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    Starter Questions and Gear shifting problem

    Hello ebike forum,

    Ive installed a bbs02 mid drive on my trek 7x, heres some bits im not sure about that have popped up.

    1) I needed to fit the chainring what looks like its is back to front, as there wasnt enough clearing on the frame to fit it the other way, is that ok? It has been running fine so far.

    2) Some of my gears are unusable as the chain is not long enough to fit over them anymore with the bigger chainring, should i get a new longer chain?

    3) NB - I am unable to change gears while the motor is engaged, just nothing happens when i try shifting gears. Do I need to buy the gear sensors to enable shifting through gears or is something wrong here? Are the gear sensors worth buying?

    4) Because of being unable to change gears while riding, I set the bike to always be in the highest gear. Will this drain the battery faster?
    b) How long should a 13ah battery last?
    c) Will a larger battery increase the top speed as well as distance?

    5) I live in a wet country, what should i be waterproofing ?
    b) If im leaving the bike outside should i always cover the whole thing with a bike bag, should i disconnect the battery and take it with me.. etc

    6) Is the programming cable worth getting?

    7) The 6v headlight which came with the set doesnt seem to work, is that worth investigating or should i just get a proper one that doesnt need to connect to the motor.


    Thanks for reading and if you can provide any help please do, Q3 is most important imo.

    #2
    3) A gear sensor might fix that problem but I doubt it. I am not familiar with your bike model but if you had to flip the chainring over and install it backwards then the chainline is likely shifted too far out and that might be causing the shifting problem. Can you shift when the motor is not engaged? If not then a gear sensor definitely won't solve the problem. If the problem occurs only when motor is engaged then a gear sensor might fix it but not likely. First you need to be sure the chainline is not deviated too far and in your case the easiest way to accomplish that probably is to install the chainring the way it is intended to be installed not backwards. A different size chainring might clear the frame. Depending on the contour of the frame you might need a larger one or a smaller one. So what size (how many teeth) chainring did you install?

    4) Probably.
    4b) Depends on terrain, wind resistance, load, etc.
    4c) No.

    5) Waterproof all the connectors with a thin coat of dielectric grease. Silicon caulk the cables where they enter the controller case. Thumb throttles are leaky so I caulk that too. I don't trust the rubber stopper on my shark battery's USB port and it doesn't put out enough volts to make it useful so I sealed that off permanently. I recently saw an excellent Youtube on that topic but can't remember where. It explained most everything you need to know. You'll find that video or something similar if you search.
    5b) Bag never hurt. I never leave the battery on my trike unattended for long even if there is little chance of rain.... theft deterrent.

    6) Yes.

    7) Try reversing the connection. You might have the polarity backwards. They are not keyed and are not color coded on BBS02. Wrong polarity will not damage anything.

    Comment


      #3
      A photo of your chainring installation would be helpful.

      Comment


        #4
        1) I needed to fit the chainring what looks like its is back to front, as there wasnt enough clearing on the frame to fit it the other way, is that ok? It has been running fine so far.

        Yes as someone else said a picture of this area may help us give you some ideas. I don't think the BBS02's stock ring has as much offset as the HD's that many of us are using but say it was 8mm flipping it now puts you 16mm the wrong direction. With it flipped this way how much room is there between the teeth and where it hits the frame? I know for the HD's they sell spacers you can put between the motor and the ring so if your issue is only say 2mm that is a reasonable fix. 02 is a different bolt pattern than the HD so you do have to find spacers made specifically for the 01/02. Lekkie makes several rings for the BBS02 with different diameters and offsets. They likely have something that would work with few or no spacers that will get the teeth within a MM or two of the frame which is what you want.

        2) Some of my gears are unusable as the chain is not long enough to fit over them anymore with the bigger chainring, should i get a new longer chain?

        Yes if the chain isn't long enough you need a new and longer one. You may need to shorten the new chain so you will need a chain tool to press the pin out of the new chain to shorten it. There are very inexpensive ones available that work fine for a couple uses or to carry in your pack for trail side repairs. There are videos online showing how to figure out the chain length. I believe Park tool has a good video showing how to size a new chain.

