Does anyone report chain breaks with BBSHD or Cyclone?

[Retrorockit]

Well it spit the chain again. Still haven't broken the Wippermann 8SE except where it's been joined. I guess the cross peening eventually wore down from the side loads on a derailer chain. The outer plate spread during an upshift under load. I had just lubed it and checked the stretch at .25mm so it wasn't a maintenance issue. I could try doubling up on the cross peen, or maybe better to refresh it later. Hard to know when to do it though. I peened it back together this time with a new link there. But may give the Connex another shot since the riveting isn't the perfect solution. Periodic replacement, and carry a spare Connex should be workable. Carrying a spare Connex is key. Tool less repair option would have saved me a couple long walks. Also easier to break the chain for service.
The Wippermann Connex may be the winner here. But you definitely need a supply of them.

[Retrorockit]

I examined the broken link and 3 of the peened ends were still very solid even though the plates were badly twisted. It seems to be a valid technique. Maybe I just didn't apply enough brute force on that pin. I'm going to double peen the new repair amd see what happens. I stopped sonic cleaning and melt waxing the chain. Not having a Connex had a lot to do with that decision. I just wipe/brush clean it and re wax it regularly (per the instructions of the wax I'm using). Seems to be working well.

[Anandpatel44577]

Plain Jane KMC 7 spd chain. No breaks ever. It's a little stretched now, but I did throw a chain and really named it up in the chainwheel, but loosened the chainwheel on the boulevard where I was riding and none the worse for wear. & spd chains are a little thicker and KMC makes good chains. $15.99 and they list it as an eBike chain on some sites. It comes in a length suitable for crank forward bikes too. 128L Longer chains for Townies and crank forward bikes are harder to find.

• KMC Z1X Ept E-Bike Chain

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[Retrorockit]

I posted about measuring my actual chain stretch as I go and replacing at .50mm stretch. This is considered a new chain by some standards. The last time I waxed my chain it was at .50mm stretch, but I didn't have a spare at the time, so I ran it some more. The next lube it was at.60mm stretch, and starting to skip under full power in the middle cogs which are the most worn.
I installed a new Wippermann 8SE and new Sunrace 11-40t 8 speed casette, no more skipping.
The Sunrace casette is about $20 and has a nice range and gear spread for a BBSHD.
I can understand that not every one will be willing to go for the 8SE, and Rohloff Revolver chain peening tool. And TBH I haven't tried the KMC chain.
But the Park CC-2 Chain Checker seems to be worth having to find the right amount of chain stretch for your situation.
My thinking on this is that .50mm stretch on the bike stand is probably not what you're getting when sending 1500W down the chain. I tried going more but for me it didn't work out.

I started the .50mm thing when I was running rare and expensive XTR 8 Speed casettes, to protect the riveted in cogs. But that doesn't apply any more.

[Retrorockit]

I've kind of shredded my drivetrain. It started off with the occasional derailer skip. Then a dropped chain or 2, finally my roller chain guide left the bike and I had to ride home in 7th gear.
I've been running Wippermann 8SE chains. I used to be able to find them for about $50. Now they're $75. So KMC has a $27 8 speed EPT E bike chain I'm going to try. They say it's "stretch proof". We'll see about that! I'm going to try one of the plastic block type chain guides that sits right on top of the chain ring. Didn't break the chain. Probably because there is no tool less connector in there.
The chain stayed with the bike which simplifies road side repairs at night.

[Retrorockit]

I got my parts in. A couple Sunrace 11-40T 8 speed casettes, A factory made chain guide to replace my home made roller setup, and a KMC EPT 8 speed e bike chain.
I measured the new chain straight out of the box and it measured .50mm stretch brand new. It also appears that not all of the links are pressed together the same.
The very expensive Wippermann 8SE I've been using start at .0mm stretch and I replace them at .50mm after about 6 months. The KMC is very flexible side to side, so it may cross chain better.
There is definitely a big difference. I'm waiting for some Squirt E bike chain lube to arrive, so I guess i'll whip out the plastic and get another couple of 8SE chains on the way. I may put the KMC on the bike just to get it going, but it won't be on there very long. If you're running KMC and you're happy that's fine with me. But there is better stuff out there, for a price.

[Retrorockit]

I'm going to try something new (for me). My chain was skipping badly mostly in 6th gear, so the casette is shot. The Wippermann 8SE was at .5mm stretch. I've been replacing the chain and casette together even at what is a new chain dimension from KMC etc. The new chain wasn't here yet, and I can't find the deals on the 8SE version like I used to , so I swapped just the casette. So far so good. I'll see if I can go 2 for 1 on the casette vs chain service. It did skip a little in the small cogs at first. Probably just one tight link form crashing around on the worn casette. But it cleared up in a couple miles. I also unplugged the shift sensor. There was some sort of feedback between it and the throttle resulting the sensor throwing intermittent power delays. A reliable throttle is a big deal where I ride. It has literally saved my ass. So the shift sensor is unplugged now.

[73Eldo]

It would be cool if they gave us some parameters we could edit related to the shift sensor.

[Retrorockit]

I've never looked at the programming of my BBSHD. Stock display, stock settings.The shift sensor itself seems to work just fine, but the throttle seems to activate it somehow with larger or faster applications of power. In my riding environment those are very important. I rode several years w/o the sensor. My Rapid Rise setup pulls cable for upshifts so they're pretty solid shifts. The bike accelerates faster and more consistently without it.Even without the throttle issue I think I'm happier/safer without it.