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Does anyone report chain breaks with BBSHD or Cyclone?

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    #31
    Lots of good info in this thread. Still, it's hard to say what causes most chain breaks. Some people snap them with their legs while others flog them with a BBSHD and have no trouble. I have always been under the impression that poor chainline is the main culprit. How many of the failures are from broken side plates vs pins popping loose? I plan to experiment with modified cassette setups. Seems like a good solution to zany chainline.

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      #32
      I've only broke one... and it was a tortures test experiment.

      I wanted to see how long a chain would last with *zero* maintenance. I put it on my BBSHD fattie and never touched it, no lube, no cleaning and rode it in the dusty desert. I don't remember how long it lasted but it was somewhere around 1000-2000mi.

      It made sense from an economic standpoint that the loss of mileage wasn't enough to justify my time maintaining.

      But it sure felt like crud and I clean and lube pretty religiously because it feels so much better riding on a well tuned and lubed setup =]

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        #33
        I did find something while lubing the chain on my BBSHD 8 speed.The quick link side plates were warped. Probably from the cross chaining on my 130mm x5 bolt Bafang adapter setup.They're much thinner than the other side plates on the KMC E bike chain. I think the Wipperman part is a little different. I haven't looked yet to see if there is any advantage there. But a heavier duty part there would be nice.
        I may actually go back to the old Shimano press pin method. No weak link there. I'll have to see if the Shmano pins work with a KMC chain.
        Last edited by Retrorockit; 11-25-2018, 07:29 AM.

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          #34
          Originally posted by AZguy View Post
          I've only broke one... and it was a tortures test experiment.

          I wanted to see how long a chain would last with *zero* maintenance. I put it on my BBSHD fattie and never touched it, no lube, no cleaning and rode it in the dusty desert. I don't remember how long it lasted but it was somewhere around 1000-2000mi.

          It made sense from an economic standpoint that the loss of mileage wasn't enough to justify my time maintaining.

          But it sure felt like crud and I clean and lube pretty religiously because it feels so much better riding on a well tuned and lubed setup =]
          Not to mention they get noisy when not maintained.

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          • AZguy
            AZguy commented
            Editing a comment
            very

            shifted like crap too

          #35
          i started using dry lube last year. didn't realise it had a short life. thought my motor was starting to make noise. Just the chain.

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            #36
            this is my machine and it weighs a ton, no chain breaks but dialed torque back with tuning cable so i don't get much power till i get rolling, now done 3600 miles and only on my second front steel chain ring, using a shimano nx10 bike chain.
            Last edited by carlos; 05-26-2019, 01:23 AM.

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              #37
              I've got some miles on my BBSHD Wippermann e bike chain. No stretching going on, and the Connex link comes apart with fingers only. I did find one thing. 2 of my bikes are stored in the carport in the damp Florida climate. The XC bike used to have a Wippermann stainless steel chain. but now that I actually measure my chain stretch I put my spare E bike 8 speed chain on it. The E bike chains aren't stainless steel. They will turn brown if you don't keep them coated with some type of lube. I read some where that the factory lube the chains come with is the best there is, so I installed them as they came. The BBSHD gets ridden, the other 2 don't. So they didn't get the clean and wax treatment yet. I would advise putting something on the outside of the new chain when you install them. On the SS chains the only thing that rusted was the end of the pins. I asked Wippermann tech support about lube instructions for an E bike chain. No reply. They don't seem to have much interest in DIY US E bike riders.

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                #38
                Originally posted by mrmatt View Post
                I have some experience with this. I ride a KMC X10-93 10 Speed Chain. I've heard 7-8-9 speed chains are sturdier because of the wider links but 10 and 11 speed chains they have to make narrower to fit in the same amount of space. This makes them more delicate. My first chain I broke real links and sometimes the connector link (ie. MissingLink) more than once. This all happened before I converted the bike to electric power so that was not the issue. If this is happening to you then your chain is damaged. Get rid of it. Even though this was the stock chain that came with my bike something was wrong with it.

                For my second chain I bought a brand new KMC X10-93 10 Speed Chain and I always carry extra MissingLinks. At this point my bike was now fitted with a BBSHD. My chain was now working but I kept breaking MissingLinks until I discovered a few things:

                1) The product says "KMC Missing Link 10R (reusable)". Hogwash. Do not reuse these links. I would open and close the connector to take my chain off but each time you do this you risk damaging the razor thin locking mechanism. It's really not worth the risk. Also, check the manual. "Caution: Always use a new MissingLink when fitting a new chain. Failure to shorten the chain properly or to lock it exactly into place may cause damage to the chain and eventually total chain failure, material damage or the rider to fall o his bicycle resulting in injury." It also states "Always check Missing Link. Suggest to replace a new Missing Link when it is worn or after locking and unlocking 3 times." That doesn't really sound reusable to me. So just don't risk it.

