Hello! I'm sure this has been discussed on here somewhere I just have trouble finding where. I bought a Amazon bike, Ancheer brand which has a 350w rear hub motor and a 36v battery. I was wanting to figure out how I could potentially add a front hub motor to it without it being too much a hassle. I will be trying to utilize an additional battery, I just need to know all about the wiring, peddle assist sensors, brake sensors. I do not know if I could use the sensors already on the bike or not, or where to go with this modification. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
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Am just beginning to do exactly the same thing, I am adding a Bafang 250 watt hub on the front, am planning to use the existing 36 v battery currently on the bike, tho' I expect to build or buy a new one.
My plan is to put a controller with a thumb throttle on the left side of the handle bar and just use it for additional power on hills, the bike already has PAS so will leave all the original stuff as is, the wheel I bought is an ex Jump bike and it already has a brake disk so that will be easy. Would like to find washers and original axle nuts but will likely have to make them. My drop outs seem fine, but will make at least one possibly two torque arms. Hope to be riding once the snow goes away in March. I have lots to learn so will watch your thread, my plan is to keep things as simple as possible, probably won't bother with a display the bike already has a voltmeter so that will do. -
Yes, this was just discussed a bit ago and a search would have brought you here -
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Thanks for the response Diggs,.
The thread you reference seems to be a discussion related to the efficacy of adding a second motor, personally am looking for information related to controllers and batteries. There is lots of information re the pro's and con's related to front wheel hub motors and adding a second hub motor on other sites but not much about the black boxes related.
The OP is planning on adding a second battery, I am not, we know that we can wire two controllers with one throttle. I also would like to find a complete discussion related to mounting the spindle in the dropouts since most of the tuber videos do not discus the need for this washer or that spacer. Yesterday I made 4 C washers to protect the wiring on my little Bafang motors, and would like to know if it is necessary to secure them etc.Comment
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Yeah i just got my 15ah battery from Unit Pack Power (good company for batteries afaik) and my original 10ah battery is being used as a spare, its mounted to my rack now and I'm not sure how to fully utilize it, if i should get a front hub motor and wire it up (the base plate has power wires), or if i should just connect it to my harness and run it off a switch (that seems kind of redundant due to the fact the bigger battery I just bought has great range). My rear hub just seems to be under a lot of strain and sometimes will make somewhat loud noises when going up steep inclines. I don't want it to fail me. I wasn't ever told a way to wire up a front hub while using the existing brake handles, pedal assist sensor, etc. Are you guys telling me i should install a independent control box? I would like to have two throttles or maybe just one for both. I am a little on the dense side when it comes to all this, complete newb lol.Originally posted by ynot View Post
Attached FilesLast edited by ViciousCyclist7; 02-10-2022, 03:24 PM.Comment
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Am new to ebikes VC, but built my first EV (a tractor) about 12 yrs ago,, am studying as fast as these old brain cells will absorb. For me my bike is old but I like it, the existing motor is brushed, so my options are either increase the amps to the motor, or add a motor, came across the Jump motors so decided to go with a front mounted. What I know so far is that each motor needs its own controller, but you can run both controllers on one throttle, not sure if that applies to a brushed controller coupled to a brushless. Am not loooking for more speed, just better hill climbing. The existing motor is much bigger than the new one both rated (perhaps) at the same wattage, so originally planned on getting a new controller that would up the amps. Gonna go with seperate throttles for this build, but for my trike build with two front wheel motors I will wire the throttle to both controllers. As far as batteries you can go either way, what about using the new battery for both and carry the smaller one as spare, I can see a situation where one battery is discharged so you would have to get home on just one motor. I expect that two controllers of different power would be ok on a single throttle, you might have to try it & see,
Grin Ebikes has a youtube video on how to wire one throttle to two controllers, it looks pretty straight forward, will post a link next time I notice it when am surfing the net.Comment
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Well yeah you got that crank motor that's why, its superior to hub motors from what I heard. I don't see the reason to have two batteries hooked up to one motor, even though I'm sure its really nice to do if travelling far distances. I am extremely tempted to buy the front hub kit though. Just because it would help with hills. The rear motor will be happier too. Why don't you like the idea of two motors? The mid drive is probably the reason, you have perfect balance and don't want to ruin it. I can understand that. Adding a front motor would balance my setup out tho in my opinion. I might be a maniac for having this desire, but it seems interesting and beneficial.Originally posted by AZguy View PostComment
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Yeah - two batteries is to have a reserve... I occasionally do long rides, pushing 50mi. Of my lightweight batteries (~3.2kg) only one will come close to 50mi and it will only do that if I'm being very mindful
I guess I'm very biased against front hub motors, at least for my use cases. For one I like front suspension and they will pretty much rule that out. Traction is much less on the front wheel so not the best place to power a bike. They've got to affect handling although admittedly I can't say harm or help or both but I do like to corner hard both off-road and on pavement so likely not a great thing for me. It's undoubtedly a a lot of weight up there too and since it's almost certainly direct drive it will have a lot of resistance without power which I can better handle on the rear but not so keen on the front.