        Chains are mainly sold based on the number of speeds on the rear, you don't count the front if it had more than one there. Sometimes there is also a brand compatibility issue to but that is mainly on the newer 11 and 12 speed stuff. 7, 8,9 and most of the 10's seem pretty universal. Read about the chain you are thinking of buying to find out if its one that requires a new and special pin every time its assembled. If it does it will usually come with one but you may want to make sure you can buy spares. This is also where you need the chain tool to install the new pin.

        You will also want to pick up something usually called a quick link to fit your new chain. Even if you choose to use the new pin method to install it you should carry a quick link and a chain tool to make emergency repairs on the trail. Personally I run quick links all the time. Just makes it much easier to get the chain off for major cleanings and repairs and I'm not that hard on em so I have never had a failure.


        3) NB - I am unable to change gears while the motor is engaged, just nothing happens when i try shifting gears. Do I need to buy the gear sensors to enable shifting through gears or is something wrong here? Are the gear sensors worth buying?

        This problem could easily be the chain length issue. Also check your installation work to make sure you didn't pinch the shifter cable somewhere with either the motor or maybe some cable ties holding down wires or your battery.

        4) Because of being unable to change gears while riding, I set the bike to always be in the highest gear. Will this drain the battery faster?

        Probably. The motors like to spin right on the edge of as fast as most people can pedal. If you can barely pedal fast enough to keep up with the motor that's its happy spot. If you are running pedal assist its fine to get it down in a more comfortable speed and there your effort works with the motor so its not hard on the motor or range but if you are running throttle only you want to select a gear where you can barely or maybe even can't keep up pedaling.

        b) How long should a 13ah battery last?

        I like to use 2 miles per amp hour as an initial ballpark number. Some people only get one or even less, some get 3. 4 isn't that common but is possible with a lighter person on a light bike on very flat pavement with no wind and no stop and go traffic. In the USA we can get that on former railroad lines that have been converted to bike trails. They tend to be flat with trees to shield you from the wind. Riding in a city with traffic and up and downs is going to be more in that 2 or 1 range. Looks like 2 miles is 3.2 km so your 13ah should be able to do around 42 km assuming you are doing some pedaling at close to normal bicycle speeds and there is no extreme hills. That 42 km should not be right to empty, should give you a little margin but as they say your mileage may vary.....

        c) Will a larger battery increase the top speed as well as distance?

        Top speed? Not enough to notice unless you bought a really poor quality battery the first time and your new one is very high quality. Distance yes. Think of the amp hours as the size of the fuel tank. If the 13 ah gets you 42km a 26 ah should get you 84km. Maybe slightly less because of the extra weight of the battery but E bikes tend to already be heavy not to mention most people that want an E bike are not skinny athletes so the extra battery weight won't be that big of a factor.

        5) I live in a wet country, what should i be waterproofing ?

        Yes. One of the big improvements when they came out with the HD was better waterproofing and even those have water issues. There are videos and forums talking about ways to improve the waterproofing of the BBS02. Also many people have found the seals and gaskets to have been damaged during assembly at the factory so if you expect it to get wet you really want to get in there and give it the best chance of surviving.

        b) If im leaving the bike outside should i always cover the whole thing with a bike bag, should i disconnect the battery and take it with me.. etc

        I would guess that you would want to bring the battery indoors just to be able to safely charge it. If you live in a wet area and have to store the bike outdoors I don't think it would be convenient or safe to run a mains cord out there and have a charger not rated for outdoor use where it could get wet. Likely much easier to bring the battery indoors for charging but think about where you do this and don't leave it charging when you are not home. It doesn't happen often but its possible for batteries and chargers to start fires. You don't need to build an explosion proof vault but just spend some time thinking about what if it went on fire when you decide where to store it and charge it. As for the temperature batteries are like people. They don't like to be too hot or too cold. IF they are working hard cooler is better but you don't want them to be near freezing especially when charging.

        6) Is the programming cable worth getting?

