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Comparison of BAFANG 750WATT GEARED MOTOR and YESCOMUSA 1000watt DIRECT DRIVE MOTOR

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    Comparison of BAFANG 750WATT GEARED MOTOR and YESCOMUSA 1000watt DIRECT DRIVE MOTOR

    I build my own ebikes and have been riding one that I built 2 years ago , which was a 1000 watt/48 volt YESCOMUSA direct drive rear hub motor I bought off ebay . This motor also came with the controller for around $179 shipped and it is listed as having about 25 NM of torque at 1000 watts . This generic motor has ran very well with a top speed around 35 mph using a 48 volt battery that can put out about 30 continuous amps and 50 amps max bursts. This means I have been able to put 2500 watts into this motor { but I did uprade the phase wires to heavier gauge and cut cooling holes in the side plates. My mian issue with this motor was lack of power for my 240lb body . Speed was fine, but torque for going up steep roads was dismal.

    I decided to purchase a 750 watt BAFANg geared hub motor that is rated for 48 volts and 80Nm of torque. I assumed the amount of power/ torque this motor would deliver, would be much more then the generic YESCOMUSA direct drive motor. I just laced this motor into the hub today, then filled the motor with ATF oil for cooling. I'm using this motor in the exact same bike/ setup that the YESOMCUSA motor was mounted on . I am very disappointed in the performance of this Bafang { cost $220 and it did not come with a controller} . I thought for sure, that its rating of 80 NM of torque compared to the YESCOMUSA 25 NM of torque, would deliver a incredible boost in power/ torque.

    Yes, the BAFANG does have a bit more power, but it sure does not seem like it is 300 - 400% more then the YESCOMUSA. Keep in mind that the 80 NM of torque is for a rating of 750 watts being pumped into the motor , but my setup was able to pump 2000-2500 watts, which I assumed would mean the torque output would rise from 80 NM to over 200 NM of torque.

    I would have to say, that the less expensive YESCOMUSA direct drive hub, was a better deal , since it only cost $179 and came with a controller, while the BAFANG cost more and did not come with a controller.

    The only 2 benefits I can see of the BAFANG MOTOR over the YESCOMUSA motor is , it is smaller/ lighter and it freewheels without any cogging.

    Moral of story, I think the YESCOM direct drive motor is a better value, cause its $50 cheaper , comes with a controller, and delivers similar performance and seems to be a bit faster top speed, but with a little less torque.,

    I was expecting the BAFANG to have so much torque, that it would pop wheelies from a standstill if I punched the throttle . It doesn't have anywhere near that type of power/ torque.

    I'm now guessing, that to get that type of wheelie popping performance, one would need a motor capable of 400 NM of torque or more.

    Does anyone know if the hi performance direct drive motors like LEAFBIKE or MXUS, have that type of hi torque , on a 48 volt system to pull wheelies ?

    #2
    Originally posted by rumme View Post
    ....using a 48 volt battery that can put out about 30 continuous amps and 50 amps max bursts. This means I have been able to put 2500 watts into this motor....
    Are you using a wattmeter to to validate the power you are putting into your motor during each test run? Guesses based on a manufacturer's nominal rating are not a reliable indicator of actual battery output at a given moment. You will be able to get a better understanding of the relationship between input power (electrical) and output power (torque at a given RPM) buy experimenting with a watt meter.

    I would also be skeptical of a manufacturer's torque rating. To be reliable a manufactuer would have to publish a graph similar to https://www.google.com/search?q=moto...3sIoXNkeca4eM:

    I am neither agreeing nor disagreeing with you claim that you feel one motor is a better value than the other. I am just urging caution when using numbers to prove that claim

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by funwithbikes View Post

      Are you using a wattmeter to to validate the power you are putting into your motor during each test run? Guesses based on a manufacturer's nominal rating are not a reliable indicator of actual battery output at a given moment. You will be able to get a better understanding of the relationship between input power (electrical) and output power (torque at a given RPM) buy experimenting with a watt meter.

      I would also be skeptical of a manufacturer's torque rating. To be reliable a manufactuer would have to publish a graph similar to https://www.google.com/search?q=moto...3sIoXNkeca4eM:

      I am neither agreeing nor disagreeing with you claim that you feel one motor is a better value than the other. I am just urging caution when using numbers to prove that claim
      I'm using my cycle analyst that's on my ebike to validate my voltage/ amp/wattage numbers...so they should all be fairly accurate.

      Bafang is a well known company, and I would think their factory ratings of 48 volt- 750 watt- 80 Nms of torque, would also be fairly accurate. As I mentioned, I can tell this Bafang motor has a bit more torque then the generic YESCOMSA motor , but it isn't that much better , when you consider the YESCOM is rated around 25 Nms and the Bafang is rated at 80 Nms. In other words, It doesn't feel like 300-400% more torque .

      Comment


        #4
        Have you checked the programming of the Bafang. Many dealers limit the BBS02 to 18 amps so they have fewer warranty problems. The Bafang will put out 1260 watts with a fully charged 48 volt battery, when set to 25 amps. Also, what chainring are you using? The Bafang comes with a 46 tooth which is way too big. Put on a 32 tooth and you can pop wheelies.

        Comment


          #5
          Just a heads up on the DD I feed 2600w to the DD using a 52v 24ah battery
          with a BMS that puts out 50 amps continuous and 70 amps max
          and it is verified by the Cycle Analyst the greatest ebike tool in the solar system
          And it wont power wheelie
          This may be a stupid question but I just have to ask why do you want to pop wheelies
          Cheers dude

          Comment


            #6
            Wheelies can depend a lot on the bike geometry. But generally a 9C/Yes DD motor pulling 1-2kW in 26" wheel isn't gonna be a wheelie machine. Crank it up over 3kW though and reduce wheel diameter a few inches, look out.

            There’s always pros/cons between DD and geared hub motors. This type of performance comparison is often Apples vs Oranges since here may be RPM/V differences which can skew any final results.

            But yeah, in practice a person can hammer DD motors with higher V*A harder than geared hub motors. They simply tolerate over-volting better and there’s no gears/clutches to survive abuse.

            CA (cycle analyst) results are only as reliable as the calibration settings/adjustments. I dunno any reliable way to calibrate a CA except too use a known Amp meter to compare while adjust the CA shunt setting in advanced menu.

            It is a linear Ampere relationship so that a person could use a small test load to calibrate using a DVM which might only have up to 10A scale.

            Comment


              #7
              Yes, calibrating the CA was a pain in the tuches.

              I had to borrow a friend's clamp on fluke meter to calibrate the thing because i didn't a Amp meter with a 60 Amp rating that I trusted to test against. At the time I wasn't sure if higher current would cause heating and non-linear behavior in the shunt. Kind of a chicken or the egg thing for a new builder.

              The refresh rate is too low to get accurate readings during hard acceleration. For that, nothing beats a known shut attached to an oscilloscope :) Granted, a oscilloscope is a cumbersome for daily rides :(

              That being said. I really like my CA for troubleshooting and monitoring my systems.
              Last edited by funwithbikes; 03-29-2017, 11:33 PM.

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