Advise for a good 3000w 80a 72v controller . not expensive + analyst plug&play

[levleon13]

i have plenty of these same controllers here locally , but this type of controller failed on my ebike , so i would like to change to some other type ( they're all unbranded but i'll notice the difference )
ebay or aliexpress would be appreciated .

[commuter ebikes]

I have Lyen Mark 2 controllers on all of my bikes. I absolutely love them and I have never had any problems. http://lyen.com/

I use the "24 FET 10000Watts Muscular High Current LYEN Controller" I really recommend getting 24 FETs so you will never have any heat problems.

I have drawn 105A burst and 82A continuous at 72V. Usually, however, I draw 30A at 72V.

Some people would steer you toward a sine wave or FOC controller, but this trap wave controller sure serves me well.

[Rix Ryds]

Your math is wrong. 3000 watts at 72 volts is about 40 amps. If you want 80 amps at 72 volts you want a 6Kw controller.
https://em3ev.com/shop/12-fet-irfb41...troller-black/ Is a great 3000 watt controller for a great price.
If you really want 6Kw, I would have to agree with Commuter Ebikes, get one of Lyens 244110 24 FET, 100 volt controllers, it will supply enough phase current to turn most hub motors to lava, so make sure you have enough motor! (Crystalyte Crown or better)

[commuter ebikes]

Your math is wrong. 3000 watts at 72 volts is about 40 amps. If you want 80 amps at 72 volts you want a 6Kw controller.
https://em3ev.com/shop/12-fet-irfb41...troller-black/ Is a great 3000 watt controller for a great price.
If you really want 6Kw, I would have to agree with Commuter Ebikes, get one of Lyens 244110 24 FET, 100 volt controllers, it will supply enough phase current to turn most hub motors to lava, so make sure you have enough motor! (Crystalyte Crown or better)

I find it interesting that reality dictates that there will always be a weakest link in the system, either the motor, controller or battery.

I had a system with a Crystalyte 4060 (40mm magnet) running at about 3000W continuous where the motor was the weak link. This resulted in the motor getting too hot (over 100 degrees C) and I would have to stop my ride in order to let the motor cool. This was not good because the motor doesn't cool so quickly. I would wait as long as possible and then continue on at a much lower power setting. This made for a poor commuter ebike.

The Crystalyte 4060 is advertised to handle 3000W continuous, but my experience showed this to be false. I replaced the motor with a 50mm magnet motor and that solved the problem. After the upgrade to a larger motor, my battery turned out to be the weakest link. The battery I have can only deliver about 32A continuous for my 12 mile round trip commute. If I try to draw more current than that, the circuit breaker in my BMS will trip after about 11 miles of riding.

My point here is that my 24 FET controller has never been the weak link in the system.

[levleon13]

Your math is wrong. 3000 watts at 72 volts is about 40 amps. If you want 80 amps at 72 volts you want a 6Kw controller.
https://em3ev.com/shop/12-fet-irfb41...troller-black/ Is a great 3000 watt controller for a great price.
If you really want 6Kw, I would have to agree with Commuter Ebikes, get one of Lyens 244110 24 FET, 100 volt controllers, it will supply enough phase current to turn most hub motors to lava, so make sure you have enough motor! (Crystalyte Crown or better)

nope... i currently use controller which says on its label 3000w , 80a .
means my battery is 72v X 80a peak = 5760 w peaks . which is pretty normal for these controllers . this is why they're rated 80a after all hehe . 3000w label is for continuous current .

[levleon13]

I find it interesting that reality dictates that there will always be a weakest link in the system, either the motor, controller or battery.

I had a system with a Crystalyte 4060 (40mm magnet) running at about 3000W continuous where the motor was the weak link. This resulted in the motor getting too hot (over 100 degrees C) and I would have to stop my ride in order to let the motor cool. This was not good because the motor doesn't cool so quickly. I would wait as long as possible and then continue on at a much lower power setting. This made for a poor commuter ebike.

The Crystalyte 4060 is advertised to handle 3000W continuous, but my experience showed this to be false. I replaced the motor with a 50mm magnet motor and that solved the problem. After the upgrade to a larger motor, my battery turned out to be the weakest link. The battery I have can only deliver about 32A continuous for my 12 mile round trip commute. If I try to draw more current than that, the circuit breaker in my BMS will trip after about 11 miles of riding.

My point here is that my 24 FET controller has never been the weak link in the system.

have similar issue . after upgrading from 1500w motor to 3000 , i get much more torque and speed , but my volt sags are bigger and i get to the point where it disconnects by the controller .
my weakest link is the battery now that cant handle sags of 80a . ( it can , only when full ) .
anyway , i was looking for a better controller because i thought my is about to die , but after opening it up , i saw some cable there smashed in between the heat-block and the body , which made my throttle respond alternately . now when i've assmbled it back it is all cool and smooth so i guess the idea for the new controller is on hold :D

[commuter ebikes]

Great news!