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    Sur Ron documentation: Specs, unboxing and initial setup.

    Congratulation on purchasing a Sur Ron, at Luna we believe this is one of the highest quality ebikes to ever come out of China.


    UNBOXING/SETUP
    Now before you act like a 5year old on Christmas and unbox it and assemble it there are some thing you should know! You really need to watch this video first, trust me it can save you time and money.


    Be careful when removing the axle lock nut, it's reverse threaded so turn clockwise to remove, if you turn the other way around the bolt will snap without much force.

    If you loose or break it you will have to source it on the web, we do not have replacements for these yet and will not offer any refund on these.



    Now that the bike is assembled and battery is charged, it's not ready to go out on a long trip yet. So before you go out:

    1. Go over all the bolts before your first ride, especially the fork bolts on the crowns to hold the fork legs in place.
    2. Use that cardboard box as a stool and put the bike on it, check if both brakes work fine and if the pads dont rub too much on the disks. If the brakes are spongy or if you have too much drag you will have to so a brake adjusment or bleeding.
    3. Check the tire pressure, too low and you can pinch the tube or rip the valve off due to slippage. Too much pressure and it wont ride good off road. Anywhere between 18-30psi on the stock off-road tires is good.
    4. Chain tension, it seems like they ship the bikes with lots of chain tension but you might find that loosening it up will get you less noise and less drag, This is unlike any motorcycle were the chain tension gets higher when the suspension compresses so it's easier to figure out the right tension from the start. You should be able to move it up and down half a inch up to an inch, if it's too tight you will put too much tension on the drive train and also it will not ride as smooth. Too loose and the sprockets will wear off faster, way too loose and you can lock up your wheel while riding (not fun at 40mph). Please click this link to know how to setup the chain tension properly.
    5. Move over to the rear and check if the rear axle is solid & suspension components are secured. If the rear spring is loose then you much tighten the lock nut (click here)
    6. Check Spoke tension and recheck them after a few rides, they can come loose and you can rip nipples out of the rim or worst. If unsure how to properly tighten spokes and true a heel you can take the wheel to any motorcycle bike shop or even a local bike shop can do it.
    7. Oil the chain, it should be lubricated from factory but it' always better to check. If the chain is too dry lube it with motorcycle chain lube, dry or wax type lubes are good for dry/sand offroad or street riding. Wet lube is best for wet/muddy trail riding environment.
    8. Check the front fork, lock the front brake and put your weight over the handle bar to compress it, make sure you can at least go half way in. Adjusting the compression knob (top right blue knob) will change that so you can add more if you are a heavy rider or someone that jumps alot! If the fork does not come back up fast enough from a compression or too fast, then you can adjust the rebound (blue knob under the right fork leg)


    And please wear a proper helmet (DOT full face dirt bike and goggles) and protection gear, this is a 45 mph fun bike and last thing we want is for you to get hurt!

    To change from KM/H to MPH please turn off the key switch and press the little red button beneath the display and hold while turning the key swtich continue to hold the button for 3 sec and release.




    Maintenance:
    It's an electric bike so not much with the motor and battery!

    Once every 60 miles or so (may depend on your use) it may seem a lot but this is a 45mph bike and the maintenance should not be any different than a gas dirt bike:

    Long term maintenance:

    • The fork, shock, pivots, motor mounts, belt tension should be inspected after a couple months or few hundred miles ... all bolts and nuts inspected basically.
    • For a hydraulic bleed kit this will work (The hydraulic brakes use mineral oil)



    The Rear shock is a Fast-Ace BDA53RC. It has rebound & compression adjustments. Pre-load is done by adjusting the spring.
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    Latest shipment is upgraded to RST Killah fork for front, see our vid on listing for the differences
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    There is a Sport and Eco mode
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    Tire clearance
    Not much room for adding wider tires, maybe half an inch. On the rear you might need to dish the tire for added clearance, see pics below
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    Top-down view of the bike and battery.
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    A peek at some of the guts of the bike behind the rear shock, and the nice wire wraps on the phase wires where it exits the motor.
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    Right, left and front
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    Closeup of the optional pedal kit.
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    Operation
    All the latest production bikes have no speed limiter on them. There is a green with black stripe wire loop on the bundle that loops near the battery monitor plug. This wire needs to be continuous and not cut. The battery also seems to communicate a limp mode when the state of charge is low, preventing total cutoff but keeping the cell voltages in a healthy position. If your bike is slow please look at this: CLICK HERE

    Road salt and saltwater
    As with any electric vehicle, saltwater can be damaging as it affects the electrical conductivity of circuits which could short circuit. You should not expose to saltwater. To protect against this you can use dielectric grease on any electrical connector. It is an easy addition and recommended if exposing to water in general.



