplugging and plugging the battery, if not you can damage the power connectors.The breaker is not used as a breaker, it's only used as a disconnect switch so you can safely disconnect and connect you battery.

VERY IMPORTANT: Never ever attempt to charge a frozen Li-Ion battery that is under 32 deg F (or 0 deg Celcius) Below freezing permanent damage will occur if you try to charge your battery pack. If your pack is frozen bring it inside your house and let it sit for a few hours till the battery is over 50F (10C) READ MORE HERE.

IMPORTANT BUT NOT CRITICAL ;) : The battery needs to be charged prior to the first ride. The packs are shipped with 30-50% state of charge only! Always plug the charger in the AC outlet before connecting the charger to the battery.

Please fully charge the battery to 100% for the first few cycles(3-5), leave it on till the charger stops...can take up quite a few hours ( anywhere from 2 hours to10 hours, depending on the capacity and charger rate). Remember to charger the battery when it's at room temp (not hot or freezing).

Battery charging FAQ's

-After a bike ride do not charge the battery yet, let it cool down for an hour or more.

-After a charge, let the battery rest for an hour or two to cool down but also to let the BMS balance the cells.

-Charging 80% and discharging to 20% are best for a long live!

-It's OK to charge it to 100% to get more range, just don't let the battery sit at 100% for more than a day for no reason.

-Standard BMS only balances to 100% (top balance), only really expensive smart BMS can balance at any voltage so far only the Luna APEX has one.

-Balancing is slow so that's the reason to let the battery sit after a charge

-Balancing can take a couple 100% charge cycles to complete.

-When new a battery may take 6 to 8 charge discharges to ballance. Possibly more if you push the pack hard.

-When new its always advisable not to discharge the pack at high amps until its balancing well.

-Don't leave the charger unattended, charge in a safe place and unplug the charger when done to avoid a drain on the battery.

-100% is about 58.8V on a 52V...if yours charger charges to 58.6 or 58.9V it's fines no worries.

-Its also important that when running the battery to 10% or lower you risk tripping the BMS. When this happens the charger may not want to start. If this happens then you will need to Jump start the pack. Refer to this link if you charger fails to start.

Charger LED status:

Yellow LED means the battery is charging and the state of charge (SOC) is over 80% but under 100%

Red LED means it's charging and the SOC is under 80%

Green means the charger is done charging

Flashing yellow means the charger detected a problem on the battery, or that the voltage is too low (BMS in fault or voltage is under 45V) or a output short circuit.

**Sebz** · 02-08-2022, 07:52 PM

Videos

Unboxing and assembly	How to install the pedal kit
Teardown and review	RST VS DNM VS Fastace
Range Test	Comparison of sinewave controller to stock
Sur Ron "X" Controller Install	Force charge procedure
Sur Ron "X" First time riding	Sur Ron How to program
How to install the upgraded headset	Podcast: Sur-Ron visits Lunacycle HQ
Modded Sur-Ron VS a 450cc race bike	Street Legal Sur-Ron?

**Sebz** · 02-09-2022, 08:49 AM

SPECIFICATIONS

LENGTH: 1870mm
WIDTH: 780mm
HEIGHT: 1040mm
SEAT HEIGHT 800mm
MINIMUM GROUND DISTANCE: 270mm
WHEELBASE: 1260mm
WEIGHT: 50kg
Front Axle size 20mmx110mm (non-boost Downhill MTB type hubs)
Rear Axle is a Sur-Ron axle and uses a M12x1.25 nut (locking type preferred)
FRONT AXLE MASS DISTRIBUTION: 24kg
REAR AXLE MASS DISTRIBUTION: 26kg
MAXIMUM LOAD WEIGHT: 130kg (286LBS with gear and accessories)* *This weight limit is limit for normally street riding, it does not mean the suspension will be adequate at this weight doing offroad, some upgrades can be necessary (Fork , shock, brakes and bigger rear chainring)
Battery size 14.5"x6.4"x5.5"
Battery weight 24.5lbs
Battery specs: 60V nominal, 31.5ah, 1900Wh, 16S11P with Panasonic NCR18650PF
Battery charger: 120VAC input, 67.2V max output (60V nominal) , 10amp max charge rate.
Male charger Plug: LP-20-C03PE-01-001
Female battery Socket: LP-20-J03SX-01-001

