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BBSHD - the fun is over (for a while)...

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    BBSHD - the fun is over (for a while)...

    Originally posted by Teknor View Post
    BBSHD: May 2016 - Oct 2016: 2100 kilometers, 1 305. miles. No issues.
    2600 km / 1600 miles and a major issue. Got error 30 in the display. Tried to troubleshoot but still no luck solving the issue. Read articles up and down, done numerous Google searches without any positive results. Swapped to another display, but the same error appears. I got the error after transporting the bike on a tow bar (thule velocompact) in wet conditions. I expect the controller to be dead...

    Any advice to a sad man missing his lovely eFatty?

    #2
    I would go for a remove and replace, saving the old unit as spare parts.

    Comment


      #3
      Hi,

      Maybe the main harness go pinched of damaged? inspect it!

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks, next time I think I will buy a complete set.

        Sebz I think you were spot on!

        After two-three hours of troubleshooting I found a weak spot. Looks like it is moisture in the wiring harness (red circle area). Perhaps not a surprise after my way back from the mountains (picture 2). Now I just need to find a new wiring harness and seal the weak spot properly.

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        Last edited by Teknor; 11-24-2016, 01:45 PM.

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          #5
          Use dielectric grease on the plugs, put some liquid tape on the main harness (where you pointed the issue)

          While on the bike rack, cover your LCD and battery connections ...and don't leave the batt pack on the bike ;)

          Get a new main harness here : http://lunacycle.com/parts/bafang-pa...iring-harness/

          Comment


          • Rider
            Rider commented
            Editing a comment
            I know this is a really old post, but be careful with dielectric grease. Isn't it for single connections and allows the transfer of electricity through the grease? If you put that on a small multiple plug wouldn't it allow electricity to flow from the multiple connections to each other? I think it is meant only for individual connections. Just a thought. Correct me if I'm wrong.

          • PatrickGSR94
            PatrickGSR94 commented
            Editing a comment
            No, that is incorrect. Dielectric grease helps prevent water intrusion by helping to insulate the conductors from any moisture. Dielectric grease is used on multi-connection harness plugs all the time.

          #6
          Thanks for the tip on overmolding area of the harness potentially being a leak point. Why do you think water got in there; is that an educated guess for now, or was there testing evidence of some kind, from your diagnostics?

          I'm a little skeptical - no offense, just looking for any confirmation you can share. I would have thought an overmold would be water tight. Should be.....

          I'll go seal mine up in that area today, can't hurt.
          Fabrication is fun! Build something today. Show someone. Let them help. Inspire and share. Spread the desire.

          Comment


            #7
            Hi JPLabs . The motor was working normal before driving 2 hour back home from the mountains. The conditions were wet. A mixture of melted snow and salt (unfortunately it is used a lot of salt here in Norway to avoid icy highways). Monday morning, before biking to work, the motor was dead. I thought the controller did not survive the wet trip back. But, after wiggling different parts of the harness, I discovered the weak spot. I managed to get the Err30 to disappear if the harness was bent in a certain direction. Based on that I conclude that there might be a weak spot.

            However, I am not a pro and of course this could have been a weak spot for weeks or months after trail biking and a few crashes. And the timing after the wet ride could have been a random incident.

            Comment


            • JPLabs
              JPLabs commented
              Editing a comment
              OK, thanks for explaining the circumstances.

            #8
            Back on (the icy) track. Using regular spikes in the front and kold kutter screws in the rear tyre. It gives me a phenomenal traction on the icy tracks in the neighbourhood.


            Comment


              #9
              I have had similar issue with some of the tools I have. My remedy has been to open it up and inspect the wiring. I usually find only one wire broken, or mostly broken. What I do is cut the insulation back, slide on 2 pieces of heat shrink, the second outer layer longer than the first. I then solder the wire back together (it creates a stiff spot), position the first heat shrink and shrink it down tight, sealing the area. I then put high quality silicone on the area, and slide the second heat shrink into position and shrink it down, squeezing out some of the silicone and sealing it. What I have found is that heat shrink alone does not create a weather tight seal. I'll also do this on any connections I think might be unsatisfactory, or areas that I think might need more protection. So in short, I would open it up, dry it out well, and do the above. I'd bet with doing that, you could continue to use your harness reliably.