    VIDEOS
    Unboxing and assembly How to install the pedal kit
    Teardown and review Comparison of fork options
    Range Test
    Comparison of sinewave controller to stock
    Sur Ron "X" Controller Install Street Legal Sur Ron? (How-To Guide)


    SPECIFICATIONS
    • LENGTH: 1870mm
    • WIDTH: 780mm
    • HEIGHT: 1040mm
    • SEAT HEIGHT 800mm
    • MINIMUM GROUND DISTANCE: 270mm
    • WHEELBASE: 1260mm
    • WEIGHT: 50kg
    • Front Axle size 20mmx110mm (non-boost Downhill MTB type hubs)
    • Rear Axle is a Sur-Ron axle and uses a M12x1.25 nut (locking type preferred)
    • FRONT AXLE MASS DISTRIBUTION: 24kg
    • REAR AXLE MASS DISTRIBUTION: 26kg
    • MAXIMUM LOAD WEIGHT: 130kg
    • Battery size 14.5"x6.4"x5.5"
    • Battery weight 24.5lbs
    • CHAIN TYPE: 420 WITH 1/2" PITCH (NO "O" RING)
    • WITH 48T RING YOU HAVE A 106 LINKS CHAIN
    • 104 links 42T
    • 108 links 52T
    • 112 links 58T
    • 112 links for 60T
    • IF YOU NEED A MASTERLINK GET ONE FOR A 420 CHAIN

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    TIRES AND BRAKES
    • TIRE SPECIFICATIONS (FRONT): 70 / 100-19
    • TIRE SPECIFICATIONS (AFTER): 70 / 100-19
    • RIM TYPE (FRONT): 19×1.4
    • RIM TYPE (AFTER): 19×1.4
    • BRAKE TYPE (FRONT): to the four-piston hydraulic disc brake
    • BRAKE TYPE (REAR): to the four-piston hydraulic disc brake
    • BRAKE PADS: Shimano BR Models: Saint M810, Saint M820 ZEE M640


    Click image for larger version  Name:	SURRON_LB_TORQUE_SETTINGS_CHART_100%.png Views:	1 Size:	144.3 KB ID:	76313




    For Official Sur-Ron manual click here




    Sur-Ron front suspension

    The first shipment of Sur-ron came out with a Fastace inverted fork, this is the manual for it:

    FAST ACE FRONT SUSPENSION MANUAL

    The Fast-Ace axle end bolts are hard to get if you loose them , they are M14x1.5 and thread length is 25mm.

    Make sure to buy a Grade 12.9 bolt to make sure you get a hard bolt. eBay has a fantastic selection of nuts and bolts if needed.


    The Second wave of Sur-Ron have the RST Killah fork, simple anad effective fork, maintenance free with external compresion and rebound adjustment.

    For The RST axle and lock-nut replacement please see this link




    Sur-Ron Replacement Parts

    For replacement parts for Sur-Ron click here



    For further info on troubleshooting, modifications, bleeding brakes, registration and other topics please click this link for the index of Sur-Ron knowledge base!
    Last edited by Rodney64; 06-25-2018, 08:57 PM.

    #2
    Adjusting the rear wheel and chain tension


    You will need proper tools to get the job done properly:

    1) 17mm socket and wrench
    2) 2x 10mm open end wrench.
    3) Measuring tape, ruler, micrometer or else.


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    First step is to loosen up the rear axle, it's pretty tight so have someone holding the bike!

    Next step is to loosen up the 2 axle adjusters (on on each sides)
    To do so you just have to turn the locknut counterclockwise (lefty loosy) that should free up the bolt and the locknut

    locknut is the one with the chrome 10mm wrench
    The tensioner bolt is the one with the black wrench

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    Now the important part is that you need to adjust the axle to get proper tension on the chain while keeping it straight.

    There are notches on the frame near the axle so use them to get the wheel straight.
    Work slowly by adjusting each side little by little till you get proper tension, what is proper tension.. about 1/2 ich to 3/4 inch slack
    When you have proper chain tension check the alignment of the wheel,You can use a ruler to measure the distance between the rim to the frame or use your hawkeye like I do :)

    Here you can see I pull on the chain to get to the zero mark and then pull the chain up to see if I'm between the safe slack range.
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    How I center the wheel to the bike
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    Once you have proper alignment and chain slack you must lock the tensioner in place, if you don't it will likely be all loose after your next ride.

    Hold the bolt in place with the black wrench then turn the lock-nut clockwise with the chrome wrench till the nut to set to the frame and tight.

    Recheck the chain tension again, pull hard on the chain to be sure if the axle is sitting on the tensioner. If you got more slack you will have to redo it again.

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    Once it's locked on place it,s time to get that 17mm socket an wrench and firmly secure the axle, it's a large diameter axle so you can put a lot of force on it.

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