420 CHAIN WITH 1/2" PITCH (NO "O" RING) on the standard LightBee (LB)
420 GOLD CHAIN WITH 1/2" PITCH "O" RING on the LightBee "X" (LBX)
WITH 48T RING YOU HAVE A 106 LINKS CHAIN
102 links 42T
106 links 48T
108 links 48T + pedal kit
108 links 54T
112 links 58T
112 to 114 links for 60T
114 to 116 links for 64T
Motor Belt drive model: Contitech HTD 560 8M, 15mm wide
TIRE SPECIFICATIONS (FRONT): 70 / 100-19
TIRE SPECIFICATIONS (AFTER): 70 / 100-19
RIM TYPE (FRONT): 19×1.4 (offroad version)
RIM TYPE (AFTER): 19×1.4 (offroad version)
SPOKES 12 gauge MTB style
BRAKE TYPE (FRONT): four-piston hydraulic disc brake with regular 203mm disk (6 bolt standard apttern)
BRAKE TYPE (REAR):four-piston hydraulic disc brake with 203 Sur-ron exclusive disk brake with oversized bolt pattern.
BRAKE PADS: Shimano BR Models: Saint M810, Saint M820 ZEE M640

CS notes:

Chain:
IF YOU NEED A MASTERLINK GET ONE FOR A 420 CHAIN
Oring chains will require a Oring compatible master link
If you have the pedal kit installed, you need one extra link.

Tires
The recommended tire size for a 19X1.4" wire rim is 70 / 100-19 (means 70mm wide X 100% of width 70mm x19") which is about 2.75" up to 3" including knobs depending on the brand. The Stocks tire are on the smaller side of this tire size... most MX (motocross) tires you will find will be slightly taller and wider ( and heavier).

You wont be able to use a bigger size dirt tire on that rim as the next size up is 4inch wide and it will rub on the chain even if you dish the wheel to the left. But you might be able to squeeze a wider rear tire in it like a Dual purpose tire or a Trial type tire, it wont be marked as 70 / 100-19 but use a different tire size format which can be something like 19x2.75". You can almos change the rim to a wider rim so the tire will be a little wider or you can even replace the rear wheel with a smaller 16 - 18inch rims and them use a wider tire!

So word of advice with these tires, you might think that a 19x2.75" would be smaller and narrower than a 70 / 100-19 but it ain't, it will be wider and taller than stock. Some have actually installed a Some Shinko Trial 241 in 19x3.5" but it required cutting a 1/4" off the side knobs to clear the chain.

Spokes:
In early 2020 Sur-Ron changed the rear spoke length on the 19" wheel, so if you need a replacement make sure to measure the length of the spoke or count the amount of spoke crossing, 2 cross is the shorter version (200mm) and 3 cross is the longer spoke (215mm). The longer version is only found on 2020 bikes! The Front wheel is the same on all 19" rims!

**Sebz** · 02-09-2022, 08:51 AM

Tools

Here is a list of tools that you should consider to get to be able to assemble it, maintain it and fix it!

**Sebz** · 02-09-2022, 08:58 AM

Torque setting Chart

**Sebz** · 02-09-2022, 09:18 AM

Sur-Ron documents

These documents are either coming from Sur-Ron directly or from other dealers and such, most are not written by LunaCycle.

Part Catalog list and diagrams

Torque setting chart:

Error code list

Sur-Ron troubleshooting guide (pretty basic, we go in much deeper in our own guide here)

Sur-Ron wiring diagram (made by AEbikes in Australia) Easier for the eyes than the original diagram from Sur-Ron

Original file from Sur-Ron

Sur-ron Service manual (source unknown, likely a translated Sur-Ron manual)

Sur-Ron User Manual (official Sur-Ron)

Sur-Ron chain drive to Gates belt drive document (made by Luna)

Attached Files

**Sebz** · 02-09-2022, 05:41 PM

Suspension

The Sur-Ron light bee came from the factory with many different forks, 5 models so far. : Fastace Air, Fastace coil, DNM USD8 coil, KKE coil, RST coil.
Same for the rear shock, Fastace coil, DNM coil, KKE coil,

Fastace Air inverted fork (2017-2018 model year) & FastAce Coil fork (2018+)

How to differentiate the two? If you have the spring version and you won't have air filling valves on the right leg.

