Loud Noise?

[Bobster]

Anybody recognize this click sound? Just started today. Bike as only been ridden about 50 miles and was running fine. I can hear and feel the clicking in the right pedal. Does Not click when only powered by throttle. Nothing seems loose. I turned the bike upside down and it will not click, also lift up the wheel and will not click. I guess because there is no load idk. Will click in any gear, the chain is straight. Clicks about the same spot in the pedal revolution. Im stumped!
BBSHD, Lekkie bling ring

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ibg9WHcEvwM

[paxtana]

Will it click if you remove the chain

[Bobster]

I doubt it cause it wont click if theres no load on it when pedaling. i wouldnt suspect a chain since theres no noise when using throttle only. in going to look deeper tomorrow.

[extravaganttraveler]

Did you ever figure this out? I have the same issue.

[73Eldo]

Are you sure the crank arm isn't loose? Get that 8mm in there and really crank on it? For this you really need something almost as long as the crank arm to get the leverage.

[Electromover]

Hi Bobster,
I have the exact same sound it comes and goes I thought I had it figured out I thought it was my rotor clicking it's exactly the same timing as yours also and it goes away under full load but if I'm around 400 to 500 watts then it shows up sometimes, very weird. This is my second build and it started happening around 50 miles also, I have around 1600 miles on it now. I also bought the Luna crank arms but still there the clicking. You can feel it in the crank arms too.

[Bobster]

Mine went away after I turned off the power, and manually stood up on the pedals and pedaled hard about 100 yards. Stopped then powered it back up. weird.

[TNC]

One thought that came to my mind was the pawls in the rear hub. I noticed a small click in mine frequently as I start pedaling with the motor on. I don't notice it when doing pedal-only power. The pawls seem to feed that click and feel more through the right crank because that's where the drivetrain is. At first I thought perhaps it was the clutch mechanism in the BBSHD, but the more I checked everything like the crank arm and such, it seemed to come from the hub but transmits down the drivetrain to where it feels like it comes from the motor/cranks. In my case I'm just about positive that's where my clunk/click comes from.

Now, some of this may depend on the rear hub design that each of us have. Mine is a Shimano XT older style with 6-bolt disc rotor mounts. These have what can be described as a fair amount of "play" before engagement compared to some others. These older Shimano hubs are not alone in this. Lots of hubs have some engagement play in them. It's not something as noticeable when I'm doing the pedaling, but the motor brings it out more. Don't know if this is anyone else's issue, but it's something to check.

[Electromover]

Hi TNC,
thanks for response, appreciate your time, that makes sense, because it seems like it may be coming from drivetrain. Will have a look for excessive play.

[Electromover]

Ok, so I broke a spoke the other day and it was the magnet spoke, and wola! No knocking, I think there is enough flex in the rim when power is applied causing the magnet to clip the sensor. Hope this helps someone.

[Dshue]

My speed sensor is about 3mm away from the magnet and works great. I know many people say the two have to be really close but on my first build I set it close and wheel/frame flex made them hit. On my second build I set it with a wide gap and it works fine.

[TNC]

Dshue, some of these magnets are freakin' awesome. Like you I've found there is no need for the magnet to be super close to the sensor as long as one has a strong rare earth magnet. When one of these magnets is sitting loose on my work bench, you have to be careful because they will move quite a distance to a suitable metal object. The magnets like many of us are used to with the old bike computers and such are mere weaklings compared to some of these rare earth units...LOL!

[73Eldo]

I think the more current production magnets with the security torx screw in them are much stronger than the older knurled design with the big slotted screw. I still have at least one of those slotted ones and those seem to need to be a lot closer to be accurate. The wheel sets I use most of the time have some other brand magnet I bought when I was just missing the originals and those too seem to be much stronger than the original bafang ones.