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advice : shock absorbing seat-stem ,camera mounting bracket ,big tires

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    advice : shock absorbing seat-stem ,camera mounting bracket ,big tires

    Old injuries flare up from bumpy rides need better seat and do big tires significantly reduce shock?Do they add a lot of drag? Ive gotta a good camera and want to mount it . It needs like a small vice w/ rubber insets on the inside of the jaws .

    #2

    My mother has serious issues in this regard. If I were to reccomend a bike for her, I'd suggest going even further...

    But to take it easy on your body, and to lessen the jarring of bumps, larger tires will indeed help a great deal. So can a shock-absorbing seat-post, and so can a good quality seat with springs which are proportional to the backside they're supposed to support.

    All that said, you're going to also want to pay attention to the roadway for bumps, potholes, recessed storm-drains--whatever you come across, and slow down. Even really gigantic and nasty things can be ridden over or through, if you're going slowly and gently enough. If you expect to charge through everything full-speed, then no amount of suspension or squishiness can keep your body from becoming shaken and jarred.

    As long as you're realistic, and you're not expecting a ride that's Cadillac-smooth--you'll be okay.

    Soft tires do increase rolling resistance, which translates to less range (no matter what your system). Knobby tires also increase rolling resistance. If you're primarily riding on roads, choosing a smoother tread-pattern can make a difference.

    I'm sure there are many opinions, and arguments to support them. It seems from what I read here, that most folks place their personal comfort first, even if that means sacrificing some battery-power. I see nothing wrong with that approach at all. If more comfort means less range--I'd still choose for a comfortable ride any day. I'd be happy to just pay for a bigger battery--and be able to enjoy my rides in comfort.

    Some folks use narrower tires at higher pressures, and rely on suspension to minimize the shaking of their bones; others combine suspension with huge squishy tires; some go with regular "Balloon" type bicycle tires as a decent compromise, others insist on Fat Tires or nothing.

    From what I can tell, folks choose their setups primarily according to their personal style preferences and tastes; and then look towards tailoring those choices according to their specific project's properties, That's basically what I have done also--with my own "tastes" changng over the years, as I've tried various products, and gained a little experience.

    As far as camera mounting, there are many approaches, and many adapters, gimbals, and gadgets. It sounds as if you'll be keeping your riding style fairly tame, so I see no reason to go crazy with Action-Cam type stuff. Provided your camera isn't terribly heavy, I expect that relatively sturdy normal mounts and adapters will be adequate for your use. I cannot recommend any specific ones though--sorry about that. Others here surely can.

    Best of luck with your project!

    Tklop
    Last edited by tklop; 12-20-2018, 02:40 AM. Reason: for clarity

    Comment


      #3
      Look up Cirrus BodyFloat 2.1 Suspension Seat Post. It will help with the ride. Fat tires at lower inflation does help, but adds drag.

      Comment


        #4
        For a camera mount, many can be had from eBay, Adorama, and Walmart - I'd consider a securing or safety lanyard for heftier cameras.

        I've gone the semi-fat or big tire route (27.5 by 2.8") - they do cushion the ride, yes at a drag cost - nothing rolls like tubular tires! Even going from 700Cx32mm to 700Cx38mm on my commuter bike helped a lot (and no rim change required). One unexpected benefit was the reduction of higher frequency, butt and hand numbing vibration while riding on tarred crushed stone road surfaces. Try dropping the air pressure down to say, 75% of the max on your current tires, if you haven't already.
        Last edited by ncmired; 12-20-2018, 08:07 AM.

        Comment


          #5
          Sorry big tires means more drag . I will get better seat pole and see what happens . Bike unfriendly town ,have to go through a lot of parklots and sidewalks . It don't bother my arthritic hands (significant ,implants in 2 fingers ) or butt ,no roids . I have floating ribs and improperly healed muscles other stuff too . Its not going to stop me because of my hedonistic outlook , ' if something brings more joy than pain ,do it ' e-biking does that .

