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    too much info

    friend bought a Kenda E-Bike and made me scratch an old itch. dusted off my fuel 95 and it still works. hub drive, mid drive, excessive torque on drive train, watts????? too many options!!! i see available options for full suspension.

    #2
    my bad.. he bought an ariel rider. so i was wondering if this is a thing....belt drive mid drive to a internally geared rear hub? worried about rough shifting on external cassette. saw article about rearranging sprockets. thinking the hub drive takes away from cycling experience?

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      #3
      This should be a start...good luck!
      https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...es-carbon-belt
      Fabrication is fun! Build something today. Show someone. Let them help. Inspire and share. Spread the desire.

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        #4
        okay burst my bubble. i get the tensioning situation on full suspension and OUCH! ! $1k give or take for a rolhoff internal geared hub! guess I know why they call it a build.....baby steps, guess i'll start with chain middrive and experience stretching and breaking for myself. THANKS good info

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          #5
          Originally posted by Rodney Bush View Post
          okay burst my bubble. i get the tensioning situation on full suspension and OUCH! ! $1k give or take for a rolhoff internal geared hub! guess I know why they call it a build.....baby steps, guess i'll start with chain middrive and experience stretching and breaking for myself. THANKS good info
          It's not as bad as you think. I have multiple mid-drives with standard drivetrains, and rarely does a chain snap with 2000, 3000, 5000, even 8000w. Also, internally geared hubs generally want you to stop pedaling when you shift.

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            #6
            Originally posted by Rodney Bush View Post
            okay burst my bubble. i get the tensioning situation on full suspension and OUCH! ! $1k give or take for a rolhoff internal geared hub! guess I know why they call it a build.....baby steps, guess i'll start with chain middrive and experience stretching and breaking for myself. THANKS good info
            If you don't need low granny gears, maybe get a 7,8, or 9 speed. Thicker tougher chains and gears, and cheaper than 10 speed parts.

            Some use lesser IGH units, cheaper, carefully and do ok. Rohlolff great, but others can be gently used, they say.....
            Fabrication is fun! Build something today. Show someone. Let them help. Inspire and share. Spread the desire.

            Comment


              #7
              That looks to me like a perfect BBSHD candidiate. Everything is strong enough. Make a profile template of the various battery packs and see what fits. You don't need any extra space.
              https://electricbike.com/forum/filed...5&d=1554920239
              https://electricbike.com/forum/filed...8&d=1575484709
              At the 1/5,2/5 power levels the BBSHD doesn't bang the gears, and just back off the thumb throttle if you're using more power.
              For street you'll want a 48t offset chainring for the 26" wheels. Off road 42t. Clean, lube and replace the chain regularly to protetc these specialized parts.
              Bigger brake rotors front and rear will take care of the extra speed.
              Possible driveline mods are a wider range casette (extended hanger needed), and maybe a Rapid Rise derailer and Gripshift setup.
              This will make the bike nose heavy for sandy riding conditions. A hub motor may make sense for some offroad situations, but the unsprung weight will change the suspension action.. With a HM the driveline loads are normal.
              Last edited by Retrorockit; 05-30-2020, 07:05 AM.

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              • Rodney Bush
                Rodney Bush commented
                Editing a comment
                GREAT STUFF!!! now i just need to figure out how to get one.

              #8
              profile template??

              Comment


              • Retrorockit
                Retrorockit commented
                Editing a comment
                A cardboard cutout of the battery dimensions in profile, so you don't buy a battery that wont fit at all.

                The swing out battery mount was a standard bracket modified to do that. I drilled the waterbottle hole and tapped it for 6x1mm threads, and used an automotive 6x1mm exhaust stud with a 6mm bare shank in the middle.This allows a tight fit in the frame, and an adjsutable fit at the pivot with a nylock nut.Also the bracket isn't pivoting on a threaded aprt of the stud.
                https://external-content.duckduckgo....jpg&f=1&nofb=1

              • Rodney Bush
                Rodney Bush commented
                Editing a comment
                BBS02 kits have optional 52v battery but isn't motor 48? everyone wants more power and they claim motor is robust enough to handle it, but i saw where it makes controller less reliable. what is the controller and is it worth the trade off?

              #9
              so my BBS02 arrived, pretty much fell into place, very easy install on old Trek Fuel95. chainline looks fine and no problems throwing with stock chainring and 9 speed rear deraileer only bummer is the huge heavy battery. gear sensor and speedo works good, new tires, tubes, brake pads and cables, seat, chain. it's actually been sittin for about 15 years. only few minor inconvenience, mag sensor for speedo is torx with tit in middle...who has that tool, fancy Luna wrench didn't work for my application, support bracket bolts too short since 73mm BB required longer w/ spacers.

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                #10
                opps..not bitchin, luvin it, cant wait to get this tired ole ass back on the trail!

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                  #11
                  ohh...do have bottom bracket noise or might be from rear cassette. i'll figure it out as i go.

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