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    Help me upgrade my Ancheer electric bike

    I bought this some time ago, i am very unhappy with the performance of the motor and the battery, the rear wheel in general is just awful: https://www.amazon.com/Ancheer-Elect.../dp/B01AU7KWXC

    I am looking for a new rear wheel and motor, something with a detachable cable to let me slide the entire wheel off when need be, as this ancheer doesnt let you do that and has a permanent power cable with no detachability. If anyone can take a look at the specs on this stock bike and recommend some replacement parts in the ways of the rear wheel/motor and perhaps a much better battery, I would appreciate it.

    I am after increased speed, but not too much. I clock 15-18 max mph but it throttles down automatically after just 5-8 minutes on a full charge. After that, I get about 30 minutes at 12-15 mph. hoping for a nicely improved rig As well as significantly better battery and endurance before the battery goes out. If I can improve both the speed and duration of riding time, Id be very happy.

    Battery budget 200$. New rear motor and wheel hub $300. Help is very appreciated.

    #2
    Originally posted by Mjulius View Post
    I bought this some time ago, i am very unhappy with the performance of the motor and the battery, the rear wheel in general is just awful: https://www.amazon.com/Ancheer-Elect.../dp/B01AU7KWXC

    I am looking for a new rear wheel and motor, something with a detachable cable to let me slide the entire wheel off when need be, as this ancheer doesnt let you do that and has a permanent power cable with no detachability. If anyone can take a look at the specs on this stock bike and recommend some replacement parts in the ways of the rear wheel/motor and perhaps a much better battery, I would appreciate it.

    I am after increased speed, but not too much. I clock 15-18 max mph but it throttles down automatically after just 5-8 minutes on a full charge. After that, I get about 30 minutes at 12-15 mph. hoping for a nicely improved rig As well as significantly better battery and endurance before the battery goes out. If I can improve both the speed and duration of riding time, Id be very happy.

    Battery budget 200$. New rear motor and wheel hub $300. Help is very appreciated.
    It looks like you have a 36V controller, so that voltage will limit your speed. Any hub motor can be laced in the rim, as long as you keep in mind that your controller is 36V. Can you post a picture of your controller? One could almost assume that it is a Xie Chang controller, but assuming is bad.

    Making the rear wheel detachable is as easy as soldering a connector in to each of your three motor wires, which are probably yellow, green and blue 10 gauge wires. I use XT150 bullet connectors at the motor end and Anderson SB75 connectors at the controller end.

    The first ebike that I built had 250W of power, and it was not nearly enough for me.

    If you were able to expand your budget to include a new controller, you could run 48-52V and get a higher top speed. This would allow you to pick a complete motor, controller and battery system that is designed to work together. I think that you would be happy at 48-52V drawing a continuous 15-20A.

    This may be a good place to start: https://lunacycle.com/ebike-kit-1000...or-conversion/. This kit solves throttle and e-brake issues for you. While it would risk blowing your budget, a complete kit would greatly simplify your project.
    Last edited by commuter ebikes; 08-14-2017, 07:07 AM.

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      #3
      Scrape together a few more bucks and get the kit commuter ebikes refers to there and a 48 or 52V Luna battery and you'll be in hog heaven with plenty of speed and increased range. A really nice thing about that kit is it's already set up with Higo connectors...........EZ installation and those connectors are IMO way way better than the ones you get on most hub motor kits. The battery you're using now is 8 amp hours, stepping up to a battery with 11.5 to 13.5 ah would mean since you're after increased speed but not too much you'll have a lot more range if you're conservative on the throttle, yet you'll have a lot more speed on tap if you need it to get out of the way of a car or something.

      Added: don't forget a set of torque arms, you'll need them, I bought the ones Luna sells, they're pretty thick and not real expensive, work nicely.
      Last edited by Zippy; 08-14-2017, 07:50 AM.

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        #4
        Appreciated fellas. Would this be okay for now though until I can afford both a new motor and great battery?

        I really dont want a lot of speed, imo 20mph is terrifying enough on pot hole streets. I need extended range and battery life, the stock battery I have is a 36v 8ah, but would this 36v 20ah significantly improve my range? If I am getting 15miles roughly on a full charge with the current battery, I would hope to at least double this with the 20ah version ya?

        https://www.amazon.com/36V-20AH-LITH...V+20AH+Battery

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Mjulius View Post
          Appreciated fellas. Would this be okay for now though until I can afford both a new motor and great battery?

          I really dont want a lot of speed, imo 20mph is terrifying enough on pot hole streets. I need extended range and battery life, the stock battery I have is a 36v 8ah, but would this 36v 20ah significantly improve my range? If I am getting 15miles roughly on a full charge with the current battery, I would hope to at least double this with the 20ah version ya?

          https://www.amazon.com/36V-20AH-LITH...V+20AH+Battery
          A 16Ah battery would give you double the range of an 8Ah battery, all other things being equal.

