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Commensal Meta full suspension BBSHD build

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    Commensal Meta full suspension BBSHD build

    Hi,

    I'm going to keep this simple and use pictures, you all read lots of build stories and mine is no different

    It started with a Giant Seek 1 with a IGH Alfine 8 with an hub centric bottom bracket. So warning to all hub centric owner and future owners read here: http://electricbike.com/forum/forum/...shd-to-my-bike

    So now you know I bought a Commencal Meta for comfort and mountain climbing/descending.

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    This is the kit and spare part (nylon gear, thrust bearing and clutch) just in case

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    This is the testing rig, just got the wires all messed up but it's working.

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    This is 2 mins later, chain jumped and hanger bent and voila!

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    So this is the final bike, I won't make it any better right now... I will powder coat the frame satin black in a few week!

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    That was a close fit:

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    UPDATE:

    Tore the bike appart to replace the pivot bearing.

    Sent the frame to the powder coater:

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    Go this today:

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    And the all black Eclipse

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    Also got this...Small upgrade, SLX ice tech brakes and goodies


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    SECOND UPDATE:

    I installed the SLX brakes and ice tech front rotor and now it's braking like I ever hopped for, the SLX are the best I ever ridden so far! 203mm front and back!

    Yeah and that seat is a great buy too! cheap, solid for hard trails and very comfortable.

    Got rid of the big 20ah batt pack and bought 2 mini 30Q that I run in parallel : I LOVED THEM, so much better than having a 10lbs backpack! Heck even one of these batt stay relatively cool during long an steep full throttle climbs, imagine 2 in parallel!!!

    http://lunacycle.com/batteries/packs...-6ah-3-pounds/

    And because I could not find a bike bag that would fit the cube under the seat and a small and nice little triangle bag, I got impatient and padded the batt with foam mats and wrapped it in a tire tube, it does not move at all! Rock solid!

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    Attached Files
    Last edited by Sebz; 09-06-2016, 03:20 PM.

    #2
    Hey,

    Looks good.

    The new color sounds like a winner too.

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks,

      Also I installed the speed sensor, it was perfectly aligned and very very close to the wheel and it could not mesure the wheel speed, it was jumping between 10-35km/h at full unloaded throttle...it should have read 80km/h or more.... i tried dozens of positions and could not make it work properly. at the end I tightened the magnet and it striped.... I used another magnet from my other bike and at full throttle it flew of the wheel and could not find it....

      Comment


        #4
        Sebz,

        Any idea why your derailleur broke? Did it break while shifting or on a big bump? Did it overshift?

        Chain not long enough for new chainring, maybe? Or, maybe the chain wrapped around too far and got sucked in with suspension/bump input, due to being too long?

        If your previous chainring was a different size than the one on it now, the chain length should be adjusted accordingly so you have optimal tension on the derailleur. You want it as short as it can be without binding, to maximize chain tension without breaking anything. 2 full links longer than the lowest gear requires, with worst case suspension position, is the guideline for most setups. Maybe look that up and double check when you put it back together.

        I don't see many mid-drive builders mention matching the chain length to the new gearing, but it's sometimes critical, and always a good idea.

        ---

        The speedometer magnet should be roughly aligned with the middle of the sensor body - if I remember correctly there are 2 lines on the sensor to show where.

        My magnet is about 5mm away and works for all speeds up to 50 kmh, as fast as I can go. I did have to play with the magnet distance to get it consistent.

        The red light on the sensor should light up once for every revolution as you spin the wheel. If it skips some signals, try moving the magnet. (If speed is reading too low and jumping, it's missing some signals).

        Good luck with it.
        Fabrication is fun! Build something today. Show someone. Let them help. Inspire and share. Spread the desire.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by JPLabs View Post
          Sebz,

          Any idea why your derailleur broke? Did it break while shifting or on a big bump? Did it overshift?

          Chain not long enough for new chainring, maybe? Or, maybe the chain wrapped around too far and got sucked in with suspension/bump input, due to being too long?

          If your previous chainring was a different size than the one on it now, the chain length should be adjusted accordingly so you have optimal tension on the derailleur. You want it as short as it can be without binding, to maximize chain tension without breaking anything. 2 full links longer than the lowest gear requires, with worst case suspension position, is the guideline for most setups. Maybe look that up and double check when you put it back together.

          I don't see many mid-drive builders mention matching the chain length to the new gearing, but it's sometimes critical, and always a good idea.

          ---

          The speedometer magnet should be roughly aligned with the middle of the sensor body - if I remember correctly there are 2 lines on the sensor to show where.

          My magnet is about 5mm away and works for all speeds up to 50 kmh, as fast as I can go. I did have to play with the magnet distance to get it consistent.

          The red light on the sensor should light up once for every revolution as you spin the wheel. If it skips some signals, try moving the magnet. (If speed is reading too low and jumping, it's missing some signals).

          Good luck with it.
          The weak spot was a universal derailleur hanger and a missing 10mm quick release adaptor (the wheel was off of by a few degrees which misaligned the cassette with the derailleur), with the misaligned wheel under tension the cassette was not aligned with the derailleur so it tried to go from high gear to the axle/frame and jammed while peddling hard... The chain was really too small, I forgot to buy one before leaving to the country house. Chain tension is crucial, specially on a suspended bike, the good thing about this incident is that I now have a taller granny gear 36T vs 32T and a superbe catch mechanism on the derailleur so no chain jumping around!!!!

          Shimano XT shadow plus a new 10sp cassette/chain and Saint shifter and a bad ass derailleur hanger made for that frame and it's all good and rock solid!!!

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          Comment


            #6
            OK, that explains it, all right. Glad you quickly got it figured out and made improvements. Looks tough now!
            Fabrication is fun! Build something today. Show someone. Let them help. Inspire and share. Spread the desire.

            Comment


              #7
              UPDATE:

              Tore the bike appart to replace the pivot bearing.

              Sent the frame to the powder coater:
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              Go this today:

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              Also got this...Small upgrade, SLX ice tech brakes and goodies

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              6 hours later:

              All black Eclipse

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              Attached Files

              Comment


              • FolsomRider
                FolsomRider commented
                Editing a comment
                Just curious of the pivot bearing wore out from normal use or was damaged?

              • Sebz
                Sebz commented
                Editing a comment
                No, I changed them because I had to remove them for paint. I had to bang on them really hard to get them out...they were good for the trash after that!

              #8
              Update.

              now running 2 6ah mini 30Q in parallel! it's light and powerful!

              I wrapped the batteries in foam and used a spare bike tube to wrap them in place... it's not good looking but it doesnt move at all!

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              Comment

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