          Comment


            #6
            Why worry about a little fat tire drag when you are carrying a box full of electrons?

            Comment


            • tklop
              tklop commented
              Editing a comment
              That is exactly right, AZguy, and straight to the point as usual, Sir.

              It seems to me, most anyone wishing for a satisfying project, will probably want to plan on spending about 2/3 of their anticipated total project's cost--on their battery.

              Buying such a "juice box" should ensure there's more than enough electrons to turn whatever tires you like! Motorcycle tires, whatever.

              I've not yet graduated to Fat Tires--but it's a matter of design limitation, not some arbitrary prejudice.

              So, no--I don't have any fat tires. But I've got the biggest doggone tires I can use. My machine is heavy, and sinks into soft ground easily enough as it is (thank goodness for 3WD). Plus, the only suspension option I've got is to have some tire-squish in play. But I can't go any bigger; if any wheels develop wobbles they'll start buzzing on either fenders or frame.

              So, okay, yeah, drag is a drag. But my bakfiets doesn't notice it too much. The beast is I'm sure more than 120 kilograms--and it's got a whole extra wheel's worth of "drag" --being a trike. I also carry a lot. I just go ahead and drag my whole toolbox with me when I ride--which accounts for about 20 of those kilograms, plus at least another ten KG is spare parts. Why? Well--why not? I've got the space--and the battery power to haul it. If I had a car, that stuff would be in my trunk--so yeah. This is my car. And my next battery will be 48V 100AH--up from the 60AH I started with..

              Batteries are expensive. But I tend to think about buying capacity as buying capability. At any rate, once bought, the electrons needed to fill and refill any size bike-battery are so cheap as to be negligible.

              So yeah--count me in for a "big battery" guy any day!
              Last edited by tklop; 12-23-2018, 11:17 AM.

            #7
            ^ I have a mental block against drag . I have always hated the feeling of it more than post ride trauma . At this point I'm gonna do the improved seat . I may go big tire yet ,I'm not saying no to it . I'm not new to biking but am to e-biking . Going on sidewalks didn't bug me on a regular bike but at the speed of a e-bike it does . So ,like the 1st guy said ,slow down .

            Comment


              #8
              I'm riding with 4.7 x 26" tires (typ ~10-12psi), front suspension with suspension seatpost and it's great. Sidewalk cracks of an inch or two even at an angle are no big deal and I can blaze through the gravel, sand or grass easily. When pedaling the added power of the motor far more than makes any additional rolling resistance not only invisible, it's like getting steve austin legs... duhduhduhduh <six million dollar sounds>

              I'm just shy of 60, have lived a rough and tumble life that has left me beat up in many ways including a missing leg... I have little interest in smaller tires... The fatties provide too many advantages...

              In all kinds of sports I continually amaze myself trying something and then not only adopting it enthusiastically but wondering why it took me so long... fat tires are just one of many...

              Comment


                #9
                youre starting to sell me on big tires .

                Comment


                  #10
                  Soft tires just keep so much vibration out of the bike that everything else works better. They also provide a big hit cpability that might prevent injury in your situation. If you're pedaling, and want to ride very far they're not even an option. But this is one of the things that changes on an E bike. The ride effect doesn't really happen until you get down to 30PSI. That generally means 2.1" or wider tires. Full slick, or grooved slicks like the Continental Contact City Pluswork well on ashpalt but can slip around on dirty concrete. Something like the Schwalbe Big Apple Plus is more versatile, but still rolls well. many people go even bigger But this size 52-56mm is where most of the tire makers are focusing their efforts for urban riding.

                  Comment


                    #11
                    I had bum, feet, hand and wrist issues when I started riding again about 3 years. Went through at least 10+ saddles and both S-T & L-T Thudbuster seatpost, plus a variety of handlebars with different back sweeps and grips. Here's what I settled on after all that experimentation and costs, plus a few 2-cent comments:

                    Seatpost -
                    Cane Creek S-T Thudbuster on every bike without rear suspension. I tried the L-T, but didn't like the constant motion in the cockpit (many others don't mind that). The L-T does give more travel and comfort.

