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Installing a 1" steerer fork into a 1-1/8" straight or tapered headset (old school)

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    Installing a 1" steerer fork into a 1-1/8" straight or tapered headset (old school)

    This doesn't come up much these days, as almost all forks have 1-1/8" steerers nowadays, but I happened to have recently purchased a 1" steerer Exotic Carbon 46.5" Dsic brake fork that I originally used to allow 26, 27.5 or 29 inch disc brake wheels onto an Electra Lux Aluminum Cruiser frame. It worked great, but if I did it again, I'd use the 44.5" model. Even though it is stated to be a 26" fork, 27.5 and 29 in wheels with up to over 3" tires fit it.

    Anyway, now that the Electra Lux is back to shock 3spd coaster 26" form, I wanted to use the very light weight Exotic Carbon fork on my Soma B-Side. The 46.5" is the recommended correct length for this frame, but the headset I have in it is for a tapered fork (1-1/8" on top and 1-1/2" on the bottom). I had a 1-1/8" straight suspension fork on it originally, using a Cane Creek 1-1/8" fork race adapter that fits a 1-1/2" lower headset. They make them in steel (40 series) and alloy (110 series). I used an alloy one with the 1-1/8" suspension fork.

    After searching the web for a frame headtube shim/adapter from 44mm to 30mm without success I started experimenting with the 1" to 1-1/8" steerer shims made to run 1-1/8" stems on 1" steerer forks. I found that one of those shims with the lip on it works great on the 1" steerer for the top; just slide it into the 1-1/8" headset and then slide the 1" fork in. On the bottom you might be able to do the same with by sliding the shim on "lip first" and then simply install the 1-1/8" fork race, but I didn't have a lipped shim handy to try this. I wouldn't recommend using a non-lipped shim, because it is possible that it might slide up out of the fork race under use.

    What I did find is a thread overseas from years ago in which a rider was trying to solve the same problem. He noted that his old 1" headset that normally goes into the frame headtube was almost exactly 30mm and the hole in a 1-1/8" fork race is as well. He speculated that he could simply slide the 1" lower headset into the 1-1/8" fork race and run a double set of lower headsets to make it fit. The thread never stated if he did this or if anyone else had tried it, so I thought I would because I already had all the parts on hand.

    I put a piece of sandpaper around a screw driver handle and rotated it inside the alloy Cane Creek 1-1/8" to 1-1/2" fork race adapter to widen it just a little so the 1" headset would slide into it. It worked!

    After installation, I measured the headtube angle. It came in right at 68*; just where I like it!
    Last edited by Rider; 12-03-2017, 03:19 PM.
    MOVING BACK TO PEDAL...
    2020 Banshee Paradox V3 1x11 (pedal)
    2018 Soma Wolverine 3spd IGH Belt Drive (pedal)

    #2
    Great post! Thank you.

    Comment


      #3
      The lipped shim arrived and was installed between the 1" steerer and the 1-1/8" upper headset. I ordered a longer lipped seatpost 1" to 1-1/8" shim too. I plan to cut it just above the lip and install it in place of the second lower 1" headset under the fork race with lip end down. I will use the rest of the seatpost shim remaining without a lip as a 1-1/8" stem shim along with other stem shims I have to use all 1-1/18" spacers. Putting a like lipped shim under the fork race I think is a cleaner setup. Of course if someone offered proper sized shims/adapters then using slit shims would not be necessary. I may also install a little piece of wool or something similar into the small slit on each end of the headset to seal off the headtube from the elements.
      Last edited by Rider; 12-05-2017, 08:15 AM.
      MOVING BACK TO PEDAL...
      2020 Banshee Paradox V3 1x11 (pedal)
      2018 Soma Wolverine 3spd IGH Belt Drive (pedal)

      Comment


        #4
        I realise this post is 3 years old, but I have the same problem. I have a custom made Italian front fork with a relaxed rake and spring curve to it that makes a bike ride like a Rolls Royce. It has 1" threaded steerer, made in 2016 by an Italian bike maker who has been making classic frames since 1898. I recently bought a 1999 Mercedes-branded aluminium bike with a chrome steel front fork that has zero flex, with a 1 1/8th" threaded steerer. I want to replace it with the Italian fork.

        Can you tell me where you bought the lipped shims and if there is a part number, that would be helpful?

        Thanks
        Custom 1" steerer fork
        Custom made 1" steerer fork
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        Attached Files

        Comment


          #5
          The simple solution is always awesome to discover! Nicely done.

          Jose

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Slowcycles View Post
            I realise this post is 3 years old, but I have the same problem. I have a custom made Italian front fork with a relaxed rake and spring curve to it that makes a bike ride like a Rolls Royce. It has 1" threaded steerer, made in 2016 by an Italian bike maker who has been making classic frames since 1898. I recently bought a 1999 Mercedes-branded aluminium bike with a chrome steel front fork that has zero flex, with a 1 1/8th" threaded steerer. I want to replace it with the Italian fork.

            Can you tell me where you bought the lipped shims and if there is a part number, that would be helpful?

            Thanks
            Custom 1" steerer fork
            Custom made 1" steerer fork
            Click image for larger version

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ID:	117782
            Someone made a post a week or so ago about disc brakes on a Townie. He gave a link for the adapter he used. They also make headset reducers that should work for you. https://www.sellutionmtb.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=1477

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by calfee20 View Post

              Someone made a post a week or so ago about disc brakes on a Townie. He gave a link for the adapter he used. They also make headset reducers that should work for you. https://www.sellutionmtb.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=1477
              Thanks, I ordered a set. Now, the next question is the bearings. The 1" steerer thread is requires a 1" locknut and washer. But what is the bearing and race? 1" or 1 1/8" I suppose I will find out when I take it apart, but don't want to do that until I have parts on hand since delivery of parts can take two weeks.





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              Last edited by Slowcycles; 1 week ago.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Slowcycles View Post

                Thanks, I ordered a set. Now, the next question is the bearings. The 1" steerer thread is requires a 1" locknut and washer. But what is the bearing and race? 1" or 1 1/8" I suppose I will find out when I take it apart, but don't want to do that until I have parts on hand since delivery of parts can take two weeks.





                Click image for larger version Name:	Bicycle_headset_exploded_view-en.png Views:	0 Size:	338.3 KB ID:	117871
                I kind of figured you had that stuff from the old bike. Here is a thread that I had with "rider" about a 1" steerer installed into an old cruiser frame. https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...-project/page2 Posts 20 and 21 are the most relevant. I believe that is the headset you will need but you will have to use a clamp on stem from your new bike with a 1 1/8 to a 1" adapter. I don't know how those nuts would work with that crane head set.

                here is a link for Crane creek maybe they could help you out with some info. Any older bike shop worth its salt would have all of those parts in that picture you posted.

                https://canecreek.com/products/forks/

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