Possible to convert an existing solid axle hub to through axle?

[Steve--]

I'm building a fat tire, Dengfu E06 frame, M620 motor ebike for a friend. To save some money he wants to use a set of 10mm solid axle wheels that he already has, but the E06 frame is made for a 12mm through axle. Does anyone know if there are any components available to convert the standard 10mm solid axle hub to a 12mm through axle?

Thanks

[ncmired]

I think he's SOL.

[Retrorockit]

Would a couple short pieces of 12mm OD x10mm ID tubing do the trick?

[ncmired]

Would a couple short pieces of 12mm OD x10mm ID tubing do the trick?

Collars, if you will, that would make up the axle to thru-hole gap - that's the easy part. But somehow the fork and rear triangle would have to momentarily spread about 25-30mm (possibly more) to get the axle into the closed holes. And, even worse, ya probably couldn't do one side at a time.

If he does end up getting new hubs, he might consider hubs like the Phil, White Industries, and Velo Orange that come with the endcaps for at least some of the various standards (QR, 12mm, 15mm).

[Steve--]

Collars, if you will, that would make up the axle to thru-hole gap - that's the easy part. But somehow the fork and rear triangle would have to momentarily spread about 25-30mm (possibly more) to get the axle into the closed holes. And, even worse, ya probably couldn't do one side at a time.

If he does end up getting new hubs, he might consider hubs like the Phil, White Industries, and Velo Orange that come with the endcaps for at least some of the various standards (QR, 12mm, 15mm).

I haven't tore into it yet to see exactly what I'll be working with, but I'm thinking my biggest issue will be the bearings. I'm sure the I.D. of the bearings on the solid axle hub is too small to accept the 12mm through axle. My thought process is taking me to a sealed bearings with an O.D, that will fit in the hub, and an I.D. that's large enough to accept the 12mm through axle, then just using some type of spacers to span the gap in between the outer face of the sealed bearing and the inside of the frame. There may be some other method that would work, but this is the first thing that comes to mind for me.

I was hoping someone would read this who has seen something like that out there..

[Steve--]

Would a couple short pieces of 12mm OD x10mm ID tubing do the trick?

The conversion needs to go the other way. The frame is setup for a 12mm axle. I'm trying to slide a hub made for a 10mm axle over a 12mm axle.

[ncmired]

Do the hubs have sealed or open bearing? I'd usually associate a solid axle with open bearings, cones and dust shields.

[Steve--]

Do the hubs have sealed or open bearing? I'd usually associate a solid axle with open bearings, cones and dust shields.

Yes, that's typical. However, I haven't taken it apart yet to find out for sure. I'll probably get to that tomorrow, then post back here.

These are unique, spokeless wheels in the traditional sense (more like aluminum mag car/truck wheels). The hub and the rim are one piece. Just at a glance, looking at them still on the bike, the hubs look very heavy duty, like they have a lot of meat around the area where the bearings are installed. If they are open bearings and the bore is too small, there may be enough material that I can put the rear wheel on the lathe (If I can get it to fit), and machine out enough material to install sealed bearings.

I was hoping there would be some kind of pre-made kit though. That would be a lot easier, and would save me time. The whole reason why this is even an issue is because he's starting to get uncomfortable with the ever increasing price tag of this project, and I feel kind of responsible because I'm the one who talked him into doing it in the first place. Otherwise I would have told him right off just to buy another set of wheels.

[Steve--]

UPDATE

Well, I took it apart. The wheel does have sealed bearings 10mm I.D. x 30mm O.D. x 9mm width. Although they are rare, I searched and did find a compatible bearing with a 12mm I.D. and the other two dimensions the same as the original bearings, so it looks like I'm/he's in luck. All I'll need to do is bore out the original spacers, or else buy/make some new ones, and it will work perfectly.

The only bummer is that since they're a rare size they're a lot more expensive than the original bearings, $19.95 each vs. $3.95 each. But still, it's a hell of a lot cheaper than having to buy a new wheel.

So, I guess I answered my own question after all. But I guess I still didn't learn if there would have been a solution had the wheel/hub been of the open bearing type.