                    Saddle -
                    ISM Urbaine beats them all for me. I use it on every hardtail and full rigid do-it-all rig. It not only prevents nether region numbness, you can sit back with a more upright position on the rear of the seat in comfort without the seat going up your wazoo. The Selle Italia MAX SLR Gel Flow is a close second for my aggressive full suspension MTB rig (expensive, but worth it).

                    Handlebar -
                    Settled on the 35 degree Fouriers Tailhead 7050 alloy 720mm wide handlebar. It has bends in the hand palm area that really do relieve hand pressure pain. I combine those with ESI Extra Chunky grips and SQlab 411 Inner bar-ends. The 411's allow you to ride like you have hoods on MTB bars, plus you can rest you palms on the top of the ESI grips with your thumbs out-stretched touching the inner bar-ends so your hands won't slip off the front over the bars when the trail gets rough or hit a bump. Other handlebars worth mentioning are the SQlab 311 and Answer 20X20; both about 20 degree sweep (I think). I use the 20X20 on my aggressive full-suspension XC MTB also with SQlab 411 inner bar-ends and the SQlab 311 bars with Ergon GP2 grips with long GP5 bar ends with the stops ground out as inner bar-ends on my hardtail. That said, the Fouriers Trailhead bars with SQlab 411 inner bar-ends are my favorite for long treks on and off road on my rigid rides.

                    Tires -
                    For me the 2.6"-2.8" width is the sweet spot in tires. Favorite all-around tire is the Surly Extraterrestial 29" X 2.5" (know as ET's and come in 26" too, but not 27.5") on 39mm ID rims they measure over 2.6" mounted. You can run them up to 60psi and pretty much as low as you like off road; I never go below 30psi front and 35psi rear with my 230lbs. body. They roll great on pavement, gravel and hardpack. They likely will not work well in mud (would probably suffer from tread fill) and sand if not aired down, but float over sand well when traction isn't the priority. For my 650B hardtail dirt, gravel and city ride I like the Schwalbe Super Moto-X 2.4" & 2.8". Schwalbe makes others that virtually have the same tread, but are called something else like Big Apples(?). These are very cushy tires, but still roll well (if roll really matters to you with electric assist). They support a 20-45psi range. A 2.8" on a narrow 21mm ID rim measures about 2.6" width. I run 2.8" front and 2.4" rear on one of my rides and love them.

                    Pedals -
                    Switch from clip-less to flats; enough said. They give you the ability to reposition your feet as needed and take away the constant pressure on the ball of your foot. If you have huge feet get big ones. I have that monsterous brand on my ride that measure something like 6" long and span the arch of my foot for good ball-heel balance.

                    That batch of upgrades should give you a few items to consider. Every piece adds to the pleasure of my eSurly ECR 29+ full-hard rig, which can support both of my batteries 21Ah & 17.5Ah for 100+ miles rides in comfort.

                    To some up, my go-to combination is:

                    Seatpost - Cane Creek S-T Thudbuster
                    Saddle - ISM Urbaine
                    Handlebar - Fouriers Trailhead
                    Grips - ISM Extra Chunky
                    Tires - Surly Extraterrestrial 26"/29" X 2.5"
                    Pedals - Large flats

                    OH! And if you want shifting comfort go to an Internal Geared Hub (IGH), but that a discussion for another thread...
                    Last edited by Rider; 12-23-2018, 05:48 PM.
                    MOVING BACK TO PEDAL...
                    2020 Banshee Paradox V3 1x11 (pedal)
                    2018 Soma Wolverine 3spd IGH Belt Drive (pedal)

                    Comment


                    • tklop
                      tklop commented
                      Editing a comment
                      The Schwalbe Super Moto-X is now the Big Ben Plus--just for the sake of reference. It was always the same tire, but had two names--the moniker "Super Moto-X" reserved for the widest of the assortment. Now they just abandonened the separate name, and offer the Big Ben Plus in those bigger sizes. Just a re-naming thing.

