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Gary Fisher Solsitice BBSHD project.

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    Gary Fisher Solsitice BBSHD project.

    I didn't actually do the coversion myself. But there's been enough tuning and modding that maybe I have something useful to offer anyway.
    The GF Solstice was a 2003 26" comfort bike that I wasn't rididng. I had added Sun Singltrack/XT discwheelset, and Avid BB5 brakes. The fork was a 60mm Rock Shox Serra 28mm tubes (Judy XC internals). 3X8 Drive. And a Thudbuster LT seatpost. Tires were 26x2 Hutchinson Acrobat flat protected street slicks.
    The BBSHD was great except the chain kept falling off, the cranks were 170mm (I'm 6"1" and 65 yr. old so not much of a spinner) and the 46x11 top gear was too short for me or where I ride.
    The first thing is the fork was bottoming out in the corners. I found a NOS upgrade metal preload a djuster for it, and a "heavy rider" tuning kit. It ended up with a 2 stage tune. 3/4" soft coil spring and the rest is the firm elastomer HD damping kit. Smooth on sidewalk and cobblestones, but can go 20mph down lumpy bike paths and drop off of curbs at 25mph without bottoming.
    Next was the brakes. I swapped around some parts I had and ended up with BB7 185mm front and rear. The rear caliper is a Chinese knockoff that will be replaced but it works for now. Since the bike and I weigh about 260# combined and 35mph is confirmed I decided to add metallic brake pads to the mix. They grip well under all conditions and are supposed to wear 5x as long as normal pads. This should save some brake adjusting. I like cable brakes because they wont pop a cylinder if the lever is pulled with a wheel off, and they can't boil the fluid under extreme use.
    I live in South Florida. Half of it's flat and the other half is under water. Suburban sprawl, and urban chaos describe the riding scene here. I avoid sharing the road if at all possible. Sidewalk riding is a viable option here. No pedestrians due to the hot/humid/rainy climate and sprawling layout. Fenced in and walled in subdidvisions provide 1/4 to 1/2 mile runs with no driveways or cross streets. Bike lanes are not a good place to ride on the main streets here. There's a new one a month old near here. There isn't a 10 foot stretch of curb that doesn't have tire marks from cars crossing the bike lane and hitting the curb. It's a divided road, no u turns, no side streets just bad driving.
    A temporary fix for the chain dropping was to install some random front derailler as a chain guide. Thanks to a post here I ordered the Bafang 130mm chainring adapter, and a 50T Chainring. Also thanks to a post here I ordered some Shimano E6000 175mm crank arms.Everything bolted right on and the chainline favors the 4 top gears I use most.
    While fighting the chain drop I installed a short cage derailler and shortened the chain for the 46x32 low gear i was running. I liked the 46x11 top gear for much of my riding but there's a 2 mile bicycle "Autobahn" on my route and I needed one more gear for that. I was running an 11-13-15-18-21-24-28-32 casette. To keep the short chain I used an XTR 11-12-14-16-18-21-24-28 casette I had. So total chain length is the same.
    The 50x11 top gear lets me cruise at 25mph. The 50x12 7th is the same ratio as the 46x11 so 20-23mph without spinning too much. The close gearing isn't necessary for the motor but it helps me with my limited range of cadence. The 50x28 low gear is enough for me but if multilevel parking garages are part of your world it wouldn't be enough. Most people would probably prefer the 11-32 casette.
    The 175mm cranks are what I'm used to. I even have some 180mm for one of my bikes. The difference from the 170mm is that with the 170s I would need to drop down a gear and spin. With the 175s I can hold the gear and muscle through slight climbs or headwinds. This requires some use of the ankles tro bring a couple extra muscles to bear.
    I've owned the conversion for about a month and have over 700 miles on it.
    His a list of my recommended urban riding accesories. Night Rider 650-750 Lumen headlights. These are full on off road nightriding lights.They don't have a flat cutoff to the top of the beam so keep them aimed low. I prefer the older ones with the obnoxious fast strobe for daylight traffic riding. The light isn't any good if they don't look. So an Airzounds Coast Guard approved air horn is needed. Texting, radio blasting, AC on. I don't care, they're going to look if it sounds like a truck is coming at them.
    i don't use the horn for pedestrians or on bike trails. I do always say "BICYCLE" from far enough away so they can react before I get there. Rear view mirror also.
    Horses are common here, and many paths have been closed to cyclists. Cyclists are a danger to horse riders. Horses are programmed to run away from anything they don't understand. Many riders here are inexperienced and have rented the horses. I never ride up close behind a horse. Look on Youtube for videos of people getting kicked by a horse. I follow at the same speed the horse is walking. They can see you. Approaching horsers I stop and get off the bike so the horse can see that I'm just a person. Horses can have other fears. i was following one horse that was OK until he came to a bridge over a canal. He was afraid of the bridge, and I was blocking his escape. I got off the bike and walked away from him.

