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Luna Remote on/off Solid State Switch with Motogadget m.unit blue keyless m.lock

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    Luna Remote on/off Solid State Switch with Motogadget m.unit blue keyless m.lock

    I am attempting to integrate my e-drive power system (Bafang BBSHD / EggRider) with a Motogadget m.unit Blue motorcycle electical controller and m.lock RFID keless entry lock. This is on a recumbent trike that has full DOT-style lighting system and horn.
    I would like to use the m.lock RFID key as the master "on" switch which would subsequently turn on a 12 V output on the m.unit to imitate the remote switch unit on the Luna Remote On/Off Solid State Switch, which would then turn on power to the drive unit. Do not know if will work as I do not know enough about the Luna unit.
    A. Documentation - I did not get any documents with the Luna switch - are there circuit diagrams or any other materials available that can inform me as to whether this can work? What voltage is that remote switch working with? What is the wire color code for switch vs lighting power?
    B. Does anyone have experience with using Motogadget m.units or m.unit Blue on an eBike rather than a gas motorcycle?

    Hi Muggsy,
    And welcome to the forum!

    I have and use a Luna SSR. The two middle wires in the control harness connect to the switch. Just a single pole typical switch, push on, push off. A relay contact could be used.(even a jumper if desired, I have done this) The two outer wires are for the LED power. On the relay it says 12vdc, but I have not measured it.

    I hesitate to mention wiring colors as they are often changed. And can even be reversed as I don't think the connector is polarized. If you look closely on the Luna product page you can see them switched in a picture.
    But for reference mine are as follows...

    Left to right.

    If you need actual readings (voltage, amp draw)let me know. But I would think you could use the m unit contact as a switch for the two inner wires. With a 12 vdc LED to verify operation, attached to the outer two wires.

    Click image for larger version

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    Switch mounted in cockpit...

    Seeing if it fits...

    See my completed Magic Pie V5 rear hub motor E-Bike build HERE.


      Hi. Tommycat,
      Thanks for your detailed reply. The m.unit outputs are 12V (it assumes it is controlling a 12V electrical system [starter, ignition, lighting, horn, etc.] on an internal combustion motorcycle).
      I am concerned as to what the voltage is of the circuit being switched on the Luna SSS - maybe 5V? Do you know whose SSS device this actually is? That has been covered over so I cannot look up specs.
      This seems like kind of a chicken-and egg problem. I have a 52V battery and also 12V and 5V DC converters onboard co-located with the m-unit and the Luna SSS. I understand how to use the Luna device to turn the 52V bus on and off; and I understand how to use the m.lock / m.unit combo to turn the 12V Bus (which is powered from the same 52V battery source) on and off. Integrating the two events is what I am unsure how to do.
      And I need to have the m.lock/m.unit be the way to start the show, not the Luna pushbutton - need a lock.
      Last edited by Muggsy; 04-17-2019, 04:34 AM.


        I follow you...

        Rats, I looked up the manufacturer of the SSR once to verify it could handle my controllers capacitors inrush current. But failed to write it down. Looking to see if I can find it again.
        See my completed Magic Pie V5 rear hub motor E-Bike build HERE.


          How did you identify the SSR mfger?
          Forgot to mention that the first thing that happens coming out of the battery into the elec control box is a pre-switch, hardwired connection to the Luna switch, the 12V DC converter, and the m.lock/m.unit. So all 4 devices are powered at all times, but the m.unit is not in "on" state - all outputs off.
          The motor drive is disconnected/connected by the Luna switch; the m.unit (and all connected to its outputs) is turned off/on by the m.lock. I need to somehow close the control circuit on the SSR from the m.unit/m.lock.
          I thought about the reverse - making the Luna switch output also go to the ignition switch input on the m.unit; however, that leaves me with a pushbutton with a picture of a lock on it, not an actual "ignition" lock.


            By pasting an image to Google image search, and looking at the results. Do you think I can find it again! Arrrrggggggg. Sorry.