        I would not worry about it at first. They can be a hassle to get the correct drivers for them for your PC. IF you do get it working with your PC knowing what to adjust can be confusing especially if you have not really ridden the bike much yet. Most of the stock programming should give you a decent experience. Once you get all the other bugs worked out and ride it then maybe it would be worth getting it and learning how it works so you can really get it dialed in. Many of us had an idea how we thought things would work and how we wanted to set up the programming and bike but after we got riding we changed our plan quite a bit.

        7) The 6v headlight which came with the set doesnt seem to work, is that worth investigating or should i just get a proper one that doesnt need to connect to the motor.

        I have never worked on a kit that had the headlight connector but as far as I know if yours came with it it should just plug in and work. I think you hold down the + button on the display and that should turn it on and give you a little headlight icon on the display. Some displays this also changes the colors and brightness of the display to a night mode. Some displays apparently have a light sensor that does this automatically.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by 73Eldo View Post
          I have never worked on a kit that had the headlight connector but as far as I know if yours came with it it should just plug in and work.
          OP has a BBS02. I have one too. The headlight is likely an LED which means it's polar which means it won't work if you connect + to -. Because LEDs are diodes and diodes pass current only in one direction.

          The connectors on the BBS02 are NOT color coded nor are they keyed. I know that because I have one too. Most likely the OP did what I did the first time I plugged my headlight in and has connected it backwards (- to +) which will not damage the headlamp but it won't work and just holding down the + button will not fix that. Assuming OP read the manual and already knows how to turn the headlight on, OP should try reversing the connection pins. Once the correct polarity has been established it's a good idea to mark them so you know which pair are + and which pair are -.

          Comment


            #6
            If the existing chain is still in good condition then it's a shame to throw it away. You probably only need to add about 2" or 3".
            There are apps available that will ask you a few simple questions and then tell you how long your chain should be. Search for bike chain length calculator.
            Measure the length of the existing chain and subtract that from the length recommended by the calculator... the difference is how much you need to add.

            Comment


              #7
              Chains are cheap... I spend ~$30 for hyperglide 11sp - 7sp are silly cheap... got to buy chain anyway to make longer

              Rule of thumb is if you run the chain around the largest cog and ring bypassing the derailleur to make sure it is at least two links longer than what that would take... I find it takes a bit more with really large cassettes and even with a small 7 speed I'd likely go four more links and take a couple out only if it was a problem...


              As far as the other concerns

              Setup the derailleur on a stand - get it right! It's not that hard

              Try not to shift under power, it's really hard on things

              Gear sensor are great, wouldn't ever not put one in

              Riding in the tall gears all the time is a bad idea - slow rpm at high torque is really hard on things including the motor parts and the controller and BBS02's aren't overbuilt like the HD's

              Way too many variables on top speed to say one battery or another will make a difference

              There are a lot of threads on water resisting things they will never be water proof and absolutely need to be covered in the rain and I would *never* leave a battery in the rain even under a cover - they are too expensive for that!

              Programming cables are great, wouldn't have a BBSxx and not be able to fiddle parameters - most stock tunes aren't very good and some are flat out terrible

              Most everyone with electric bikes just goes to rechargeable lights instead of trying to push a rope and get a decent light that is running of the bike power

              Comment


                #8
                If you ride a powerful mid drive E bike very much you will be buying chains and casettes fairly often. Tools, lubricants, connectors should be on hand at all times. Lube often. I like the Park CC2 chain stretch measuring tool. I also like Squirt chain wax. But if your chain comes pre oiled it's a PITA to switch over.
                KMC chains, and Sunrace steel casettes are both affordable and work well. KMC chain come oiled so an oil based lube for those.
                High end would be Wippermann E bike chain, and Squirt E bike wax lube. I still use the disposable Sunrace cogs. I don't ride in the dirt so I can get some miles out of them.
                Everything will last longer with a shift sensor installed.
                if you use the tool-less chain connector links buy a few extra and don't reuse them. Carry a spare one with you.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Thanks for replies, ill get a new longer chain. Heres photos of the drive setup

                  Comment

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