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Battery Charging off Inverter. Question

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  • morgzilla
    replied
    Hi everyone. Unfortunately I have the same issue trying to use my 72V ebike charger with my Renogy 1000W “Pure Sinewave” inverter.

    I’ve been in contact with Renogy, I’ll post an update to what they come back to me with on why there inverter can’t power a 72V charger pulling 5A.

    Has anyone had any luck with other inverters? Workarounds?

    Thank you,
    Morgan

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  • BlitzBiker
    replied
    So I tried with the old school light bulb. Still surging made no difference. I think this renogy inverter must not be a true pure sine wave inverter as advertised.

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  • 73Eldo
    replied
    Try the old school light bulb?

    How fast do you need to charge? There are the solar charge controllers that take in pretty much any voltage then output a fixed voltage for charging. A limitation is I don't know how many go up to 52, I think the one I have is only 48 and reasonably priced ones are pretty low current.

    Leave a comment:


  • BlitzBiker
    replied
    Still haven't found a solution, pretty bummed on it really. I may have to bite the bullet and buy a different inverter. I tested the same charger on a 1000w Sensata inverter and it works fine but for some reason the renogy is struggling. Very odd tho I can power my microwave on this renogy 1000w and it pulls over 95 amps from the battery while the microwave runs. Way way way more than this 52v batt charger would ever pull. I don't understand it. I found another post where a guy had a similar problem with the 52v charger not working on a 3000w renogy inverter.
    Last edited by BlitzBiker; 03-27-2024, 11:20 AM.

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  • BlitzBiker
    replied
    Originally posted by abwillingham View Post
    I have a similar setup and the same problem. My 600/1200v sine inverter trips after a few seconds trying to charge my 52v ebike battery.
    I put an inline amp meter between my 200ah house battery and the inverter. It was crazy high, > 60 amps.

    Did you ever figure this out?
    I would prefer to remove all the inverters and use a dc to dc charger.

    Thanks
    Tony
    No, no luck yet. I still need to try with an old school light bulb. at this point i'm kinda just looking for a new 52v charger. if anyone has any ideas or leads on a solid 52v 110v charger that will work well with this renogy 1000w inverter that would be awesome. or a charger that i can charge directly off of the 12v dc battery would work as well. anyone have any leads?

    Leave a comment:


  • abwillingham
    replied
    I have a similar setup and the same problem. My 600/1200v sine inverter trips after a few seconds trying to charge my 52v ebike battery.
    I put an inline amp meter between my 200ah house battery and the inverter. It was crazy high, > 60 amps.

    Did you ever figure this out?
    I would prefer to remove all the inverters and use a dc to dc charger.

    Thanks
    Tony

    Leave a comment:


  • AZguy
    commented on 's reply
    Wouldn't surprise me if the inrush current to the charger would trip and inverter - these cheap chargers just use direct-off-line (DOL) that place some bulk capacitance on the other side of a rectifier so when they get plugged in they'll get a big inrush current and often an arc

    *If* that's the case, the only reasonable "cure" for that I can think of is a negative temperature coefficient (NTC) thermistor also known as an inrush current limiter (ICL)... they are very cheap but just a leaded part and have to be sized so not just simple plug-and-play

  • 73Eldo
    commented on 's reply
    I believe the issue in this case is his inverter is tripping when he connects his charger. I was thinking perhaps a small dumb restive load may help get the inverter online and stable so then maybe it will be able to deal with what ever noise and spikes may be happening when he plugs in his charger.

  • AZguy
    commented on 's reply
    "Dumb" electric skillets or hot plates have much better load for battery testing - even a "high wattage" light bulb will only pull 10-20% of the rated power at 50V due to the high resistance of a cold filament and the low voltage...

  • 73Eldo
    replied
    Try it with an old school light bulb if you can find one. The constant 'dumb' resistance of a regular old light bulb may be enough to tame things down so that the electronics are not fighting each other.

    I think even in CA you can buy old bulbs for appliances like ovens. The other option is they make a heater that screws into a light socket. They are made for use in things like reptile cages and should also do the job. I run into this issue when trying to dim LED bulbs. One regular bulb or one of those heaters stabilizes things. What ever it is has to be really dumb, can't even have an electronic power switch. If its got a switch it has to also be old school click click style.

    Leave a comment:


  • BlitzBiker
    replied
    Originally posted by 73Eldo View Post
    When you tried the light was it a old school light bulb or some sort of LED sort of thing?
    it was a lamp with an LED bulb.

    Leave a comment:


  • 73Eldo
    replied
    When you tried the light was it a old school light bulb or some sort of LED sort of thing?

    Leave a comment:


  • BlitzBiker
    replied
    Thanks for all the advice. maybe I could even look to buy a different 52v charger. one that perhaps is known to work with an inverter like the one I have. removal of this inverter is not a very easy task given I sort of built a lot around it but could be done if necessary. I'll give the surge protector a shot. for the "home power saver" do i just plug it into one socket on the inverter and then plug my charger into the other socket? it doesn't seem to have a throughput type of plug on the power saver itself.
    Last edited by BlitzBiker; 09-15-2023, 09:33 AM.

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  • K442
    replied
    Definitely sounds like something is not playing nice together. Based on the experiment with your truck, it sounds like the camper inverter is sensing something and trying to momentarily adjust, causing the surge.

    The isolation transformer is a good thought. The iron core might filter out some of the high frequency noise. You might also try a "home power saver". In theory, these are a plug-in capacitor which would also help smooth any noise/ripple on the AC line. Though the "power saving" part is somewhat of a scam - unless you are running huge inductive loads. But for this application it's the smoothing/filtering you care about, so the capacitor should help there. It would just be important to get one which actually contains a capacitor - not just an empty box.

    One other thought would be to try feeding your charger off a surge protecting power strip. The idea here is that the power strip should contain some circuitry to dump any overvoltage to ground. So, again, if you are getting any high frequency spikes on the line, it might help. (Of course then that also brings up a point of what is actual 'ground' on a floating / mobile system such as this?)

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  • TwoTired
    replied
    Low frequency inverters have big heavy transformers, and generally include charging circuits( inverter-charger ). If your inverter is not too heavy its probably high frequency. At 6 pounds it probably is HF.
    Isolation transformers are 110 to 110, some autotransformers too. Check you charger specs, it may work with 220V so you can use a step up 110:220 transformer.
    Last edited by TwoTired; 09-12-2023, 03:57 PM.

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