            So the m.unit system is armed when ever the pre-switch is on? As it only uses 2mA in this state, that would not be a worry. Why not use a 12 volt relay that is enregized by the m.unit, with the contact used in place of the SSR provided switch. This being actuated when the m.lock is within distance. The relay would not have to be very be big at all. I would think a small electronic switch or mini relay would work... 12vdc coil with a single N.O. contact.
            See my completed Magic Pie V5 rear hub motor E-Bike build HERE.


              Yes, that would work - I had that same thought after I asked.

              Meanwhile, I have 'breadboarded' the basic motor power circuit and connected a battery. I have connected the 12V DC converter and m.unit also, but have not connected the m.lock yet. Will need to do that tomorrow. Run out of time for now.

              Also thought maybe I could just wire the m.lock output to both the Luna SSR in place of the pushbutton, and also wire it to the Ignition Input on the m.unit. The SSR and the m.unit controller would both turn on at the same time. Will check tomorrow to see what control voltages these switches have in their 'native' modes so I can pick easiest way. Like to avoid relays if I can.

              Will let you know what happens.


                Found it! Emcotec Safety Power Switch.

                Google search:

                PDF on a typical product:

                FWIW: Took some readings as presented below.

                Actual Battery voltage: 52.19 vdc.
                Voltage potential at switch pins: 46.4 vdc note: internal impedance of meter allowed relay to close or energize.
                Current thru switch (or possible contact): .21mA (point- two- one milliamps)
                Voltage potential supply for LED (no LED connected): 52 vdc.

                I was using this to get an idea of what you have. But notice several other types.

                Last edited by Tommycat; 04-18-2019, 06:21 AM.
                See my completed Magic Pie V5 rear hub motor E-Bike build HERE.


                  Just FYI to close the loop - I ended up using the relay that comes with the m.lock (which seems superfluous design-wise - mechanical relay controlling an SSR - but works). I wired it up so the ignition output of the m.unit powers up the relay, which closes the switch inputs on the SSR.
                  Now a swipe of the RFID key fob powers up the whole trike, but the 52V motor circuit and the 12V/5V circuits are electrically isolated. The 52V system floats above ground, the 12V system uses common chassis ground. The m.unit is a very good thing, I think. Wish they made one specific to e-bikes. Thanks again for your assistance!


                    Had not thought of RFID for this use. I have a MOTO Z3 cell so I got rid of the Bafang display, and wired a modified Alexa Moto Mod speaker to a relay(similar to how you are doing it). So simply placing my phone onto the Moto Mod, and the motor is powered up. The Alexa moto mod is attached to the bike like a cell phone mount, and the phone attaches to it with high strength rare earth magnets embedded inside(how all moto mods attach).
                    When I want to ride, I take phone out of pocket, place onto Alexa moto mod and select my Speedometer app. Looks better than the factory bafang speedo, more accurate, and I get to control music and various other items via voice command while riding. The relay also disables a motorcycle alarm system at the same time as powering up bike. Instead of separate power sources, I installed a dc to dc puck converter. So ALL electronics are run off the dual Panasonic 25R 12.5ah battery packs.


                    • Muggsy
                      Muggsy commented
                      Editing a comment
                      I did not think of RFID until I started searching motorcycle stuff in addition to bikes, and that led me to reading about motogadget stuff.
                      FYI, the Motogadget m.unit also allows "Keyless Go" via a bluetooth-paired cell phone - either method will work on my trike. I can swipe my key fob (in un-obvious location), or alternatively simply approach with m.rider app running in background on my paired phone.
                      Unfortunately, I have ended up with too many computer displays. I am using an EggRider display computer, which is wonderfully small, but I also have a Garmin 1030 - primarily for routing and rear radar displays, as well as a Samsung Active G7 running Eggrider, Motogadget, and Garmin Apps. Each of the 3 apps has a dashboard, but also useful functions unique to it. Would need to write custom app to unify all in one dashboard, I guess.
                      Also use G7 to send iTunes to wireless speaker behind my head on my reclining seat. Safer than headphones, IMO.