I installed a brand new BBSHD on my Giant full suspension MTB about two weeks ago and its been awesome. What I'd hoped for... turned it into a hyper-light dirt bike. Anyway today I set off and PAS was playing up... felt like it was on 4 when it was on zero, then an error code 12H appeared on the display, then it died all together.... I checked the connections all seem okay, I took out the three controller fasteners and checked the connections in there, seems okay all connected. I do give it a rinse with a hose after a ride.. but looked dry in there. So error 12H seems to be a controller issue. I ordered a new one but at like 120 dollars plus shipping from the States I'd be really upset if this new one goes in a couple of weeks too... Not covered under warranty which was disappointing... Was I just really unlucky and got a dud controller or is this common on the BBSHD? or are MTB single tracks just too gnarly for the BBSHD to handle and it shook itself to death? God I hope not this whole set up including bike cost me over 5 grand....
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BBHSD Controller gone bad in two weeks
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Hi PaulT. Can't really help with constructive advice other than to say my Giant Anthem BBSHD is still going fine with 1k on clock. The BBSHD/ Anthem is auwsome combination so stick with it. You're on a winner. Couple of little quirks but slowly ironing out the bugs here in Melbourne. I'd have thought your local supplier would have done the righty by you and sorted the issue though.
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Oh yes my bike is a 2018 Giant Anthem too, did yours have those two threaded tabs on the bottom bracket shell? Ive ground the front one off as you can see from the pic, had to for the motor to fit. If I grind it some more the motor will then pivot closer to the down tube to give a tad more ground clearance. You must've used the 41mm adapter insert so the BBSHD fit the BB of the Anthem? I got adapter from Luna cycle in the States.
My supplier wasn't local, Luna Mate in WA I'm in Brisbane.... interesting how the controller isn't covered under warranty.... I bet according to Australia consumer law itprobably is.....
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Hi PaulT. I converted a second hand 29er I got for under 1k on Gumtree. Think it's a 2014 model and didn't have that extra tab on the bottom bracket. I was too impatient to wait for delivery of spacers though and spent a day turning my own up on a lathe. Still making mods but generally very happy with the result and on the lookout for another couple to build for mates.
Is yours an up specked model Anthem. Mines the base model poverty pak but like to get hold of one with carbon rims and extra bling.
Sorry to hear about your supplier. I use a guy in Mickleham, Vic that advertises on eBay. His bikes are ordinary but he,s always keen to help and supply components. So far touch wood, I've never had a return issue though.
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I think they can take the thrashing. My failures have don't appear to be related to use. I have 5 BBSHDs. One threw a Hall Sensor code. Worked fine the day before and then didn't the next morning. My recent failure has me scratching my head. I don't know diddly, just go through the remove and replace thing.
It quit tooling around slowly in the woods, little load. I removed and replaced from the top down, on button, display, ending with the controller and nothing worked. Then I go backwards putting parts on a unit that is working. Neither of the controllers worked on a good kit. I am left thinking the motor ruined the original controller and the second one as well. All the other parts worked fine on another bike.
So I am staring at motor and two controllers on the bench and too afraid to touch either.
Is there anyway damage to the motor could cause damage to the controller?
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I have a multi meter, but I would need a guide for idiots that told me how to check. Thanks for the reply, it is good to know it is possible.
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On the 200 scale all combinations came in at .5
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I don't know the spec, but that is a plausible value I think? Max 100 phase amps at 50V, if controller could deliver it. If it's that simple...ME, not EE, here.
AZguy or others more capable in this area - if you see this, agree? Sounds OK?
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It would likely be best to use the diode setting that most DVM's have today and for that I would expect about 0.3-0.7V give or take depending on what you are measuring between. I'd measure them from the individual line to both the V+ and V-. The outputs are high impedance when "off" but have internal diodes from the outputs to the supplies.
Anyway using the diode setting going from the three outputs to V+ and V- and testing both polarities (swap the probes) they should all behave the same and we'd expect at a minimum to see three showing the low voltage to at least one of the rails on all three and some combination that shows high resistance on all three to at least one of the rails.
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Wouldn't it be great if Bosch or Yamaha or the like made a 1000w retro fit mid drive like the BBSHD. I wouldn't care if it cost twice as much which it would.... I'd buy it. It would be beautifully made and bullet proof. Have the Chinese ever heard of high tensile steel or the word "quality" ?
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Update - I have a bad controller laying around (I don't really know what's wrong with it) that I've been using to hack the bafang protocol and measured it. From all three phases to V- I get a bit over 0.6V when the negative probe is connected V- and open when it's the positive probe to V-. I get the exact same numbers probing to V+ - a bit over 0.6V when the negative probe is connected to V+ and open with the positive probe to V+.
It is a failed controller but this is exactly what I would expect to see....
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