Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Sur-Ron troubleshooting

Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Sur-Ron troubleshooting

    Troubleshooting


    Trouble turning on:
    1. Make sure you turn the key and that it is charged. There is a breaker in front of the battery, breaker needs turned on before operating.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	image_11743.png Views:	1 Size:	363.2 KB ID:	71580
    2. There is also a kill switch on the kickstand so the bike wont start till you lift it up.

    3. There is a fuse in a small white box, check that the fuse is intact. If not swap it out. There is an extra fuse in the box. Its a 5amp 250 watt fuse if you need another.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	image_13158.png Views:	1 Size:	927.9 KB ID:	71581


    Click image for larger version  Name:	image_13159.png Views:	1 Size:	300.6 KB ID:	71582



































































    Addendum:
    This failure state is uncommon but is something you could look for if having problems.
    The red wire going to the controller has a small red wire soldered to the ring terminal as seen below (The black has the same little wire so check the black too). This goes to the 12VDC voltage converter. If this becomes desoldered or breaks off it will prevent the bike from turning on (including lights, USB and dashboard), so it would be worth checking if you have already looked at the other possibilities.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	Untitled.jpg Views:	1 Size:	675.0 KB ID:	88916


    Battery appears to be dead and you cannot charge it:

    Awaking the Battery after Auto-Sleep mode:
    1. Plug the charger into the Main power. Do not turn on the charger, then insert the charger into the battery charge port.
    2. Turn on the main power, the moment, the red and green indicators of the charger will alternately blink, turn off the charger and then on again.
    3. The red indicator of the charger will blink fast (0.5 second per time). The blink time will last to 20 seconds.
    4. After the 20 second blink, the red indicator will be a constant light for 10 seconds. During this 10 seconds, turn off at the power point and then on for one time.
    5. After Step 4, the “Forced Charging” function of the charger will be turned on. Then, the charger will work normally


    This video shows you exactly how to do it:





    Remarks:
    1. In Step 3, during the red indicator’s 20 seconds fast blink, please do not turn off the charger. Otherwise, you need to start the procedure again from step 1.
    2. In Step 4, the action to turn off and then turn on the charger needs to be finished during the 10 seconds, when the red indicator is constant light. Otherwise, you need to start the procedure again from Step 1.
    3. UNPLUG FROM BOTH BATTERY AND OUTLET FOR 10 SECOND BETWEEN EACH ATTEMPT


    My Sur-Ron is super slow

    There is a factory slow mode and for some reason some of the bikes left the factory with the speed limiter activated.

    For more info click here

    Click image for larger version  Name:	fetch?id=70612&d=1533088915.jpg Views:	1 Size:	410.5 KB ID:	73206


    Cutouts (intermittent or permanent)

    Can be either:
    1) Brake cutout sensors
    2) Kick stand sensor
    3) Tilt sensor
    4) Throttle stuck


    1) Check the ebrakes. The brake levers are designed to cut power if pulled. In some circumstances such as a crash this connector could come unplugged and the connector may cause intermittent cutout until plugged back into the lever. If you see a cutout, check the ebrake connector! If it is loose of comes out if you pull on it, add a couple drops of superglue to hold it in place.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	image_12107.png Views:	1 Size:	623.1 KB ID:	71584


    Disabling ebrakes for full throttle during braking

    The goal of ebrakes is to cut power from the motor as a safety measure, however there are instances where this may want to be disabled such as during an actual race, track use, burnouts, or any situation where you need to already be hitting the throttle before you let go of the brake and require extreme agility. Please see the post below for in-depth instructions on how to service the ebrake connection


    Key not working

    Battery compartment is pressure released and if you press down on the battery compartment the key works fine this is the first thing we would recommend to check.

    Key will not fit the lock if it is the wrong key. Likely if it fits the lock it is the right key, they are formed in such a way that if its wrong key it won't fit.
    If key opens the battery door it is the right key, typically if this issue comes up it is relating to closing the battery door. If it opens it then it's the right key for both ignition and door. Keeping in mind that the issue is not so much the door per se but more like the seat itself, which has a pressure-release latch. If this latch cannot do its job due to battery not pushed all the way down, battery strap getting in the way, or wiring getting in the way, then the key will not lock the door.


    Brakes are spongy or lack of braking

    See bleed your brakes post

    Throttle is sticking or it's not butter smooth

    I feel the front fork is loose

    You headset might be loose or damaged.

    First would be to loosen the top cap of the stem, loosen the stem and the top crown clamp. Try to wiggle thefork a little to make sure it seated correctly and then tighten the top cap of the stem first, this will compress the whole assembly together. Try to wiggle the fork again to see if you still have some slack. If you do please repeat again. Once the front is solid you can start by tightening down the top crown first (do not over tighten the clamp bolts) then move toward the stem and tighten the clamp too. You should be done.

    If it still does not feel right replace it, please see this thread to know how it looks like and to replace it with what.

    Sur-Ron headset info and replacement


    Removing the bolt on the fork for assembly
    You unscrew the right side bolt "clockwise" and then unscrew the axle counter clockwise, lift up on the fork to release pressure and pull axle out

    If you are facing the bike. Take the left cap off. Then unscrew the right side. Take the battery out, so that you can lift the front of the bike easily. Lift, wiggle and pull out the axle. There are arrows on the axle for unscrew direction. For a visualization please see the assembly walkthrough video linked from the main documentation page.

    Stripped hex bolt on fork during assembly



    USB port needs replacement

    This is a usable replacement if the port breaks

    #2
    Does anyone know what this wire is for? It seems to splice in between the battery and controller connector.

    When I plug it in the red LED slowly flashes.








    Comment


      #3
      I purchased the pedal kit and installed it on my bike, which required replacing the original sprocket on the rear wheel with a much smaller sprocket included with the pedal kit. I wanted to keep the original sprocket on the bike, but the original chain was no longer long enough to connect both ends and neither was the replacement chain that came with the pedal kit. Now that this small sprocket is on the bike, the speedometer is wildly inaccurate. Reaching top speed on the bike only gives me about 18-20 MPH on the speedometer, less than half the actual speed. Additionally, the bike accelerates like a brick now, which is mega lame. I really want to put that original sprocket back on the bike.

      Supposedly, other riders have purchased their bike with a pedal kit already installed directly from Luna Cycle. Additionally, Luna Cycle somehow left the original sprocket on the bike while also installing the pedal kit. How was this done??? What kind of chain do I need to purchase in order to use the original sprocket with the pedal kit?
      Last edited by CMagnuson; 11-16-2018, 02:25 PM.

      Comment


      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        You need a motorcycle chain breaker tool and motorcycle chain quick links (master links). Take the extra bit of chain you were sent, and figure out what length you need to add for whatever size sprocket you want to use. Then break off that portion and add it to the original with a quick link.

      • Jasdidit
        Jasdidit commented
        Editing a comment
        You can use the original 48t sprocket with the pedal kit, but you will need a chain breaker to do it. I have even heard of people using the 60t sprocket with the pedal kit. I use the gold O-Ring 420 chain, like the ones used on the X bikes, since I never have to lube it, and it runs a bit quieter than the regular chain.
    Working...
    X