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Extreme Hill Climber Fat Tire MTB Project.

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    Here are some pictures of the aluminum controller heat sink which also serves as a controller mount. I used "heatsink thermal conductive pads" to conduct the heat from the controller to the heat sink to the frame.
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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    Checking that the front fork and tire will fit. The front tire is larger at 5.05" wide, 31.5" O.D. The rear tire is 4.80" wide, 30.5" O.D.

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  • Green Werks
    replied
    My mistake I thought you were going for it as to make a living at it
    you build a nice bike and the best of luck in what ever way you go

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  • commuter ebikes
    commented on 's reply
    I have limited the scope of my project to only do "R and D" for this design, and only build bikes for myself. I would not want to find out what hassles may arise from selling them. I continually redo stuff, so the bikes have more money into them than I could ever get back. I don't have room for any more bikes, so I will just have the two high geared ones and the two low geared ones.

    I will end up with a Ti frame from one of my framebuilding classes. I will build that into a pedal road bike, but storing it in the garage will be a stretch.

    I will be completely redoing the frames (in 4130 Chromoly steel) and building my own batteries. Those two plans will take five years and further clutter the garage.

    I would always choose to spend any extra time riding rather than working on bikes for other people.

  • Green Werks
    replied
    CEB very nice work you have a great product their
    the pix are great
    Great to see someone here that is actually building something going beyond the norm, it actually lifts the site
    If I might make a suggestion
    Get those bikes sorted out put three of them on ebay and get paid Dude
    take that money and build a brand new one don't ride it and put it on the bay and start getting paid more
    and last but not least clean those motors before you take shots of them you will use those shots later on
    to advertise with, the visual of the whole clean new thing goes a long way
    You have a future in this just keep on keeping on but most of all don't get too geeked out about the whole thing
    and never for get, the only reason we do this is because it is fun and if you have to work you may as well have fun doing it
    GW
    Last edited by Green Werks; 08-16-2017, 03:58 AM.

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    Here is a photo of the tire clearance. I had to adjust the dishing just a tad in order to center the tire in the frame.

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    In the first photo below, you see that one has to save room for the torque plate mounting hardware to clear the freewheel. The second photo shows how the torque plates would hold the wheel on even if the axle nuts were to come loose. Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2184.JPG Views:	1 Size:	203.9 KB ID:	42659
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    Last edited by commuter ebikes; 08-16-2017, 12:18 PM.

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    When the powder coater was done, I received 16 torque plates (two sets for each of my four bikes), and I didn't know which torque plates fit on which bikes; that took about six hours to sort out, but they are all marked now.

    All of these are an incredibly tight fit. I will obtain some Grade 8 or Grade 12.9 hardware for these. Thanks to Alan B. for the idea! Click image for larger version

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    Here is a picture of both sides of one of the two matching 2015 Design Logic Da Phat frames that I am using for this project. It has been freshly (re)powder coated. This 4130 Chromoly steel frame is built to fit 4.80" wide 26" tires which generally have a diameter of 30.5" at 30 psi. I treated them with Frame Prep.

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    Here is a picture of some bent M5 rotor bolts. They are SS. My rotor spacing is 16.5mm. I replaced them with Grade 12.9 which have a socket head.

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  • commuter ebikes
    commented on 's reply
    See you tomorrow!

  • Alan B
    replied
    Quite a project!

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    I spent another 3 hours using the large die grinder with a rasp fitting to smooth down the knobbies. This is a messy process, with the fine black dust going everywhere. Definitely something to do in the driveway as opposed to the shop. The tire is very thin; it cut easily with tin snips.

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    I spent the morning getting halfway through converting a used (1075 miles) Vee Snowshoe 2XL to a tire liner. I cut off the knobbies (see photo) with a paring knife and used a large die grinder with a rasp to smooth where the knobbies were. It takes about five hours to do the complete conversion, but the tire liner will last for decades. Here is a photo of the worn tire and knobbies after the paring knife but before the die grinder. later, I will cut off the tire bead and cut the tire perpindicular to the circumference so that it will fit in nicely between the tube and new tire. Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2110.JPG Views:	1 Size:	2.16 MB ID:	42150
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    Last edited by commuter ebikes; 08-10-2017, 01:44 PM.

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  • commuter ebikes
    replied
    I got one bike together in time to ride it to work and post some pictures of the action. Seen below (in random order) are the dropouts filed for the larger 16mm Cromotor axle, trimmed and powder coated torque plates, heat shrink tubing on motor wires (covering XT150 bullet connectors) and my testing setup before final assembly. I also managed to blow the sand out of the new frame (not pictured).
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    Last edited by commuter ebikes; 08-09-2017, 01:48 PM.

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