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    Tandem install

    Installing a pedal assist mid drive motor, BHS02, and am wondering what cable do I need an extension for to go to the control head only. I am not using a throttle or the brake lever cut offs, just a straight up install for pedal assist only. Thanks in advance!

    #2
    The main harness extension cable is available in several lengths:


    Click image for larger version

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    Intro: http://electricbike.com/forum/forum/...ntro#post17033
    First build, Priority Eight / BBSHD / Nexus IGH
    Second build, 2018 Crust Scapegoat, BBS02 or BBSHD, Rohloff IGH
    Third build, 2018 Crust Evasion step-thru, BBS02, Shimano Nexus INTER-3 IGH

    Comment


    • Jsshort2302
      Jsshort2302 commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks. Has anyone out there extended the main cable themselves? Cut the connector off and added exact amount of extension wires needed and resoldered connector back on? What have wire is in there? The available lengths are going to mean several extensions are needed and that's just more connections to fail.
      My goal, at this time, kit not received yet, will be on a standard tandem. Stoked BB install, no throttle, no brake cut off. This is a pedal assist install only. I will need an extension cable at least 60 's as I do not plan to use the included 30" harness but to extent the controller cable out of the motor to the handlebar unit with only one connection. If there is no experience in this, I will post pics and details of my install.

    #3
    Do you already have the upper, "fan-out" cable - the one with 4 connectors on one end for the display, brakes, etc.? It looks like this:

    Click image for larger version  Name:	51Vg0CUgaGL._SL1000_.jpg Views:	1 Size:	60.7 KB ID:	80101



    If so, I think you'd only need one 24" main cable extension, to cover for the added length of the inter-BB bottom tube. Otherwise, yes people have extended the main cable themselves - just need a section of 8-conductor cable - 22 gauge would do, I imagine.
    Last edited by ncrkd; 4 weeks ago.
    Intro: http://electricbike.com/forum/forum/...ntro#post17033
    First build, Priority Eight / BBSHD / Nexus IGH
    Second build, 2018 Crust Scapegoat, BBS02 or BBSHD, Rohloff IGH
    Third build, 2018 Crust Evasion step-thru, BBS02, Shimano Nexus INTER-3 IGH

    Comment


      #4
      Originally posted by ncrkd View Post
      Do you already have the upper, "fan-out" cable - the one with 4 connectors on one end for the display, brakes, etc.? It looks like this:

      Click image for larger version Name:	51Vg0CUgaGL._SL1000_.jpg Views:	1 Size:	60.7 KB ID:	80101



      If so, I think you'd only need one 24" main cable extension, to cover for the added length of the inter-BB bottom tube. Otherwise, yes people have extended the main cable themselves - just need a section of 8-conductor cable - 22 gauge would do, I imagine.
      As I said, I do not plan on using the brake levers speed sensor or throttle, all I want is the cable for the display. Would I still need this "fan out" cable or can I just extent the cable coming out of the motor up to the display, where it looks like ties into the pedal assist buttons? That is all I am using this install for, pedal assist. Thanks.
      Still waiting for the package to arrive and I will start the install and post some pics. I know things are never what they seem, but looking at many single bike install videos, this really does look pretty straight forward.

      Comment


        #5
        The motor interface cable doesn't tie/connect to the pedal assist buttons. You still need the fan-out cable, unless you directly splice the main harness cable to the display interface cable, which I wouldn't recommend. The displays can and have failed. You'd also lose the ability to use the programming interface (which connects in temporarily, in place of the display).

        Click image for larger version

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ID:	80183

        Intro: http://electricbike.com/forum/forum/...ntro#post17033
        First build, Priority Eight / BBSHD / Nexus IGH
        Second build, 2018 Crust Scapegoat, BBS02 or BBSHD, Rohloff IGH
        Third build, 2018 Crust Evasion step-thru, BBS02, Shimano Nexus INTER-3 IGH

        Comment


        • Jsshort2302
          Jsshort2302 commented
          Editing a comment
          Thanks for this diagram. One thing I do not see is the connection from the display to the pedal assist buttons that is clearly shown in pictures as being directly wired into the display head? I can see that this fan out cable is required in the total install and that I would have to just tie back and cover all the excess connections I will not use, which is all except the cable to the display, in which case I would not lose the programming interface. If all is what I expect, I may just order a separate fan out cable, cut the connector off and build a non fan out cable connection straight to the display.

        #6
        For the pedal assist buttons, it depends on the display - some of the newer displays have integrated buttons. For the older displays such as the DPC-14 or DPC-18, there are two cable/connectors coming out of the display, one connects to the main harness and the other to the separate button control.

        The fan-out cables I have received have had protective caps on all of the connectors (not shown in the photo above).
        Last edited by ncrkd; 3 weeks ago.
        Intro: http://electricbike.com/forum/forum/...ntro#post17033
        First build, Priority Eight / BBSHD / Nexus IGH
        Second build, 2018 Crust Scapegoat, BBS02 or BBSHD, Rohloff IGH
        Third build, 2018 Crust Evasion step-thru, BBS02, Shimano Nexus INTER-3 IGH

        Comment


          #7
          Ok everyone, I have tried posting pictures from my tablet and ended up posting in the wrong area. Here goes another attempt. The install was performed on a Hokitika Hoka Tandem. I had absolutely no problems with the install, just three hiccups. The first was that I needed a BB spacer to give clearance on the right side chain stay. Due to hiccup number one, I had hiccup number two which was the stabilizer now required a bit MORE spacers and longer bolts to attach to the left side under the BB lockdown nut. (pretty sure those are not correct names for the items, but you probably know what I am talking about. I am posting pictures of this. Hiccup number three came as a complete wake up moment as I did not know, and I have been riding tandems for 10 years, and regular bikes for 30+, and I never knew that crank arms had the square taper mounting holes oriented two different ways! I just do not know the reasoning behind this, but if you were to hold a crank arm where the BB spindle mount is on top, you will see either a square or a diamond hole. The kit comes with diamond holes arms. I had to use the left side crank from the tandem due to the timing chain and it had a square hole, so when installed, it was not clocked right. To correct this temporarily, I just mounted the left side as normal, right side I used the triple crank to keep the clocking correct until the new crank arm comes in. It is ugly, but worked beautifully. My goal in all of this is to be able to quickly revert this back to a non-e-bike. I was even going to leave the front derailleur hooked up but the wide range of the cassette caused noise, so I just removed the derailleur but kept the cable tied up and in place.

