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Sur Ron LightBee documentation: Specs, unboxing and initial setup.

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    Sur Ron LightBee documentation: Specs, unboxing and initial setup.

    Congratulation on purchasing a Sur Ron Light Bee or LBX, at Luna we believe this is one of the highest quality ebikes to ever come out of China.

    Now before you act like a 5year old on Christmas and unbox it and assemble it there are some thing you should know! You really need to watch this video first, trust me it can save you time and money.
    Be careful when removing the axle lock nut, some are reverse threaded so look at the bolt it will show you the direction, if you turn the wrong way around the bolt will snap without much force.

    Make sure the axle bolts and the pinch bolts are tightened correctly, before each couple rides, If you loose or break them you will likely have to source them on the web as we do not always have replacements for these in stock, can take several weeks to get them from the factory. Click image for larger version  Name:	40-axle-install.jpg Views:	1 Size:	31.4 KB ID:	88343

    Now that the bike is assembled and battery is charged, it's not ready to go out on a long trip yet. So before you go out:

    SUPPORT NOTES: Some Light-Bee X (LBX) were shipped in street legal mode (25-30mph) and some standard light bee locked in slow mode (8mph), So if you bike is slow can't go any faster please check out this link to unlock the offroad mode

    1. Go over all the bolts before your first ride, especially the axle bolts and the fork bolts on the crowns to hold the fork legs in place.
    2. Use that cardboard box as a stool and put the bike on it, check if both brakes work fine and if the pads dont rub too much on the disks. If the brakes are spongy or if you have too much drag you will have to so a brake adjusment or bleeding.
    3. Check the tire pressure, too low and you can pinch the tube or rip the valve off due to slippage. Too much pressure and it wont ride good off road. Anywhere between 18-30psi on the stock off-road tires is good.
    4. Chain tension, it seems like they ship the bikes with lots of chain tension but you might find that loosening it up will get you less noise and less drag, This is unlike any motorcycle were the chain tension gets higher when the suspension compresses so it's easier to figure out the right tension from the start. You should be able to move it up and down half a inch up to an inch, if it's too tight you will put too much tension on the drive train and also it will not ride as smooth. Too loose and the sprockets will wear off faster, way too loose and you can lock up your wheel while riding (not fun at 40mph). Please click this link to know how to setup the chain tension properly.
    5. If you have the pedal kit install, make sure you checks each bolt/nut on the freewheel and bottom bracket assembly.
    6. Move over to the rear and check if the rear axle is solid & suspension components are secured. If the rear spring is loose then you much tighten the lock nut (click here)
    7. Check Spoke tension and recheck them after a few rides, they can come loose and you can rip nipples out of the rim or worst. If unsure how to properly tighten spokes and true a wheel, please take the wheel to a trusted motorcycle or MX shop or even a local bicycle shop can do it.
    8. Oil the chain, it should be lubricated from factory but it' always better to check. If the chain is too dry lube it with motorcycle chain lube, dry or wax type lubes are good for dry/sand offroad or street riding. Wet lube is best for wet/muddy trail riding environment.
    9. Check the front fork, lock the front brake and put your weight over the handle bar to compress it, make sure you can at least go half way in. Adjusting the compression knob (top right blue knob) will change that so you can add more if you are a heavy rider or someone that jumps alot! If the fork does not come back up fast enough from a compression or too fast, then you can adjust the rebound (blue knob under the right fork leg)

    And please wear a proper helmet (DOT full face dirt bike and goggles) and protection gear, this is a 45 mph fun bike and last thing we want is for you to get hurt!

    To change from KM/H to MPH please turn off the key switch and press the little red button beneath the display and hold while turning the key swtich continue to hold the button for 3 sec and release.

    It's an electric bike so not much with the motor and battery!

