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Displays, why?

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    Displays, why?

    I currently have an electric chopper with a 1000W custom mid mount motor. It is real basic, motor, twist throttle and battery. I've never had a display and don't see much need for one.

    What do they add other than cost?
    Speedo? I don't care how fast I'm going, I ride whatever speed I'm comfortable at Some days I fly, some I doddle.
    Battery level? I know I can go about 40 km per charge so I make sure I charge every 2-3 trips to work (10 km round trip)
    Current draw? Might be nice so I can limit my current manually but I've programmed my controller to 35A max. Max continuous on my battery is 30A, peak is 55A

    I'm building a new bike and the display is optional, what else can they tell me? Why should I buy one?

    I agree. So do many others, that's why there is a thread here somewhere asking how to get around having a display with the Bafang mids. Unfortunately with those motors you need the display to set your pas levels while moving. On my smart pie build the display was the first thing I got rid of.


      I like mine, I like to play with the wattage display and my gearing and cadence, until I get the most bang for my watt use. I could do without it but it helps efficiency and more then anything it's just informative and fun to look at.


      • moohead
        moohead commented
        Editing a comment
        Me too. I guess it's an efficiency thing.

      I'm a bit of a nerd so I like monitoring my voltage, wattage and speed to calculate effiency and range based on different riding conditions. In fact, I'd be even happier if these displays had a data logger to view stats on your ride after the fact.

      I also use PAS 99% of the time on my cruiser so having a display is a must for me.

      When I was first building throttle based hub motor bikes for short commutes/goofing off I didn't see much point in having the display. My wants/needs have changed since then so I can see it going both ways.


      • JPLabs
        JPLabs commented
        Editing a comment
        The Batt Man is a darn nice, calibratable ebike wattmeter, speedo, voltmeter, and more. It's also a data logger. I got mine from Luna, I haven't seen them in a while, stocked on the Luna site, but you could probably find one if you still want a logger. Nice small handlebar display, or can be tucked in a bag.

        Batt-man ebike amp hour fuel gauge. Extremely accurate fuel gauge for your ebike that fits on your dash

      Originally posted by OptimusPrime View Post
      I agree. So do many others, that's why there is a thread here somewhere asking how to get around having a display with the Bafang mids. Unfortunately with those motors you need the display to set your pas levels while moving. On my smart pie build the display was the first thing I got rid of.
      My PAS levels can be set to infinite; amount, duration, Start/stop points ETC... It's called a throttle(NO PAS). No gear sensor,Ebrakes or display. The only 2 things on my bars are a GPS and a battery voltage meter. I don't need pretty lights or sensors to enjoy my ride. I use MY BRAIN to replace all that crap. Remember, if you crash (and kill your display) you have a DEAD bike!


        Originally posted by mrm View Post

        Remember, if you crash (and kill your display) you have a DEAD bike!
        That's why I always carry a programming cable with me, to get me going without the display.


          Thing about display/dash unit is that after a while of using one, you may not really need it as much. When you’ve seen one 1500W discharge you’ve seen em all. Merely use a Watt meter long enough and you’ll know what max Watts happen under what PAS levels, gear selection and conditions.

          After a while, speedo & power readings become fairly predictable and at that point I don’t miss my dash when removed.

          But in the beginning with a new bike, I kinda like that info until I fully understand the operational envelope and specs. After that, I might miss variable PAS levels for cruising long boring stretches but that’s really about it.

          And yes, program cable is very useful workaround and/or emergency jump starting a damaged or non-working dash/display.

          For those who can find the right pins in a connector, there’s a very simple and effective jumper technique which only requires a short chunk of thin gauge stranded wire.


            My Trek 4300 has nothing - Just a throttle, battery, not even a rear brake ;)...I like it like that...I crash it a lot too...theres nothing to break on it, apart from me. I dont miss a display at all. This is my daily rider and Im with BcB on the minamalist bit, i know spot on how many kays it can do on a charge, theres no bling...I can leave it outside pubs etc and no dramas.

            My latest buil;d is different - Its a toy, has l;oads of bling and has the fancy Barfang colour display..Im looking farward to seeing it actually
            Last edited by SquALeD; 08-15-2017, 05:30 AM.


              There are a few ways
              I read the 'Ditch your Display' article when I was having display switch issues
              I learned the jumper wire method the wire doesn't have to stay in the Higo plug so if your Display'\switch go out you can jump start it and put the wires away

              Then I tested the RX Tx and Gnd touching them in different combinations hit different display features from programming to PAS levals
              I tried this on the switch for display Higo and displays higo


                A couple things I'm testing out are and

                I just got them recently they both work but both have different issues
                First the eggrider doesn't get the correct voltage reading they asked me to give feedback as they are beta I'm getting a report togather as they asked me to
                They assured me I'd get updates
                Now the good part plug in place of display and you can instantly reprogram the BBSHD
                I honestly don't see a need to put my phone or a $15 EBay phone on my handlebars

                I'm just turning it on and putting the phone in a pouch

                Now the Forerider works but has a few differences it' plugs before the display and has a 15amp restriction on the updated pro forerider app the older version is still in the Playstore
                The dashboards are pretty nice
                I haven't played with it enough to see if I can use it without the display but I definitely need to hack that amperage restriction
                Last edited by Robert Larrison; 08-16-2017, 03:55 PM.


                • JPLabs
                  JPLabs commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Eggrider looks great, nice find there! I love my Bafang Display's physical thumb switches for easy PAS setting on the fly, so don't think I'd want to ditch my display and lose that, but for programming on the go, and for mode switching between 2 calibration files (on/off road), it's got a pretty desirable feature set. Nice to see.

                • ykick
                  ykick commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Too bad there isn't a way to connect a DPC-14 or similar handlebar switch to the BT device in order to retain "on the fly" switching capability? V2 perhaps?

                  Deeper controller programming on the road would be nice?

                My first ebike had a BBS02 and I paid a lot of attention to the display at initially. I eventually ended up with a Magic Pie Ext on my trike and it didn't come with a display. I don't miss it at all. I have a bike speedometer on the handlebars, a throttle, and a button for cruise control. It is simple and effective. None of the displays I have used have had an accurate battery level indicator which is really the only thing I would want.


                  I have removed my display from my BBSHD equipped bike and I have to say I wish I had done it sooner. I use a 52v battery so the gauge was next to useless and I'm also not a fan of the BBS pas system.


                  • OptimusPrime
                    OptimusPrime commented
                    Editing a comment
                    What steps did you take to do this?

                  • neil.b
                    neil.b commented
                    Editing a comment
                    I just cut away the extra length on the removable part of the wiring harness making sure to join the 2 wires so it turns on and also re attach the plug for the throttle. Only very basic crimps/heat shrink required. Also there are a few programming changes to make so that you get full power on the throttle and no pas in the default pas mode 1.

                  Just as a follow up to this thread ive now been riding my BBSHD equipped Stomper for a while now and really like the DPC14 display....Strange! I would never have one on the Trek...


                  • Joe Remi
                    Joe Remi commented
                    Editing a comment
                    I like knowing my speed, mileage, and using the display for PAS. The 'no display' thing for me would be like hopping in my Impala and having to guess about speed, where D is, and when I'm gonna need gas. Why would I want that??

                  PAS... everything else is redundant or unimportant... except perhaps error codes but I don't see those ever... the symbols for the brake engagement is useful for adjusting (which reminds me)...

                  Since I use PAS 99+% of the time the display is staying!