Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Hopefully, the big wiring thread

Collapse
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • DukeMcC
    replied
    Recently purchased a controller with Julep waterproof connectors. Seemed like a great idea until I started to connect it up. Each connector/cable run cost 9-15 dollars. You need motor, throttle, display,Pas and brake. 50 dollars in wiring just to hook up a controller. Then you find there's a difference in displays and good luck matching up if you don't know difference in 810, LED, LCD, S900 etc.

    Leave a comment:


  • Lord Zene
    commented on 's reply
    I’ve used them for many things like car stereos but really because I was given to try. I liked the idea but noticed I had a tendency to over heat. It seams that the melting point of the solder is too close to the burning or flash point of the insulation so they can end up a little crusty. The other thing that sent me right back to solder and heat shrink the old way was the price. The old way you can solder more than a thousand connections for a few bucks. Those connectors are 20 cents each on the super cheap. By the way I don’t use a torch or flame on them to have them burn it’s just a heat gun. They are lazy easy though.

  • Lord Zene
    commented on 's reply
    Standard Klein crimper. I dare you to pull it apart even with cheap connectors. Don’t be shy when you squeeze that thing. But I can agree with your concern. I know that I need less space to solder then to crimp so I stopped crimping a while ago. That’s with a good iron a little different if your in the go. The issues I see most on all of these bikes. (Just gonna leave here instead of taking up more space) is the wire size. I’m an electrician by trade know code through and through but know law too. Therefore I know how far I can stretch something before it becomes unsafe if faulty. The wire sizes per amps on all of this stuff is crap Bjt it’s ok in short runs and short bursts I’m just starting to play with these and I can see blowing up controllers will be common place while I tweek to get what I want out of these controllers. A pet peave is the controller labeling. It’s misleading sms sometimes there to rip people off. Just put max voltage and amps on it and call it a day. A simple formula does the rest and you can’t lie or cheat. My apologies for closing your post.

  • Diggs Ut
    commented on 's reply
    No need for the upload. I'm glad to hear it's been trialed and checked out.

  • paxtana
    replied
    I was helping a customer troubleshoot while back and guy kept blaming dielectric despite repeated explanations how that was not possible. So we shot a couple quick videos completely overpacking various xt90 connectors with dielectric grease, and showing no problem, bike still runs etc.. I could upload the videos if you like but the long and the short of it was that these fears are unfounded.

    Leave a comment:


  • Diggs Ut
    replied
    I have and use dialectic grease before but mostly to coat the exterior of connections after they are mated. I have had reservations about putting it inside an XT90 connector before mating as the grease is non-conductive and I worry about it interfering with conductivity when it is on mating conductive surfaces. After reading all of the above I guess my worries are unfounded. Thoughts?

    Leave a comment:


  • haibike in germany
    replied

    Leave a comment:


  • staplebattery
    commented on 's reply
    I was thinking of using cat-5 for my hall sensor connection from motor to controller. Not the connectors, just the wire

  • staplebattery
    commented on 's reply
    i just realized that if that comment was cited without the forum it could easily be taken out of context...

  • staplebattery
    commented on 's reply
    I'm thinking I might leave slack in my wires on my next build so if there's a failure somewhere on the road I can always strip, twist and tape my way home...

  • staplebattery
    commented on 's reply
    I've heard the marine grade shrink wrap has the grease in it already. And I usually use recycled wire and components when possible. I think the good copper wire rarely fails it's usually the connections right?

  • Conor
    commented on 's reply
    No Im not planning on using an analyst, almost want bear minimum to get the bike running. I have a KEB72601. Have you any knowledge of where to gather more wiring diagrams for these motors. thanks

  • AZguy
    commented on 's reply
    DC flows through the entire conductor not just the outside. The skin effect may be what you are referring to is when there is AC current that creates an AC magnetic field that "pushes" the flow towards the outside of the conductor perpendicular to the direction of travel effectively increasing the resistance in the center.

  • AZguy
    commented on 's reply
    Nothing beats a *properly done* crimp but plenty of folks find the properly done part a bit tricky so these might have a space in time for those...

  • AZguy
    commented on 's reply
    I really like this stuff but there are a few caveats.

    Wash your hands or wear gloves - getting contamination, especially oils hurts it's ability to self-adhere.

    Plan the wrapping so that the end you start with gets completely covered by a wrap and then put some heat shrink over the last wrap to prevent it from unwrapping. It takes time for it to fuse and the end likes to come loose and will continue to unwrap.
Working...
X