          Going from 8Ah to 20Ah capacity would give you 150% more range. You would get about 37.5 mile range with the 20Ah.
          Last edited by commuter ebikes; 08-22-2017, 12:15 AM.

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            #6
            A 36V motor will run about 18 mph with a 26" wheel. Sounds like your performance numbers are based on throttle only, as you're describing a range of about 8 miles if you only get 35-40 minutes of riding. I don't run throttle only on my bikes. It takes too much power.

            You can indeed get more range with a larger AH battery. The range will be proportional to the AH rating. Even then, you will only get 16 miles with a 16AH battery and those are not going to be $200. More like $500-600.

            To get more speed, you will have to upgrade to a 48V battery and a 48V controller.

            Maybe you're expecting too much. That particular ebike and everything else in its class was intended to go about 14 mph with pedal assist and probably go 14-20 miles depending on how much pedaling you do,.

            .
            Last edited by HarryS; 08-27-2017, 10:33 PM.

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              #7
              I swapped in a 48V battery into my 36V kit bike. Wow, I forgot how much this boosts performance. Top speed went from about 18 to over 24 mph. I was happy with the original performance so I'll stay with 36V, but maybe this could work for you. If you keep it under 18 mph, and add some pedal assist (it will be a lot easier), maybe you can get some decent range with a 10-12 AH battery.

              If your controller can take 48V, you can get away with a battery change. On the other hand a 20A controller isn't expensive if you just get a simple one without an LCD. Requires some electrical competence to install.

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                #8
                There are 8 wires, 3 large and 5 small, I cut the cord to put a quick disconnect, whole lot of soldering and had at add an inch to the 5 small wires, took about 3 hours to do it right, I had to rig the bike from the hoist in my shop which took some time so I could work on it from a comfy position. don't cut that wire unless you have lots of time on your hands

                I also want to make some power upgrades, I went from 8.5ah to the 11.5ah don't feel much difference I put about 10miles a week and never use the 11.5ah batt. I think leaving the charger on for days weakens the battery, so I do my best to unplug when charged.I f'd up and ground out the rear tire brackets to put on some Kenda KOT 2.35s which are gnarly but rubbed from wideness, took off a bit too much w the die grinder and every now and then it pulls itself off one side, looking in to retighten fill the holes, have every welder but a tig and wondering if jbweld or a HC epoxy will stick. I want to fix the gear so my cadence lowers at 18mph so it's more like a road bike or downhill bike. Going to need a larger front ring I'm pretty sure. Has anyone dropped a 48v waterbottle type into the Ancheer e-bike with the 37v controller, I dont have time to open the controller to look at the Capacitors to see if they have some 48-50v in there, I have the skill to add more 18650's to upgrade my 11.5 to a 48v I'm pretty sure, It might need a new balance board and of course charger but were talking 75$ for charger high-end batteries and an hours work to make a 4-500$ battery(upgrading the 36v I never use. If there is any experience or knowledge anyone has to share please do so. Thanks for reading.

                My goals would be 25mph and to pedal it even faster.

                Comment


                • moarpower
                  moarpower commented
                  Editing a comment
                  I mean this in the most polite possible way: stop polishing that turd and build a real bike. Sell the Ancheer, eat the loss, and chalk it up to learning experience.

                  Build your own bike and spec the components based off what you did and didn’t like about the Ancheer. Don’t waste any more money. Start saving for something better instead. (I have used these exact bikes as examples of what NOT to buy on this forum several times.)

                  48V controllers use 63V capacitors. 48V batteries fully charge to 54.6V and 52V batteries fully charge to 58.8V. If you’re too lazy to check the capacitors then you are not the right person to be doing a battery upgrade. Keep researching and saving up for something better.
                  Last edited by moarpower; 04-17-2018, 07:19 AM.

                #9
                I'm always cutting those wires so I can have the 9 pin modular plug on a hub motor if it didn't come with one. Yes, it does take a while, I use crimp connectors on the three heavy wires. I think they're better for strain relief.

                If the original battery has the minimum current needed by the controller (and an Ancheer doesn't need much), more AH only extends range. More volts gives you speed.

                You should always look inside the controller. Take off the end cap. In some cases the case has a separate top that comes off, which makes it easier to inspect. If it only uses 50V caps, consider adding a separate 2S module. That would put you at 50,4V max, which probably is OK. You can practice your build skills on that module. I made a 3S module which I sometimes add in series to my 36V batteries. I bought a 12,6V charger.






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                  #10
                  What do you guys Know About the different products?hub and battery and controller. I have 350w hub and 48v 10.2 ah battery samsung. Need to go faster. It stops around 30km/t
                  New hub and controller?
                  in new in this. Seeking Some guidence.

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