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Extreme Hill Climber Fat Tire MTB Project.

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    Once the tire is at higher air pressures, the strip type liners will stretch, expanding outward for a balanced tire. I would never air down below 15psi lest the tire liners start moving around. I check tire balance before putting the bike into service.

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    This is how the bike shop taught me to keep the slime from making too much of a mess:

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    The DIY tire liner and Mr. Tuffy liners are pretty aggravating to install because they flop around in the new tire before you install the new tube. This problem is solved by installing the new tube pictured above (with the old tubes already on there, centered!) and then adjusting the air pressure up or down until you can center (by hand) each one of the "strip type" tire liners. The air pressure should be low enough to allow the strips to be moved by hand, but high enough to hold them in place by tension. I do this with the tire oriented vertically and my head inside the hole, looking down on my work and rotating the tire around.
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    Last edited by commuter ebikes; 08-20-2017, 09:18 AM.

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    If you have the old tubes and don't mind the extra weight, the setup below is easy and free, with as much protection against punctures as you want to provide.

    Inflate the new tube to enough pressure so as to center the old tubes on there, one at a time. Inflate the new tube a little more, and those old tubes will not even budge.

    Everybody with an ebike should be doing this because the motor will accommodate the extra weight.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2334.JPG Views:	1 Size:	2.72 MB ID:	43007

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    In addition to the required tube and tire, all of this additional, optional flat protection goes into the rear tire. It is three Mr. Tuffy tire liners, three old tubes, a DIY tire liner made from an old Surly Lou, and 26 ounces of tire slime. If and when I get another flat, the old tube will be added in as an additional tire liner. Same goes for the next bald tire. As time goes on, the tire gets more and more heavy, with increasing resistance to puncturing road debris. The front tire gets no tire liners and only 20 ounces of slime.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2323.JPG Views:	1 Size:	407.1 KB ID:	43004





    Last edited by commuter ebikes; 08-20-2017, 09:45 AM.

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    Comparison of non-flanged and flanged nuts, and the flanged nut on the non-drive side:
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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    Non-flanged M16 axle nut used for Singleator clearance:

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    It looks like my order for spare extra wide axles is moving forward. I am also ordering spare rotor mounting flanges, snap rings and bolts. Cromotors use the same M4 bolts for the side covers, rotor mounting flange and freewheel mounting flange.

    I have been using 170mm dropout axles, but my dropouts are actually 173mm wide. I am also increasing the overall axle width from 248mm to 260mm so that the threads will stick out beyond the axle nut. On the bikes I am building now, the axle is flush with the axle nut.

    These axles are made of automotive steel.
    Last edited by commuter ebikes; 08-18-2017, 04:09 AM.

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    Powder coating the M4, M6 and M6 hardware was a failed idea. With the powder on there, the Allen key does not fit in the socket head tightly. I won't even use these powder coated bolts, so I had to buy replacement hardware; I chose Grade 12.9 bolts.

    Assembling the Singleator was easy, but I had a clearance issue at the axle nut as well as the hub motor side cover. For the axle nut, I solved the problem by substituting in a non-flanged axle nut. At the motor end, I substituted in a bolt with a button head instead of a socket head. I would have had to use a different chain tensioner if this different type of hardware failed to allow the proper clearance.

    I am really happy with how easy it is to set up the brake pads on the hydraulic brakes. I'm sure that it may be just as easy with mechanical brakes, but it sure is nice to just hold down the brake lever and tighten the caliper mounting bolts.
    Last edited by commuter ebikes; 08-18-2017, 12:38 AM.

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    I bought a Surly Singleator chain tensioner and I powder coated most of the silver parts. Here are the results and an exploded diagram of a Singleator:

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    A brake rotor centered in the brake pads:

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    Cup washers (aka concave washers) used for caliper bracket spacing:
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    Last edited by commuter ebikes; 08-18-2017, 12:24 AM.

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    I will hopefully be ordering some spare bare axles for these bikes, with 173mm dropouts and 260mm total width. They come from Zelena Vozila in Zagreb, Croatia.

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    I set up the rear rotor brake spacing. I used no rotor spacer, and I used these in order to space the caliper (mounting bracket) away from the frame: http://www.bikeman.com/BR2169.html

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    I only used the cup washers (also called concave washers) seen in the picture. I didn't use any flat washers. These concave washers allow the caliper to conform to the position of the rotor while it is gripped tightly in the brake pads.

    These cup washers are designed to be used in pairs, obviously, with the flat sides of the washer facing the frame and caliper bracket.

    I have hydraulic brakes, so the caliper is adjusted by applying the brake and then (while continuing to hold the brake lever) evenly and progressively tightening the caliper mounting hardware (which happens to be four bolts). Of course, this can only be done once one has the rotor more or less centered in the brake pads which is achieved by using rotor spacers, caliper (mounting bracket) spacers or a combination of the two.

    Whereas rotor spacers are available in many thicknesses, I have only seen these cup washers available in two heights. I got lucky and the taller height placed my caliper spot on. I was prepared to use a rotor spacer or a flat washer between the caliper mounting bracket and the frame.

    This solution had me making a trip to the hardware store for M6 caliper bracket mounting bolts in 25, 30 and 30mm lengths in thread size 1.0 - UNC (coarse thread).
    Last edited by commuter ebikes; 08-17-2017, 10:20 AM.

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    Here is the controller heat sink as seen from the bottom:

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