Two motors is a lot of stuff when one can do the job. Trying to get the optimal balance of power between the two seems hard to achieve and seems to me that it would be dynamic in demand aside
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As AZ says two batteries is to have a reserve, connecting two batteries in parallel will work, but unless they are matched batteries bought on the same day, the older one will pull down the newer one.
Better to connect one and keep the other as spare.Comment
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Yeah this 15ah battery I bought as a replacement isn't the same as the 10ah one. The new battery works a lot longer but the rear hub motor seems to be making a kind of buzzing noise as im going up kind of steep hills on high settings. Its just when im not trying to pedal hard. I'm not sure if its related but maybe im putting too much strain on the motor. I was wondering if anyone has had a issue with that. Less than a month old ebike too i've been riding it normally not anything insane.Originally posted by ynot View PostComment
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I've seen that buzzing noise on geared rear hubs but my best guess is that it's not that it so hard on the motor but more like the controller "stalling" (self preservation instinct so to speak) attempting to drive the motor at such low rpm's which demands very high currents - i.e it's limiting the motor currents
I stopped worrying about it, I've got a geared rear hub bike and it seems no worse for the wear from that... just letting you know you can't get that kind of torque but not so much hurting anything.. I admit that's one of very many things that pushed me to mid-drive
I shouldn't make any apologies but 750w geared rear hubs *suck* donkey eggs for hill climbing and that's a much bigger reason I now spend more time on a mid-drive -
On my rear hub in normal operation there isn't any noise more than the gears which are pretty quiet but not as quiet as the bbshd for sure... the "buzzing" is only when demanding high power with throttle (never happens with PAS) at very slow speeds, my best guess it's just the controller hitting some sort of limit and cutting on and off - likely a current limit or something..It's much louder than the normal operation..
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Taking my Sunday free time to install the wheel & motor into the front forks, machined my own C washer as buying them is expensive, have to modify the fender struts to deal with the spindle size but no biggie, will try a short ride later to see how it rides. There is a little runout on the brake disk, how much is acceptable?, I have 4 wheels and am fitting the oldest worstest, but will switch to one of the newer ones to see if the runout is less.
Can't power up the wheel as the throttle has not arrived yet, but a riding test will tell me if the mechanics are good.Comment
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How much brake run out depends on the model and quality of the components and the level of performance you are expecting out of them. If the run out is bad enough that the rotor is contacting the body of the caliper then its too much. If its not that bad then its more of a feel and performance issue. If they are cable operated brakes you will have to have them adjusted fairly loose so they don't drag. If they are hydraulic the run out will push the pad out so there is minimal or no rubbing. In both cases this will mean that possibly a large percentage of the initial movement of the brake lever will be just moving the pad up in contact with the rotor. If its real bad this could mean that 3/4 of the lever travel doesn't actually start slowing you down so you better hope that last 1/4 is enough to stop.
If you are a patient methodical person rotors can usually be trued up. Park makes tools to make it easier but you can improvise using more common tools also. I will do it after a crash to get home but other than to get home its not worth my time. You can find pretty decent rotors for $25 and the good but not exotic ones are what like $50?Comment
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Thank you so much, great information. Working on the bike yesterday brought back the snow today, it is still pretty deep. Will check the rotor runout with a feeler against the pads, did not feel like it was rubbing and the brake action with the bike inverted is very positive less than 1/2 lever travel to lock up.
Thanks again for the info. parts here take weeks to get so.............Comment
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