This manual only covers the dual air chambered FastAce fork that came in with the first batch of Sur-Ron in 2017. The coil version has a coil preload knob on top so the only way to get a higher spring rate is to find a coil that fits the leg.

Click the picture to download the manual

The Fast-Ace axle end bolts are hard to get if you loose them , they are M14x1.5 and thread length is 25mm.

Make sure to buy a Grade 12.9 bolt to make sure you get a hard bolt. eBay has a fantastic selection of nuts and bolts if needed.

DNM- USD8

DNM USD-8 forks, they will require maintenance over time depending on your use, Your local mountain bike shop can probably do that for you! The DNM is really not a bad fork in stock form and can be tuned if you send it to the right suspension shop... Some can change so much that it will rival with big brand names for a few 100$ bills.

But you need to check the air pressure on the damper side. So lift the front off the ground and make sure you have 150PSI, if not add some more to 150 PSI of air in the leg using a proper shock pump. Bike tire pumps, no matter how high end they are do not work on suspensions.

Click the picture to download the manual

If you need to replace the axle and axle bolts they only come in a kit that can be found here:

KKE

This fork is pretty similar to the DNM. It is a coil sprung fork so you only have a rebound adjustment and a coil pre-load knob. You Do have a air valve at the bottom but that is not an air chamber like a air fork.. it's still a coil sprung fork! The air bladder does seem to stiffen up the fork a little like the DNM, So you can use the DNM pressure rating!

There is no manual available, only some pictures.

If you need to replace the axle and axle bolts you can use the DNM axle is does fit the KKE and they only come in a kit that can be found here,

Sticky stanchions, fork packing?

Can be because you do not have enough air in the damper leg , So lift the front off the ground and add 150 PSI of air in the leg using a proper shock pump. Bike tire pumps, no matter how high end they are do not work on suspensions.

If you have 150psi and it's still sticking then you likely have dirty and dry fork stanchions and dust wipers

So you can start by just a good cleaning and lubing the stanchions, if you don't know what to use you can use WPL fork lube you can use silicone spray can too, like this:

Then after you checked the pressure and cleaned/lubed the stanchion you still get stickchions?

Then it might be time to open up the fork for maintenance

2 great videos I found on Youtube about DNM forks, it's ghetto maintenance but quite smart and not too hard to do!

Rear Shocks

Well all 3 models are similar, they all have the same size (eye to eye), they are all coil shocks and they all have rebound & compression knobs And coil pre-load.

So wont go into much details here you can watch the video down below on how to setup your shock

If you want to replace the coil, just remember that the DNM takes a Fox sized coil 36mm inner diameter, the FastAce takes a RockShox sized coil 38mm inner diameter, for KKE we don't know. Minimum 3.0” max 3.25” without using a spring compressor. You can use 3.5” but will require a compressor to remove or install on the FastAce.

IF you would like to upgrade , The stock shock is a 10.5 Long (eye to eye) with a 3.5 (or 3,25)" stroke with 24mm wide eyelets (including the bushings) and 8mm bolt size (that is pretty standard)

Currently the best shock available are:

2021 Öhlins TTX22M

Fox DHX2

Fox Flot X2

And much more. they are pricey but also a huge upgrade for a Sur-ron. The stock shock is very basic compared to what you can find on the aftermarket.
You might catch a deal on Ebay or on Facebook marketplace ;)

How to adjust your Suspension

You can use these video it explains everything you need to know, the Sur-Ron uses downhill mountain biking fork and shox

---------For the rear shock--------------------------------------- For the front fork which is a coil sprung model--------

Announcement

Sur-Ron Manual

Sur-Ron Manual

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