          Anyway, on with the install. Prior to all of this, I was pretty much in the dark about this whole "e-bike" thing and tried to find out things like "how does the battery last", "can I run it as a pedal assist only", "is the BBSHD or BBS02 the right choice for a tandem" etc. Really guys, I just had no clue as to what to expect. I really got no good answers for any of my questions so I just dove right in knowing it was going to be a go, or I would just send the whole thing back. My choice was the BBS02 with the Shark 52V battery, I installed, after asking about extension cables etc, just as it came. I even got a 42 tooth chain ring as I just did not know how it was going to be with the stock 44. Well, after running a 25K trail race Saturday, my afternoon was spent on the install and charging of the battery. All hooked up and ready to go for a Sunday, yesterday. I built this as a pedal assist only so I did not use the brake lever or the throttle and I mounted the display on the stokers bar to giver her the "POWER". This was a tem install as I do, or did, plan to run an extension to my bar, but it worked out great. Now for the test ride.

          There were some things I wanted to know about this as, like I said, I had no clue as to what in the world this was going to be like. I left the display in the stock PA settings of 1-5. Set it with 26" wheels and that was pretty much it. We first wanted to see if the speed sensor was working. After starting in level "0" we verified speedo pretty much matched my Garmin, thumbs up. Next we wanted to move on to pedal assist, from now on, "PA". My wife clicked the + button to 1 and then had a spasm or something and did a double click and immediately after telling me it went to 2, we shot down the road like we were fired out of a cannon, or maybe like Lance Armstrong transformed himself and became my new stocker! At this point, the grin on my face quickly became laughter and we decided to go back to PA 0 and stop and reflect. A
          I also was able to confirm that when you stop pedaling, there is no longer force applied, I wondered about that, so this is a good thing. We dropped to 0, stopped, I looked back and my new improved stoker was grinning as hard as I was and we agreed to just try again and just do 1. We started, got going and this time she correctly went to 1 and again, we shot forward like a renewed youth had taken over, I mean it was absolutely invigorating! This was how we rode before her brain tumor and the subsequent radiation treatments to cure it 10 years ago! Seriously people, we went from struggling to get to and attain 15-17 MPH, to being able to get there and beyond very fast, so fast that we stopped again and I reset the display to give us the 1-9 levels of power and now at a 1, we are comfortably riding strong. I mean youngun' strong!! I tell you, if it weren't for having that triple chainring sticking way out there, our test ride would have went for miles longer, but we ended up riding a 25 mile loop at level 1 in the 1-9 setting. When we stopped, we always tried to go to 0 to start again, but the times we didn't, it was no big deal as it seems that it takes a few revolutions to get the power to kick in and all is well. We had absolutely none of the issues I read about how others were saying what a danger it is etc etc. If there is a danger, it is inherent of just being a new tandem rider because iy you are an experience tandem team, adding a motor is only a bonus, especially for us aging folks and some that maybe a bit disabled but still able to ride in the stoker position. This was an absolute game changer for us. My wife loved it, I loved it and we look forward to more of it. My one big question of "how long will the battery last" was not answered, but I can tell you what I experienced on this test ride. We started and the voltage on the display read 56.2. We rode very happily at level 1 and two at times, up and down rises, starts and stops, real neighborhood riding, for a bit over 25 miles and the voltage read 54.2 when we got home. That tells me doing a metric century will be a non-issue and probably a full century will be the same. Guys, to say it best, I AM ONE FRICKING SATISFIED LUNA CUSTOMER!!!!! If there are any questions anyone may have about my build, reach me at jsshort2302@gmail.com

          Comment


            #8
            Not sure why that first pic is so small, it just shows the spacers I used to fill the gap there. I can take a better pic with my phone and post later if someone really has to see or is just interested to see. Cheers!

            Comment


              #9
              Thanks much for the write-up, and glad it's working out. I came across a "square" crank arm, and wondered what that was about - didn't know about the tandem connection:
              Click image for larger version  Name:	1Pc-170mm-Aluminum-Left-Crank-Arm-Rhombus.jpg Views:	1 Size:	18.7 KB ID:	80877


              I can't come up with the reasoning for this either, and notice that it's not consistently used in tandem cranks - I see both Shimano and Campy "diamond" tandem crank sets.

              As far as assist, Superman powers! Beautiful tandem, glad to see it has the big brake rotors.
              Last edited by ncrkd; 1 week ago.
              Intro: http://electricbike.com/forum/forum/...ntro#post17033
              First build, Priority Eight / BBSHD / Nexus IGH
              Second build, 2018 Crust Scapegoat, BBS02 or BBSHD, Rohloff IGH
              Third build, 2018 Crust Evasion step-thru, BBS02, Shimano Nexus INTER-3 IGH

              Comment


                #10
                I can't figure out the square/diamond holes either, should have nothing to do with tandem or single, it just has to be consistent, which in my case it was not. But it's ok, Amazon had a square hole arm so I am good to go when I get it. I just hope I can stop grinning while riding so I can keep the bugs out of my teeth!

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