                      I like them quite a bit! My +/- 200 KG rider/bakfiets combo rides really well at 55 psi. I do not know the end-dimensions exactly, but they're big for a bike-tire. The 20's
                      under the box are gosh--probably almost three inches high--and at any rate, are about as wide as they are tall. There's lots of air-volume, and that height really does absorb a lot of "sharp" edges--height-transitions, holes--etc., without pinching the tire against the rim.

                      I mostly ride on the roads, where the tires have relatively low rolling-resistance, and good leak-protection. The rubber compound is a little softer than the Big Apple--and this makes it grippier, but it also decreases the longevity of the tread. The tires grip well on asphalt, clean or dirty, wet or dry. But the tread also has plenty of grip for not-too-extreme off-road use--trails, gravel roads, dirt, sand, even not-too-deep mud, etc..

                      But to alert the uninitiated, balloon tires can "swim" a bit. If anyone remembers driving a van with Bias Ply tires under it--you'll know the feeling well. Running at max pressure won't be neccessary for most, but for folks who want to go Balloon, I'd increase the pressure until the "swim" goes away--adjusting it according to "feel" rather than according to gauge (not to exceed the maximum pressure though of course). Why go by feel? Because everybody's project is different, and the heavier your setup is (including you)--the more pressure it'll take to find that "sweet spot".

                      For travelling "on speed" I don't want them swimming. It's terrifying. Plus, the chance of "bottoming-out" --pinching your tire against the rim, or denting a rim, etc--are worst when the tires are soft enough to "swim". Crawling along the beach though, or down a soft sandy path at walking-speed, sure--no problem. There's times to drop the pressure! I can handle the "swim" just fine in those circumstances. Heck--that's fun!

                      But it all has to do with energy and momentum. The faster you go, the more severe the imact of any given bump will be upon your tires. To quote Star Trek TOS, "You cannot change the laws of physics!" This is a good reason to combine cushioning approaches too--as you have stated--by adding a suspension seat-post, and a good seat.

                      Anyways...

                      Thank you for sharing your product experience!
                      Last edited by tklop; 12-24-2018, 02:30 AM. Reason: for clarity

                    • Hard Tail
                      Hard Tail commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Spot on Rider. When that lotto win comes in I'm getting my Roholf hub.

                    #12
                    Great post Rider....very interesting, heck I took notes!

                    Comment


                    • Rider
                      Rider commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Saddles are a unique fit to each rider, so some experimenting is always required after one understands the basics of positioning the seat and height.

                      Brooks saddles are a perfect example. I tried a Cambium because they don’t require a break in period like the leather ones. Most uncomfortable saddle I tried! So many people love them, but not me. They say you either love or hate them. I’m clearly in the latter camp when it comes to Brooks saddles. Best to barrow one to try if you can because of the high cost.
                      Last edited by Rider; 01-11-2019, 06:55 AM.

                    #13
                    I hope you can try all the suspension posts, because they do different things. I have the body float which is smooth as butter on all small things the road throws at you. However it bottoms out on bigger bumps, so it might jolt you badly. The thudbuster helps on the bigger bumps, but not the smaller ones as well as the body float. Suntour has one as well. They are so different, which one helps you will be most interesting.

                    Comment


                      #14
                      I'll be looking into the ISM seats. Thanks for that.
                      The way tires work- To carry a certain amount of weight a tire needs a certain amount of air. It can be high volume and low pressure, or low volume high pressure. A high pressure tire will have a smaller contact patch. Weight# / PSI= Contact patch size.A large tire at 60 PSI will have the same contact patch area as a smaller tire at the same pressure. So you have the option with the bigger tire of running them soft or hard.
                      The extra weight including flat prevention features hurts acceleration and climbing, and the size hurts wind resistance. On a pedal bike, especially for competition those are all deal breakers. On an E Bike they become secondary most of the time. Unless you run out of battery and have to carry it up the mountain to get home.