    #2
    Well I spoke too soon. The dreaded chain drop has returned. I looked at the Wolf 50T narrow wide. It seems a little pricey ($84) but if that's my only option I'll go for it. Race face doesn't seem to go to 50T.
    My derailler/guide I had before won't reach the new chainline or I would stilll have it on there.The ring I have now is 3/32" listed for 1x systems and has a "shark tooth" profile that's supposed to help with chain drop.
    It used to drop the chain from bumps, or coasting. This time it swas under power in a lower gear/ shifting where I'm really cross chained. I haven't added the Shift sensor yet. I'm not sure that will help keep the chain on the front sprocket.

    Comment


      #3
      OK i've tracked the problem down to a lubrication issue. I had used a dry chain lube to avoid the mess of oil based lubes and after a few days it wore off and allowed the chain to stick to the front cog and climb off.
      I guess I'm riding a lot more, and a lot harder than before and need to up my game here. So any suggestions on a durable high performance chain lube?

      Comment


        #4
        I ordered a couple KMC 8 speed Ebike rated chains. My LBS says Wide narrow is the way to go for a 1x8 chainring, and Wolf is the only 50T 130BCD I can find.
        Wolf recommends a 10S chain for 1x9 with their chainring. Is anyone running a 1x8 Wolf Narrow Wide setup?

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          #5
          While looking around I came across a Surly 130bcd x 50T stainless steel chainring, designed for single chainring, no ramps and pins, not narrow/ wide though. They also offer 42,44,46, 47,48,49 sizes. Should be strong and wear well. Has anyone tried these?
          I'm going to make a chain guide anyway. It worked for the BBSHD 46T so why not just have one and be done with it.
          Last edited by Retrorockit; 09-16-2018, 12:52 PM.

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            #6
            https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...bshd-and-bbs02

            not typically about the ring itself but about the offset that it provides and therefore the chainline, although whether or not it is a narrow wide chainring does have an effect

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              #7
              I'm using the Bafang spider adapter and with 50T ring there's not a lot of room to improve the chainline very much. I'll space it in as much as possible. Surly also makes some casette cogs with the spacer built in and the spline allll the way across. I ordered a 14T. Width is for 9spd, but I can shim it. This will eliminate the only stand alone sheet metal cog in my casstte. The Surly catalog is worth a look.
              https://surlybikes.com/parts/drivetrain/cassette_cog

              Comment


                #8
                Well yeah you can't improve chainline unless you use an eclipse or lekkie equal or greater to 42t as the link explains. It needs to wrap around the secondary reduction housing and the spider does not do that

                only reason to not do it that way is if you have an intrusive chainstay or you plan on reworking the rear cassette or you plan on changing the rear to an igh

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                  #9
                  I'm not seeing 50T as an option on those. 48T is small potatoes over the 46T Bafang. 52T will make the chainstay issue worse and is not needed. Reworking an XTR casette with a forged spider would be kind of tough. I'm just going to see what happens with a Surly SS chainring, and a chain guide. I think if the chain can't lift up out of the chainring at the top then it can't go sideways either. I'm going to try and get an 11-32 casette and not use the lowest 2 gears except for creeping around pedestrians. The 50T I have was working for a while with no guide. It has ramps and pins and was made for shifting so I think I can improve on it quite a bit.
                  If I improve the chainline for the low gears I make it worse for the top 4 gears where I run it the hardest.
                  I'm going to see if I can master this setup. I also have a Rapid Rise derailer and Gripshift setup I want to try. I'm retired so I don't mind thrashing around with things like this.
                  But I do like IGH hubs, and the fact that 36 spoke rims are an option. I also own a Trek Navigator 400 7 speed IGH that was my wifes. Too small a frame for me. Too nice to part out. I may convert it as a guest bike once I learn my way around these things.
                  Last edited by Retrorockit; 09-17-2018, 06:17 PM.

