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    Batt Man and two batteries

    I finished a bike let year for a fellow and we installed two batteries. One a 11Ah Dolphin and then added a 20Ah Rack battery. We also wired in a switch and a wattmeter in a small panel so he can just switch from front to rear battery with a toggle switch. Kinda nice even though the common wisdom seemed to be it was;t the right switch. More than a year later it's working as well as day one.

    NOW he bought a Batt Man. Looking at the BM settings it's for a single battery. I can't see a way to set up or toggle between batteries the than using the software to change the battery settings overtime he switches from one to the other. Is there a way? Or is plugging in e the only way to reprogram every time he changes batteries.

    Am I making any sense?

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    #2
    Originally posted by Louis Luna View Post
    One a 11Ah Dolphin and then added a 20Ah Rack battery. We also wired in a switch and a wattmeter in a small panel so he can just switch from front to rear battery with a toggle switch. Kinda nice even though the common wisdom seemed to be it was;t the right switch. More than a year later it's working as well as day one.
    What switch was it you used?

    Comment


      #3
      Hah! As soon as we figure it out I'll share. Went to order 2 more and lost the link.

      Comment


        #4
        That one was a high capacity dpdt on off on toggle. Looking at another version with higher ratings, will confirm when ordered. Rockers seem to have higher rating.

        Comment


          #5
          You probably know this but a CA-3 will track 2 batteries and switch between them on the display. It provides all the batt man info plus some. About twice the price.
          Do something that is good for your health, good for your wallet and good for the planet - get an e-bike.

          www.poweredride.com

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by PoweredRide View Post
            You probably know this but a CA-3 will track 2 batteries and switch between them on the display. It provides all the batt man info plus some. About twice the price.
            Yes, but I'm not generous enough to donate a CA3 and shunt to my friends build. All he really cares about is a speedometer and some basic information. He could really care less about the data. I was hoping there might be a easy reset for when I'm stuck trouble shooting his ride. That's typically how it goes. (DUI bike) It would make my life easier. I hate that everyone except Grin insists on Windoze OS to do anything

            Comment


            • Lance Tesla
              Lance Tesla commented
              Editing a comment
              I live in an all-Mac house and if it were not for that stupid Windows OS requirement I would have reprogrammed months ago. I either have to buy a used netbook or laptop with the OS installed or I have to buy my own copy and run it on the house Mac. Which means bringing a dirty bike into the office whenever I want to alter the settings..........

            #7
            I did set up XP on the MAC but find the base programming that I've been running on 2 bikes for 2 years (EM3ev) and this year on two HD's from Luna, not worth the time to change. I installed the software made the programming cable looked recored the settings and never went back. Frankly I don't get the programing hoopla for the most part. My park walking and bike trail bikes are perfect as is, old BBS01's and the BBSHD's for hauling and errands are fast and sassy. I keep threatening to run Windoze 7 but always have something much more interesting to spend the money on. Hard for a MAC guy to give ready cash to that side. VBG

            Comment


            • Lance Tesla
              Lance Tesla commented
              Editing a comment
              I really want to increase the max speed in the various PAS levels to 100% (or more) to try to cut down on the surging I get once in a while. Other than that I am satisfied with the base settings too.

            #8
            I'd like to know the source for silimar switches and especially the rockers. Adding the 52v 13.5ah rack battery to the 36v 11.5ah canister on my Sondors.

            Comment


              #9
              Originally posted by Reddy_Kilowatt View Post
              I'd like to know the source for silimar switches and especially the rockers. Adding the 52v 13.5ah rack battery to the 36v 11.5ah canister on my Sondors.
              I'll have the bike in my shop next week to finally do the install. I think I've sorted the problem. I need to get the numbers of the switch to confirm which model it was. I can't find the receipt and my history has dozens of switches I looked at. Omg guys and their memories.

              Comment


                #10
                Originally posted by Louis Luna View Post

                I'll have the bike in my shop next week to finally do the install. I think I've sorted the problem. I need to get the numbers of the switch to confirm which model it was. I can't find the receipt and my history has dozens of switches I looked at. Omg guys and their memories.
                And the supplier and part number .......wait for it, wait for it........is?
                Last edited by Reddy_Kilowatt; 07-28-2016, 11:52 PM.

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                  #11
                  The joys of no longer being a customer service guy. I'm slow. Sorry, I haven't had time to finish the install here, and get the part number.

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                    #12
                    The Batt-man is a coulomb counter. Need one for each battery, or place it downstream after paralleling the batteries and count them as one big one. Can't switch it effectively, it is a flow-meter.
                    Alan B

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                      #13
                      Not trying to switch it directly. We're thinking that wth the on off on switch that putting it on the common + and - to the motor, it should read both. Not at the same time of course.

                      Comment


                        #14
                        The Batt-man counts coulombs by integrating current over time using a shunt in the negative lead. It also displays voltage but that has nothing to do with the fuel gauge. The fuel gauge display is generated by subtracting the value it has measured from the value you programmed into it as a "full tank" using the USB interface. It has no knowledge of any switching or of the actual charge state of the battery, it just measures and subtracts. So you could program it for the sum of both batteries, the the fuel gauge would sort of work, it would tell you that you have fuel somewhere, but the battery you are on could run out with the gauge indicates you still have fuel (in the other battery).

                        If you want a fuel gauge for each battery then two complete units would be required.

                        If the batteries happen to be the same capacity you could program it for the capacity of one, then drain it to zero, then reset the Batt-man and switch to the second.

                        Incidentally it is almost always better to parallel equal voltage batteries than switch between them. This reduces the current load on each and makes each more efficient, and delivers a higher voltage to the controller under load by reducing the IR Each battery will deliver more amp hours at the lower current as well. With the coulomb counting you know the status of the total amp hours, and if both were charged to start with you have an accurate reading of what remains.
                        Alan B

                        Comment


                        • Louis
                          Louis commented
                          Editing a comment
                          Thanks for the clarification! Much appreciated!
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