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BBS02 - 104bcd chainring with generic adapter - chainline input

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    BBS02 - 104bcd chainring with generic adapter - chainline input

    ebay chainring adapter with generic ebay 36t chainring......does this look like it will work ok ?
    new builder sorry for newbie questions ! Click image for larger version

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    #2
    Its really hard to tell without some sort of reference line coming off the wheel or chain ring but what I can see it doesn't look very good but maybe still workable. To actually see the chain line which I'm not real sure what the point is when you are this far and can just test it and see how it does I use some sort of straight edge that is long enough to span the tire. Otherwise I find the lines of the frame throw off your prospective as to what is straight. The ring looks like its about as far over as you can get with that small of a ring so that is something at least.

    When you go to first gear does it seem to stay there fine? No slight clicking or jumping from the chain as it comes off the cassette teeth? Does it seem like the chain is trying to climb up the teeth on the chain ring as it goes on? If so how many gears do you have to go in before that stops? If it seems OK on the stand then try a ride and see how it does in those low gears. IF it works it works.

    Did you have something larger before that had more offset and you are trying to gear down? Or is this a new build?

    Comment


      #3
      You want the front chain ring to be more in line with the larger rear cogs. The reason is they are larger diameter so will flex under load far more than the smaller cogs and they are closer to the front chainring( this means there are fewer chain links to flex and absorb the misalignment) . On my bike the front chainring is centered on the rear 8 speed cassette(dead on between 4th and 5th gear)and there is notable flex on the 40 tooth 1st gear cog. I believe that chain jumping would occur if my front chainring was any farther out.
      I would recommend either using a 42 tooth Lekkie bling ring or the stock bafang 44 tooth either one will move your chainline in a considerable amount.
      I use the stock 44 tooth bafang chainring and it has good low end power.

      If you just have to have super low gearing then the only real option is to rearange your rear cassette cogs. You'll loose some gears between low and high but it allows your chain to reach the larger cogs. Of course with this method you must remember to re set the low stop on your derailleur....

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        #4
        Finally got out on a nice test ride 21 miles of road and trails....no issues at all. Pretty rocky stuff that I would normally ride my Haibike All Mtn on and no chain drop felt comfortable on the road as well as trails. I like the 36T better than the Bafang 44T I had. Chain-line seemed fine to me !

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        • Mike_V
          Mike_V commented
          Editing a comment
          Good to see that Rhode Island terrain, Dave.

        #5
        Keeping the chain lubed will help a lot. When it gets dry it can climb up off of the front cog. I would add an upper chain guide just for some extra insurance.

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          #6
          Well Well Well I also have a Haibike. Mine is the Yamaha version. Makes me respect 32 v. I have however changed out all the gears and brakes. Chain rings and cassette. Lower ratios around here in Ventura Ca. 10 speed cassettes are tricky as they are very sensitive. If you want solid rock reliable shifting under all situations then 8 speed. Otherwise spend money ,money , money. The new one /12s work pretty good. They have the advantage of a single crank and precise frame alignment.
          I also have a BBSO2 that is many years to the wind. I have been through it many times. Chain alignment is only going to be so so. Remember it is a retro fit. Again 10 speeds are tricky, especially the early ones. It is common for the chain to run up and down before settling in. All in all, you can get a chain ring of sufficient design from Luna to help the chain line. The larger ones are concave. This helps quite a lot. It is possible to set up a BBSO2 with TWO chain rings. Using adaptors from Luna and a trip to hardware store you can place a smaller ring on motor out put. And larger ring on the adaptor to the out side. I use a a 32 inner I think and a 44 outer. NOW you have to stop and move the chain by hand to use the two rings. This improves shifting in the given range. As in the larger rear Cog lines up with the smaller front ring and the smaller cog lines up with the outer large ring. The net is a reduction of gears and the need to plan. NOTE most E-Bicycle power controls have several power settings. As in multiple levels. Try to think of these as AUX gears. The game is to place torque on rear drive. Instead of a shift try to go to a higher power setting. This is similar to a down shift to a lower gear. Net is more torque to drive. Same result. You go up hill. Or increase speed. In shifts to high. If at 1 to 1 ratio add power not gear. This is original American muscle car.

          Comment


            #7
            The first thing I would do is go to Sheldon Browns Gear calculator. Put in the gears you have now and figure out what you need for a top and bottom gear.
            https://duckduckgo.com/?q=sheldon+br...t=brave&ia=web
            One of the offset chainrings with a Wide/Narrow tooth profile will let you use all the gears on a casette. If you must use a flat ring/adapter setup (like I do) then some gears might be out of range due to chainline issues.
            Powerful E bike motors like the BBS series don't need a lot of close gears. You can get a cheap casette with separate cogs and stack up your own 5-6 speed casette using 8 speed cogs and spacers ( or 9 speed if that's what you have, the cogs are the same, the spacers are different). The top gear is usually a special type that overlaps the end of the hub, and has the spacer built in so you will need to get the right size of that one. Unused cogs/spacers can be stuck in behind the casette to act as spacers there. Get a longer low limit screw to put in the derailer. You may need to get a derailer hanger extension to clear the largest cog in it's new position. For example you could replace an 11t,13t top pair with a single 12t top gear and move your lower gears out 1 space there, and stick the unused 13t in back.
            The screws in the casette are just to keep the small spline lined up, and the cogs can't be flipped either. markings go to the outside of the casette.
            Last edited by Retrorockit; 4 weeks ago.

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              #8
              If you like excel and want a spreadsheet calculator for computing bicycle speed vs. pedal cadence see the attached - entries are green and output (speed) is yellow - top is imperial, bottom metric...
              Attached Files

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                #9
                I found this 1x9 kit. No experience with this brand. 11-50t 9 speed.
                http://www.bikeman.com/JB-898784.html
                This is about like my 11-40 8 speed with a granny gear added. Maybe this would let you step up to an offset chainring.
                For my street riding where acceleration is everything. This gear spacing allows me to run through the gears without having to skip any of them. Better shifts and no distraction in traffic.
                With a 12t top gear mod,and the 50t removed it would make a nice narrow 12-42t 7 speed casette. The casette is a Sunrace part. 12-15-18-22-28-34-42 would be the result for the gear calc.
                The full 9 speed casette is 11-13-15-18-22-28-34-42-50.
                Last edited by Retrorockit; 4 weeks ago.

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                  #10
                  If you want to go with a full 1X conversion, check out what I did with my Cannondale.

                  https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...-lectric-build

                  It started as a 3X8. I converted with a SRAM NX twist shifter, 10X Sunrace 11-46T upgrade cluster, and a Shimano SLX RD-M7000 derailleur.


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                  I'm super happy with the result.

                  Jose

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