    Once every 60 miles or so (may depend on your use) it may seem a lot but this is a 45mph bike and the maintenance should not be any different than a gas dirt bike:

    Long term maintenance:

    • The fork, shock, pivots, motor mounts, belt tension should be inspected after a couple months or few hundred miles ... all bolts and nuts inspected basically.
    • For a hydraulic bleed kit this will work (The hydraulic brakes use mineral oil)

    Storage of the battery
    • The battery will self discharge ( the smart BMS remains active). So if you leave it unplugged for a few weeks then it's your duty to check the battery level at least every month to be sure that it's around 40-60%. If you let it drain to 0% it can be jumpstarted back to life. It can take a few jumpstart to get it to charge normally.

    The Rear shock is a Fast-Ace BDA53RC. It has rebound & compression adjustments. Pre-load is done by adjusting the spring.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	Screen Shot 2018-08-14 at 11.56.01 AM.png Views:	1 Size:	722.8 KB ID:	71578
    Click image for larger version  Name:	sideshock.jpg Views:	1 Size:	182.3 KB ID:	71798
    Latest shipment is upgraded to RST Killah fork for front, see our vid on listing for the differences
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    There is a Sport and Eco mode
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    Tire clearance
    Not much room for adding wider tires, maybe half an inch. On the rear you might need to dish the tire for added clearance, see pics below
    Click image for larger version  Name:	clearance.jpg Views:	1 Size:	144.5 KB ID:	55126Click image for larger version  Name:	rear3.jpg Views:	2 Size:	141.0 KB ID:	55124Click image for larger version  Name:	rear.jpg Views:	2 Size:	161.4 KB ID:	55123

    Top-down view of the bike and battery.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	batt.jpg Views:	1 Size:	124.6 KB ID:	55133Click image for larger version  Name:	lightled.jpg Views:	1 Size:	168.3 KB ID:	55134

    A peek at some of the guts of the bike behind the rear shock, and the nice wire wraps on the phase wires where it exits the motor.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	innards.jpg Views:	1 Size:	125.3 KB ID:	55128Click image for larger version  Name:	wraps.jpg Views:	1 Size:	112.6 KB ID:	55132

    Right, left and front
    Click image for larger version  Name:	side2.jpg Views:	2 Size:	186.6 KB ID:	55130Click image for larger version  Name:	leftside.jpg Views:	2 Size:	174.2 KB ID:	55127

    Closeup of the optional pedal kit.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	pedalkit.jpg Views:	2 Size:	174.2 KB ID:	55131

    All the latest production bikes have no speed limiter on them. There is a green with black stripe wire loop on the bundle that loops near the battery monitor plug. This wire needs to be continuous and not cut. The battery also seems to communicate a limp mode when the state of charge is low, preventing total cutoff but keeping the cell voltages in a healthy position. If your bike is slow please look at this: CLICK HERE

    Road salt and saltwater
    As with any electric vehicle, saltwater can be damaging as it affects the electrical conductivity of circuits which could short circuit. You should not expose to saltwater. To protect against this you can use dielectric grease on any electrical connector. It is an easy addition and recommended if exposing to water in general.

    Unboxing and assembly
    How to install the pedal kit

    Teardown and review
    Range Test
    Comparison of sinewave controller to stock
    Sur Ron "X" Controller Install
    Force charge procedure

    • LENGTH: 1870mm
    • WIDTH: 780mm
    • HEIGHT: 1040mm
    • SEAT HEIGHT 800mm
    • WHEELBASE: 1260mm
    • WEIGHT: 50kg
    • Front Axle size 20mmx110mm (non-boost Downhill MTB type hubs)
    • Rear Axle is a Sur-Ron axle and uses a M12x1.25 nut (locking type preferred)
    • Battery size 14.5"x6.4"x5.5"
    • Battery weight 24.5lbs
    • 420 CHAIN WITH 1/2" PITCH (NO "O" RING) on the standard LightBee (LB)
    • 420 GOLD CHAIN WITH 1/2" PITCH "O" RING on the LightBee "X" (LBX)
    • 104 links 42T
    • 106 links 48T
    • 107 links 48T + pedal kit
    • 108 links 52T
    • 110 links 54T
    • 112 links 58T
    • 114 links for 60T
    • Oring chains will require a Oring compatible master link
    • If you have the pedal kit installed, you need one extra link.
    • Belt drive model: Contitech HTD 560 8M, 15mm wide