                      Comment


                      • tklop
                        tklop commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Well said.

                        It's not like rolling-resistance ever goes away, it's just that it becomes a "non-factor" once you go with electric assist (until something fails, and you're pushing with your legs alone).

                        The same is true with weight. Carrying a ton of crap around wouldn't be doable on leg-power alone--but hauling along those spare parts, and the extra tools is instantly worth it--with assist. Of course you end up with the same problem--if your power-assist goes out, now you've got an elephant to push back home (or wherever).

                        The factor that goes from moderate to severe, when you go from pedal-powered bike to e-bike---is wind-resistance (assuming you'll want to be spending a lot of time over 16 kilometers per hour or so). This factor--unlike those two others--gets exponetially worse the faster you go.

                        But someone who doesn't like being jarred and shaken a lot, probably will want to ease back down into the 25 to 30 kph range (about 20 mph or less). Even on well-maintained roads, you're going to start feeling those bumps above that speed (in my experience--again--fatter tires almost certainly would increase the speed of this "sweet spot of smoothest riding"--bigger tire; more cushioning--makes sense; but I cannot yet verify that from my own experience).

                        What I can say, with assurance, is that ultimately the key to a smoother ride, and efficiency as well--is to just slow down a little.

                        I know--I like going fast too. But it's all relative, isn't it? And while I can easily maintain 25 kilometers-per-hour on my pedal-powered bikes, I am going to get sweaty--for sure. Depending on where you're going, arriving there all sweaty isn't neccesarily too handy.

                        With that in mind, if my e-bike lets me roll along at that same speed with zero risk of getting sweaty--that's already a big advantage. So, if I could only restrain myself, and just roll about 10 kph slower than my current (self-limited) top-speed of 35 kph--I'd be getting a lot further on a charge.

                        I suppose also, if I were to redesign my plywood crate for aerodynamics, that might help too. But I am not planning on that..

                        So: Weight? Who cares! Rolling-resistance? Who cares! But wind-resistance? At least if you want to go fast, it's the e-biker's greatest foe!
                        Last edited by tklop; 12-24-2018, 10:03 PM.

                      • Rider
                        Rider commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Funny you zeroed in on the ~20mph comfort zone. That’s just what I have done over the years of ebike riding. My normal speed is about 18-20mph now, but early on I pushed the ebike to 23-25mph often for long stretches. Not anymore, not worth it for me. It’s all about the enjoyment of the ride now that the initial ebike giddy factor has worn off. I’m now thinking about B&B e-touring and just added a Blackburn Outpost World Touring rear rack to the eSurly ECR...

                      #15
                      Originally posted by Retrorockit View Post
                      Unless you run out of battery
                      Pity there isn't a little blue pill for this anxiety.

                      Comment


                      • Rider
                        Rider commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Ununpentium (Uup) is the hot ticket these days. Just ask Bob Lazar (if any of his employment records still exist).

                        An interesting side note: My mother went to high school with one of the crew on the Enola Gay (Richard H. Nelson, Private First Class, VHF Radio Operator). What a site that must have been, and a sad tragedy of war at the same time.

                      • ncmired
                        ncmired commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Where'd Bob come up the idea for Moscovium? At the Little A'Le'Inn Bed, Brothel (thanks, Bob!), and Breakfast?

                        My parents worked at Oak Ridge during the war. They still glow in the dark, just a little. Not enough to read by.
                        Last edited by ncmired; 01-09-2019, 04:27 PM.

                      • Rider
                        Rider commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Last time I saw Bob he was manning his rocket car at the Reno Air Races many years ago. Nice glow coming out of the back of that thing!

                        And the only thing UUP means to me these days is that King Dollar might be dead (Invesco DB US Dollar Index Bullish Fund).
                        Last edited by Rider; 01-10-2019, 01:56 AM.
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