                2) It isn't in the manual but ALWAYS lubricate both pins when assembling a MissingLink. I was still breaking brand new links until I discovered this. Factory new chains come with very good wax lubricant on the chain. MIssingLinks do not. They come unlubricated. So if you assemble your chain and then do what we all do, spin the chain around and squirt lube all over it, there's a good chance you missed a the link and you will quickly wear out those razor thin locking tabs. Once they widen out you are bound to pop one open.

                Now that I have this all figured out I have been on the same chain and link for months and I have no issues.
                I did throw a chain and really named it up in the chainwheel, but loosened the chainwheel on the boulevard where I was riding and none the worse for wear. & spd chains are a little thicker and KMC makes good chains. $15.99 and they list it as an eBike chain on some sites. It comes in a length suitable for crank forward bikes too. 128L Longer chains for Townies and crank forward bikes are harder to find

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                  #39
                  I suggest getting a Park Tool chain stretch mesuring tool. Not a gauge, an actual measuring tool that gives a measurement of chain stretch. When a chain stretches it also wears the chainring and cogs into a new worn pitch. If you replace the chain before it wears the cogs you can save some money there. Myself and a few others have found that Wippermann E bike chains break in with very little stretch, and stay at that point for a long time. Also their Connex link seems to be stronger and re useable. IDK if they'll work with a KMC chain or not.
                  https://www.biketiresdirect.com/prod...UaAhqlEALw_wcB
                  Even on sale the Wippermann chains are more than twice as much as the KMC. I would get the tool and see what the KMC chain is or isn't doing for you. Then decide.

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                    #40
                    I have rearranged the sprockets on my 8 speed rear cogset so that only 5 sprockets are used as the derailleur shifts. This arrangement keeps the chainline fairly straight and reduces the side forces on the chain. So far, m chain is intact.

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                      #41
                      Hi, I am considering buying a frame from bikes direct that uses a 12 speed casette and then buying a cyclone drive from Luna. I had read online that Luna recommends against using 1x11 speed drivetrains with the BBSHD and Cyclone drives. Is this purely a function of the chain being narrower and thus easier to snap under the load? Or are there other considerations as well?

                      What would be the recommendation for a drivetrain with the cyclone drive running at 3kw? Would something like the Nexus 8 with a burly chain be the best bet? Thanks in advance!

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                        #42
                        I've no direct experience with the Cyclone motors, but I'd likely choose a Shimano or Sturmey Archer 3-speed IGH, and use 1/8 chain & rear sprocket - especially if using higher voltages. Like this 'lil monster:

                        With my BBSHD / Nexus 8 pair I've pulled apart KMC 3/32 9-speed chain several times, and now only use 1/8.
                        Last edited by ncrkd; 09-04-2019, 08:56 AM. Reason: added chain brand
                        2nd build, 2018 Crust Scapegoat, BBS02 or BBSHD, Rohloff IGH
                        3rd build, 2018 Crust Evasion step-thru, BBS02, Shimano Nexus INTER-3 IGH
                        4th build, 2016 Salsa Marrakesh flatbar frameset, BBSHD, Alfine 8 IGH
                        Electronic throttle lock

                        Visit the forum knowledge base

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                          #43
                          Hi, I am considering buying a frame from bikes direct that uses a 12 speed casette and then buying a cyclone drive from Luna. I had read online that Luna recommends against using 1x11 speed drivetrains with the BBSHD and Cyclone drives. Is this purely a function of the chain being narrower and thus easier to snap under the load? Or are there other considerations as well?

                          What would be the recommendation for a drivetrain with the cyclone drive running at 3kw? Would something like the Nexus 8 with a burly chain be the best bet? Thanks in advance!

                          Comment


                            #44
                            11-speed chains have precision machined pins and plates that the lesser gear chains do not - width of the chain has little to do with strength (it's more about the plates and pins) and I've heard more than a few times they are stronger than the 8-10sp chains

                            I'm running an 11sp chain with an all-steel cogged sunrace wide-ratio cassette (11-46t) and race face narrow-wide ring with outstanding results... I checked the chain for stretch this weekend after 1500mi on this driveline and it's barely discernible - I'll be changing tires in about 500mi and good chance I'll swap out the driveline then... or maybe not....

                            As long as you can achieve a good chain line I wouldn't hesitate to run 11 or 12sp except they are more expensive in general... love my M8000 derailleur too - piece of art...

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                              #45
                              It would make sense that the thinner chain would be built better. I run 8 speed because the old bikes I converted already have it. 8 gears eems to cover all situations for my BBSHD. I even went wide ratio to get a wider split between some of the middle gears. But it's nice to know 11 speed is working for you because many newer bikes have it.

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