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Extreme Hill Climber Fat Tire MTB Project.

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    Marine grease on the Moonlander splines and spindle: Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2484.JPG Views:	1 Size:	1.83 MB ID:	43187
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2471.JPG Views:	1 Size:	235.5 KB ID:	43188
    Last edited by commuter ebikes; 08-22-2017, 01:12 PM.

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    Here is the Park Tool BTS-1 bottom bracket tapping tool in use. The cutting oil was pretty messy.

    When I pulled out the taps, it had a lot of metal shavings.

    The new bottom bracket cups threaded in very nicely.
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    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2460.JPG Views:	1 Size:	1.64 MB ID:	43169

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    Emailing back and forth with Vladimir S. at Zelena Vozila, I changed my order from three custom width bare axles to two new Cromotors assembled with the custom width axles, as well as a spare bare axle with the same wide dimensions. These will be spare motors and a spare axle for the bikes above. I am also got some spare rotor mount flanges and axle snap rings.

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    Here is what I have so far. I am moving on to the BB and crankset which is my favorite part of the bike to work on. In this photo, you can see the reverse rake (front tire O.D. 31.5", rear tire O.D. 30.5"). I have not adjusted the saddles yet from when the bike had equal diameter tires.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2438.JPG Views:	1 Size:	2.34 MB ID:	43119
    Last edited by commuter ebikes; 08-21-2017, 11:47 AM.

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    I drove the crown race down all the way.

    Click image for larger version

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    Here is the crown race installation tool in position. The Chris King base plate adapter is the gun metal gray attachment next to the crown race.

    Click image for larger version

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    Here is the Park Tool HHP-2 headset press in action. The Chris King cup press adapters are the gun metal gray attachments next to the bearing cups. Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2410.JPG Views:	1 Size:	220.2 KB ID:	43113
    Last edited by commuter ebikes; 08-21-2017, 11:39 AM.

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    This is the drawing for a 150mm dropout bare axle. I am ordering three of these with 173mm dropouts and 260mm total length. The last time I bought some of these, they were only $50 each. Click image for larger version  Name:	axle drawing.PNG Views:	1 Size:	123.2 KB ID:	43084
    Last edited by commuter ebikes; 08-20-2017, 09:28 PM.

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    The fork is a Surly Ice Cream Truck 150mm thru-axle http://surlybikes.com/parts/forks/ic...truck_150_fork, which is 4130 Chromoly steel, the same material as the frame. It was gloss black, but I had it powder coated matte black in order to match the frame.

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    I installed one headset, fork and stem. It was the first time that I used my new headset installation and crown race seating tools, as well as the Chris King cup press and crown race (base plate) adapters, PN THS003A (for 1 1/8" steerer tubes) http://www.avt.bike/WebStore/merchan...ct_Code=THS003.

    I used Park Tool Press Fit Retaining Compound http://www.parktool.com/product/pres...-compound-rc-1 Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2402.JPG Views:	1 Size:	2.33 MB ID:	43080
    Last edited by commuter ebikes; 08-20-2017, 09:16 PM.

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    I tried several different types of torque plate mounting bolts, but I settled on these non-powdercoated Grade 12.9 M5 bolts (M5 - 0.8 X 30) with Class 8 nuts. The brake caliper mounting bracket bolts are the same hardness and thread pitch in M6, except they are 25 and 30mm long. Note the flanged axle nut on one side and the non-flanged axle nut on the other side (both M16) in order to allow clearance for the chain tensioner.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2384.JPG Views:	1 Size:	249.2 KB ID:	43077
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2396.JPG Views:	1 Size:	392.9 KB ID:	43078

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    After I thought I had set up the brake rotor spacing properly, I saw the rotor pictured below, which is not centered in the brake pads. I was willing to put in a 0.2mm rotor spacer, but resetting the spacing at the caliper (loosen caliper bolts, pull brake lever, tighten bolts) fixed it.

    Click image for larger version

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    Here is some motor data:

    Click image for larger version

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    Here is the Performance Curve/Test Report for this motor. The green is efficiency.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	performance.PNG Views:	1 Size:	789.3 KB ID:	43055

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    All of this flat protection work is getting me about 1075 (street) miles between flat tires, which is about the life of the rear tire. I have lost the option to air down, however.

    I run Vee Snowshoe XLs and 2XLs at 19psi, Surly Buds at 15psi and Surly Lous at 28psi, all at or very near the maximum recommended tire pressure. Gotta keep all those tire liners in place!

    In my experience, the Bontrager tubes and Vee tires are better at resisting punctures than the Surly Bud & Lou tires and Surly tubes. I won't use Surly tubes anymore.

    With the tire slime in there, many flats can be repaired by simply reinflating the tire. I rotate the tire until the puncture is at the bottom of the tire. This way gravity pulls the tire slime to the bottom, against the puncture. As you inflate the tire, the air pressure forces the slime through the hole and hopefully the fibers in the slime will seal the puncture. If it doesn't work the first time, rotate the tire around as much as possible (ideally in the repair stand, using motor power) and then try it again. One could even add more slime as a last act of desperation.
    Last edited by commuter ebikes; 08-20-2017, 09:48 AM.

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