    Click image for larger version  Name:	Screen Shot 2018-02-22 at 6.05.52 PM.png Views:	1 Size:	686.2 KB ID:	58581

    • TIRE SPECIFICATIONS (FRONT): 70 / 100-19
    • TIRE SPECIFICATIONS (AFTER): 70 / 100-19
    • RIM TYPE (FRONT): 19×1.4
    • RIM TYPE (AFTER): 19×1.4
    • BRAKE TYPE (FRONT): to the four-piston hydraulic disc brake
    • BRAKE TYPE (REAR): to the four-piston hydraulic disc brake
    • BRAKE PADS: Shimano BR Models: Saint M810, Saint M820 ZEE M640

    Click image for larger version  Name:	SURRON_LB_TORQUE_SETTINGS_CHART_100%.png Views:	1 Size:	144.3 KB ID:	76313

    For Official Sur-Ron manual click here

    Sur-Ron front suspension

    The first shipment of Sur-ron came out with a Fastace Air inverted fork, this is the manual for it:

    Support note: This manual only covers the dual air chambered FastAce fork that came in with the first batch of Sur-Ron in 2017. If you have a FastAce fork from 2018+, chances are that you have the spring version and you won't have air filling valves on the right leg.


    The Fast-Ace axle end bolts are hard to get if you loose them , they are M14x1.5 and thread length is 25mm.

    Make sure to buy a Grade 12.9 bolt to make sure you get a hard bolt. eBay has a fantastic selection of nuts and bolts if needed.

    The Second wave of Sur-Ron have the RST Killah fork, simple anad effective fork, maintenance free with external compresion and rebound adjustment.

    The 3rd wave of bikes came in with DNM USD-8 forks, they will
    require amintance aver time depending on your use, Your local mountain bike shop can probably do that for you! For The RST axle and lock-nut replacement please see this link

    Sur-Ron Replacement Parts

    For replacement parts for Sur-Ron click here

    For further info on:
    Last edited by Rodney64; 06-25-2018, 08:57 PM.

    Adjusting the rear wheel and chain tension

    You will need proper tools to get the job done properly:

    1) 17mm socket and wrench
    2) 2x 10mm open end wrench.
    3) Measuring tape, ruler, micrometer or else.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2677.JPG Views:	1 Size:	1.80 MB ID:	74784

    First step is to put the bike on a stool or a work bench, loosen up the rear axle, it's pretty tight so have someone holding the bike!

    Next step is to loosen up the 2 axle adjusters (on on each sides)
    To do so you just have to turn the locknut counterclockwise (lefty loosy) that should free up the bolt and the locknut

    locknut is the one with the chrome 10mm wrench
    The tensioner bolt is the one with the black wrench

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2683.JPG Views:	2 Size:	1.34 MB ID:	74785

    Now the important part is that you need to adjust the axle to get proper tension on the chain while keeping it straight.

    There are notches on the frame near the axle so use them to get the wheel straight.
    Work slowly by adjusting each side little by little till you get proper tension, what is proper tension.. about 1/2 ich to 3/4 inch slack
    When you have proper chain tension check the alignment of the wheel,You can use a ruler to measure the distance between the rim to the frame or use your hawkeye like I do :)

    Here you can see I pull on the chain to get to the zero mark and then pull the chain up to see if I'm between the safe slack range.
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    How I center the wheel to the bike
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2684.JPG Views:	1 Size:	1.35 MB ID:	74787

    Once you have proper alignment and chain slack you must lock the tensioner in place, if you don't it will likely be all loose after your next ride.

    Hold the bolt in place with the black wrench then turn the lock-nut clockwise with the chrome wrench till the nut to set to the frame and tight.

    Recheck the chain tension again, pull hard on the chain to be sure if the axle is sitting on the tensioner. If you got more slack you will have to redo it again.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2683.JPG Views:	2 Size:	1.34 MB ID:	74788

    Once it's locked on place it,s time to get that 17mm socket an wrench and firmly secure the axle, it's a large diameter axle so you can put a lot of force on it.