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                    #10
                    I came across a Deckas 130 bcd 50T narrow wide ring for about 1/2 the price of a Wolf ring. It looks alittle too hollowed out for my idea of what a BBSHD needs. Has anyone used these?
                    https://www.ebay.com/itm/DECKAS-Sing...r=690515830517

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Not sure I see your point tbh. Any chain guide is going to cause increased wear on the chain itself and ultimately is not typically necessary.

                      Having a larger chainring than stock is fine but bldc motors want to spin fast and the bigger the chainring the more likely you are to be lugging it which could burn it out or prematurely wear out other components.

                      Not that it's not doable and I totally get wanting to have a nice pedal cadence or whatever. Even popping a granny gear on the rear to make up for it, but just a heads up it's not without risks and there are other ways to approach it.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        It's taking me a little time to get up to speed on 1x drivetrains. Never had one before. It's a little confusing because the bafang 46T had good chainline but dropped the chain from the start. Short chain, short cage derailler and front derailler as chain guide fixed it. I guess now I've caused a chainline issue that maybe a wide narrow won't fix.
                        My riding situation is not typical. Dead flat, and strong headwind and tailwind are normal. I spend most of my time in the 50x12, or 46x11 gear at 20-22nph.
                        Around here if your on a through street and it's rush hour and no bike lane you just run for your damned life! 30-35mph until you're someplace else. Also there are places here where i can cruise at 28mph with no one else around. I'm 65 years old, and never was a fast twitch muscle guy. I spin "sort of' but I know it doesn't really add up to much. A life of heavy physical labor and swimming in the ocean with fins will do that to you. If I don't have a long gear I'm just ghost pedaling.
                        Let's see- chain falls off, I fall in the road and get run over by 2 cars (typical around here) who don't stop to help. Or I run a chain guide and buy a new chain every now and then. Do the math.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I went back and tried the 11-13-15-18-21-24-28-32 Skimano Alivio casette again. The 13t 7th gear seems OK. I can cruise at 20+ MPH and it seems that the motor gives more assist whenI spin a liitle faster. I like the Alivio cassette. it's not much good for swapping cogs, all but the 11t are joined together so there are no loose cogs driving by themselves against the freehub. Plastic though, not a metal spider like the XTR stuff.
                          I got the Surly single speed cogs. Wide splines and look tough as hell. They go on the freehub in any position, and can be reversed also. The teeth are very long. 14T is as large dia. as a 16t Shimano. So I don't know if they can be worked into a casette and still shift. I'll probably test his at some point.
                          I installed the Surly Stainless Steel 50T chainring, a new KMC 8 speed E bike rated chain, and the Alivio casette above. I made a chain guide with a nylon peg, and SS washer. It only touches in the 50/32T cog.
                          That's my creeping around gear. I don't have any spacers yet to adjust the chainline in some. I think if I keep the chain lubed it will work all right.
                          I also got a Dekkas 50T Wide Narrow just in case. It has no counter bore in the bolt holes so it will go on either way but the bolts will stick out the back some. I put the Surly on backwards with the counterbore inside.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I've got some miles on it. Everything is OK. I lubed it with a wax dry lube, and ran all the gears while it was still wet so all cogs got coated. Went out and did some wheelies in the cross chained 50/32 and nothing bad happened. Since there's no aluminum in my drivetrain I think if i keep it lubed it will stay good. Happy with the Surly stainless steel 50T chainring. I'm probably going to keep my chainguide no matter what. Never dropped a chain with one installed. Peace of mind in South FL urban riding is hard to come by.

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                              #15
                              I think I've finally got a casette I like (almost). I ordered an 11-34 cheap Shimano casette. More or less a stack of loose cogs. I did a trial run, the 50x 34t was nice for a low speed gear. I didn't care for the 26T 7th speed. That's the one I use in traffic from stop lights and wanted a little more grunt there, and some strength too. The 11-13-15 top gears I already like. So I pulled the 34T and plastic spacer off and stuck them on the hub, Then stripped down my 12-28 XTR 8 speed casette and put the 4 gear forged spider on next. 28-24-21-18T, and finished off with the new 11-13-15T top gears.
                              So 11-13-15,then XTR 18-21-24-28, then 34T low cog. I've ordered a thicker 3/32" 15T cog to get rid of the last thin sheetmetal gear. I'll probably try a Surly 15T later for the wide spline.
                              My 11-32 Alivio casette wasn't touched so it's there as a spare. So is my 12-32 XTR which I run as 11-32 also.

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