              Comment


                #10
                New challenge to solve

                I think my controller is broken... A few months ago, when decided to use the bike for winter commuting, I extended the battery cable so I could have the battery in my backpack. The battery lasts much longer because it keeps a good temperature inn the cells and is protected from salt spray from the roads. On the extension cable, just under the seat, I have XT90 connector (not the spark proof one) connecting the battery to the main motor power cable. So far so good.

                Problem is when I connect the XT90 connectors (battery side / controller side) together (battery is already powered on, because this is in my backpack). A snap sound and a spark comes every time. It has been like this for a few months, but the system has worked flawlessly. Now nothing happens when turning on the display (C965 is all black). I have also tried a spare display (C963). Same result. When connecting and powering on the battery a few random clicking sounds can be heard from the controller a few seconds. I have now dismounted the controller from the motor, and can hear these few clicks a bit better.

                Any advice? Is my assumption with the XT90 spark and the extended cable a viable root cause for the issue, and do you think sprak proof XT90 and a new controller will get me back on the road? Is it possible to troubleshoot the controller in any way?

                I have now ordered a new controller and spark protected XT90 connector. Because of ridiculously expensive toll roads on my commuting route I need to have this fixed the sooner the better :-)

                Thanks for sharing your thoughts,


                Attached Files

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                  #11
                  I think you are probably right; the controller is failed. I don't think they click, normally. I have 3 different BBSHD controllers that have been used on my bikes, and none of those make any click that I can hear. So, maybe yours has arcing at a burned component or something, inside. Certainly the prudent thing to try, and a fairly crucial spare to have where you live.

                  Long shot: Make it click in the dark. Maybe you will see little flashes of light shining through the potting. Extremely unlikely you would be able to see it I think, since the potting is black. But you might as well try.

                  Last edited by JPLabs; 02-04-2017, 06:56 AM.
                  Fabrication is fun! Build something today. Show someone. Let them help. Inspire and share. Spread the desire.

                  Comment


                    #12
                    Perhaps the plating inside the XT90 is so scarred that it won't pass current. I've seen a few connectors go bad like that, and they still looked useable. Have you tried splicing the power wires direct to the old controller as a test?

                    A spark proof XT90 came with my last battery and it is quite handy. I used to employ a resistor and a switch to handle the inrush currents.

                    Comment


                      #13
                      Originally posted by JPLabs View Post
                      Long shot: Make it click in the dark. Maybe you will see little flashes of light shining through the potting. Extremely unlikely you would be able to see it I think, since the potting is black. But you might as well try.
                      Thanks for your tips. There are no signs of spark flashes when turning off the lights and powering on the controller. You are right, the potting is not very transparent :-)


                      Originally posted by HarryS View Post
                      Perhaps the plating inside the XT90 is so scarred that it won't pass current. I've seen a few connectors go bad like that, and they still looked useable.
                      I have checked. The connectors are irregularly (!) sprayed with anti corrosion oil.

                      Since the the motor was open, I decided to check the gear grease. I re-greased the gear after 1000 km. Now the bike has almost 4000 km on the odometer. It was absolutely no signs of metal grain in the grease. I cleaned the used grease and applied new. I saw signs of wear and tear on the clutch. The metal "hooks" do not come out completely. I think that part will be the next to be replaced. After mounted the parts together the clutch had a good grip so hopefully it will last a few more thousand kilometer.

                      ...now waiting for the XT90-S and controller to arrive (from Luna).
                      Last edited by Teknor; 02-06-2017, 03:25 AM.

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                        #14
                        BTW, I miss you...

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                          #15
                          Next CHALLENGE...

                          The controller arrived two days after sending the order to Luna. Impressing by Luna and DHL! Found out that both the controller and the display were broken. Had to swap the display from C965 to C963. Problem is that I cannot get to the systems settings from the display. Holding down up and down for 2 sec enters the standard settings. According to the manual holding down the same buttons in the standard menu will open the advanced systems menu. But nothing happens. I need to change the number of PAS levels from 5 to 9. Any tips?
                          Last edited by Teknor; 02-09-2017, 03:39 PM.

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