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  • Retrorockit
    commented on 's reply
    I think AZ has the newer clutch type derailer that has a stronger spring. I've seen what you describe, but only with friction in the top run of the chain.A little slack there does happen until the derailer can pull it back out. I'm running an old 8 speed derailer. Clean and lube everything. The front freewheel needs to be loose, the derailer cage loose. derailer wheels too. make sure everything is lubed and working freely before trying it again.

  • jaaklucas
    commented on 's reply
    So I tried the zip tie method quickly with the rear wheel suspended and spinning. The Freewheel didnt seem to be able to keep up with the BBSHD freewheel and the upper section of the chain was sagging alot. Got stuck in between the tire and the frame. Ill give it a miss for now.

  • Retrorockit
    commented on 's reply
    There are a couple videos of the Shimano FFS at the start of the thread. One shows the shifting, the other shows the breakaway feature, but Shimano used s slipper clutch.But with a gripshift I can run it up on the center stand and scroll up and down through the gears
    Everything AZ and I do seems to always come out opposite. It's just where and how we ride.
    Last edited by Retrorockit; 03-17-2023, 04:39 PM.

  • AZguy
    commented on 's reply
    Oh yeah, give it a try - after all the only up front investment is a little zip tie (use the smallest one) =]

  • jaaklucas
    replied
    AZ, Since I dont use a gear sensor(not opposed to it still learning mid drive) I will give it a go. I only use a 7 speed freewheel anyways so it may be okay...

    Leave a comment:


  • AZguy
    commented on 's reply
    FWIW I tried this and never had any issues with the chain just as it was so if you are going to try this I'd at least just go with it as is and see if there's a problem instead of fixing a problem you don't have

    OTOH the mod didn't really do much for me aside from making it quieter when I wasn't pedaling (I've got a gear sensor so no issues when shifting) and I pretty much always pedal nearly all the time - retro and I have *very* different riding styles, equipment, goals, etc. so as always YMMV

  • jaaklucas
    commented on 's reply
    Oh now I get it! Super clever idea. I will go through your links more and Im definetly keen on it. So the rear wheel and freewheel are locked. I need a chain stay system as well on the front to keep the keep the chain from jumping the front sprocket. I looked through some of the stuff. Do you have a video of your system in use?

  • Retrorockit
    commented on 's reply
    The zip tie mod uses the freewheel in the BBSHD as a clutch between the motor and transmisssion just like a car or motorcycle. The chain keeps moving as long as the bike is moving.So if you pause pedaling, or lift the throttle to shift the shift happens smoothly. The problem with the normal setup is if you pedal at a high setting the gears crunch, if you don't pedal the shift jams up. There is the shift sensor, but too much loss of acceleration for me, especially since I often shift more than 1 gear at a time. I can now shift up or down as many gears as I like w/o pedaling.

  • jaaklucas
    replied
    Retrorockit,I think were saying the same thing. No problems pedaling and shifting a chain when its not motor powered. For sure keep pedaling. But when your chain is powered up its a little trickier.

    Leave a comment:


  • Retrorockit
    commented on 's reply
    You should keep pedaling when you shift a normal derailer bike. It really doesn't work if you stop.
    There are a couple mechanical mods that can allow that. The one that allows shifting with or without pedaling and up and downshift multiple gears is the Zip Tie Mod. But it requires some serious commitment to chain management to work properly.
    I've got enough seat time on this mod. I think I can bring it forward on it's own. It came out of another discussion here which rambled around some. https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...ed-a-freewheel (https://electricbike.com/forum/forum/main-forum/diy-discussion/155141-does-a-mid-drive-really-need-a-freewheel) The mod

  • AZguy
    commented on 's reply
    I started with a large bafang geared rear hub and realized it just wasn't going to cut it for me pretty quickly... did my BBSHD build and >8000mi later totally pleased =]

    I've also got a half twist throttle and after trying some others really like it the best


    Have fun (sort of rhetorical lol)!

  • jaaklucas
    replied
    I got out yesterday for a spirited 60K mixed ride with throttle only PAS totally disabled. I came from a throttle only hub drive so im totally used to it. After trying PAS for a month or 2, Im happy to go back to throttle only. A little tiring on the thumb shifter though but Ive got a half twist throttle on order. You can just kinda lean on the half twist when your hand is tired and really youre not engaging power all the time. I can be more economical as far as draining the battery for extended range with throttle only. I pedal alot so I just feed the juice as needed. With the mid drive its easy to shift by just releasing the throttle quickly to disengage power then shift. Or a light bib on the brake lever works too like a clutch on a motorcycle. You dont have to stop pedalling to shift . I also ride motorcycle. I find throttle only as safe as using PAS so Im not sure why they dont want Ebikes with throttles only . Loving the BBSHD for what I do which is city and local mountains stuff which can be steep. This is what I wanted mid drive for. But for commuter I will miss the hub drive with front derailler options for top end. So its a trade off.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	20230314_121906.jpg Views:	0 Size:	1.33 MB ID:	160978
    Last edited by jaaklucas; 03-16-2023, 07:21 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • AZguy
    replied


    Originally posted by jaaklucas View Post



    Ok I got it to work. I went to an earlier thread of yours on the topic and disabled the Pedal assist settings. Thank you sir!
    Excellent! Good to hear and thanks for the follow up

    I remember when a fellow posted that this setting set was like cutting the grey wire and I just didn't see why it would do that and didn't try it for a couple of weeks... sure was surprised that it works that way - likely just some bug.... err... undocumented feature in the firmware

    Was pretty happy with it that way but have to admit that tearing into the potting and doing the circuit modification made me happier

    This was the proto board version:‚Äč

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    and the minimal potting removal to install:

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    I did fill in the spot near where the wires come in and the little boards sits with RTV (electronic grade!)

    I ended up making a "real" PCA shortly after:

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    Leave a comment:


  • jaaklucas
    replied
    Originally posted by AZguy View Post

    Yes - there are four options and firmware is one option that can fix but has some risks



    If you are ok with throttle only a second option is a parameter set that will do the job even with the flawed firmware and of course since it's just parameters you can always return it back:

    Set assist 0 to 100% current and 0% speed

    Set throttle designated assist level and speed limit to "By Display's Command"


    Set the PAS level(s) you intend to use to appropriate maximum - when I did this I set the display to only have three levels and set the three levels to all have sped at 100% and then had the first level at 50% current, the second at 71% and the third at 100% - this is entirely optional, when I first did this I just set all levels (aside from 0) to 100/100 which is the simplest and works fine

    Set the throttle mode and start current the way you like - for me I set it to "current" mode and 1% start current]


    Ok I got it to work. I went to an earlier thread of yours on the topic and disabled the Pedal assist settings. Thank you sir!

    Leave a comment:


  • AZguy
    commented on 's reply
    Try again but it is intended to work in a PAS level not PAS0

    In other words lets say you set PAS 1 to 100% current/speed and then let the display sit at PAS1 - then you should get the behavior your looking for (as long as PAS0 is set 100/0)... I know it doesn't make sense that setting PAS0 that way would affect the other PAS levels... but it does for some bizarre reason...
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