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    #16
    Tklop I haven’t found a setting for battery chemistry, but there are a lot of other options available. The 48v controller assumes you are using a 13s, so maybe changing the setting to 14s with the new display would make it the bars more accurate. Aside from that, there are a bunch of features you can display like a remaining watt meter, voltage meter, and state of charge indicator. Check it out

    https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-..._Battery_Setup
    Last edited by valueseek; 09-07-2019, 05:24 PM.

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    • tklop
      tklop commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks! I will check that out. If only I didn't have to be "different" --with my choice of battery-chemistry--right?

      Appreciated, valueseek!

      All the best

    #17
    There is some work being done at Endlessspere to help the cooling on these. It involves filling the air gap between the motor and cover with thermal transfer pads to improve heat transfer to the air. This makes the cover hotter than without it. For heat transfer to occur the surface must be hotter than the cooling air. The more the temperature difference the higher the rate of cooling. If you can achieve real time cooling the continuos output should improve. As provided the cover with an air gap actually insulates the motor. Some of the users at endlesssphere put thermal sensors on their motors. They know exactly how hot these things get. This requires board level soldering and removes the throttle option.There is a lot to like about the TSDZ2. I would suggest that you look before you leap with this one. Many options, many upgrades, more remains to be done in my opinion. It's true most of the posts at ES are about firmware, but there is a lot of other info. also.
    As far as the "advantage" PAS is supposed to have regarding rider input. At assist level 1 with my BBSHD all output over about 300W comes from my legs. Alll you have to do is choose a low assist setting. This improves range greatly. They "feel " different, but the end result at steady speed seems about the same to me.
    Last edited by Retrorockit; 09-07-2019, 04:33 PM.

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    #18
    Hey--I want to offer an apology, and correction.

    Up there (earlier in this thread)--I've written that I see the BBS02's everywhere, and that my TSDZ2 outperforms them by a big margin.

    I want to retract those claims--because I realize now I am actually seeing the Bafang BBS01's everywhere--not the 750W Bafang BBS02's.

    Yes, the 750W BBS02 mid-drive is indeed the best Bafang model to choose--if you want to do a side-by-side comparison with the 750W TSDZ2. I did have that part correct.

    But for the observational performance-related comparisons I related--the Bafang's performance--was that of the BBS01--not the BBS02. I was looking at the wrong Bafang mid-drive models.

    Comparing my TSDZ2 performance, I proudly said "I pass them regularly" and such... Well, duh--of course I do! That's what--a 250W mid-drive in the BBS01?

    Obviously, what I'd stated was just as "apples and oranges" of an unfair comparison, as trying to line up the TSDZ2 against the BBSHD was!

    I am sorry about that.

    Having realized my mistake, I wanted to make it right--as best I can!

    Hopefully, with this posting, I'll have done so.

    Best of luck with your projects, everyone!
    Last edited by tklop; 09-09-2019, 10:04 AM.

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      #19
      Retrorocket Thank you, you’re the man. Did QuirkyOrk bend the heat sinks himself? They look like they fit perfectly..

      I’m already working on the temp sensor and a lightweight 58v smart battery, after adding the pads and heat sinks too I think I’ll see a huge improvement.

      tklop yeah I made the same mistake, whoops. Anyway the only point i was making is that my experience with the tsdz2 has been really positive. The Bafangs and Tongshengs are all good motors.

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        #20
        I think the TSDZ2 can be an excellent motor, but at 750W you have to do some modding to get there. Much of the world has a 350W Ebike limit, and in that environment it's a popular option. Two things are working against it in the US. One is the 750W limit that isn't actually enforced in many areas. The other is that in Europe bicycling for transportation and sport is an established part of life there. In the US it's very rare, so the typical US rider is not conditioned to produce high continuos output (my apologies to those who are). Many are coming to this from cars, or motorcycles. Some like myself are getting on in years. I can understand a rider who wants to maintain their leg conditioning may prefer the PAS type motor. You have to work to get the assist. As shipped i view the TSDZ2 as a good 350W motor with a 750W intermittent rating.

        QuirkyOrk bent the heatsinks. You need to selct ones with a thin base. With good TIM pads they may not be needed. If you overcool the motor you're wasting Watts. At 58V you mayneed alll the cooling you can get. Be sure you can get a Volt setting for that. They refuse to run when overvolted unless you have the aftermarket firmware. I'm not a firmware kind of guy, so ask around for specifics.

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          #21
          Good TIM pads are expensive, I saw in the thread you and some others recommending better ones. I’ll probably move to those after I get the temp sensor and at least try some cheap ones.

          I’m actually moving to 15s for the other benefits. High cadence limit with less/no back emf in the top end, and less heat generated at the same power level because the current will be lower.

          8-10a max would give me 400-500w peak power. I think the feature that keeps a consistent power level as the battery get low will need to be accounted for.

          I’ve been really happy with the stock power level, and if anything I think it’s too much for both my li-ion capacity cells and the motor. It really annoys me that even though the vlcd5 secret menu has a option to set the amp limit, it doesn’t work and does nothing at all. It’s the main reason I switched to the firmware.

          I definitely checked what the limit is in the display, it’s 15s. The controller has 63v capacitors and has been confirmed to work at as high as 62.2v. With a programmable Bluetooth BMS I can set exactly when I want it to stop charging.

          Comment


          • Retrorockit
            Retrorockit commented
            Editing a comment
            QuirkyOrk had good results with cheap TIM pads AND external heatsinks. Not sure how the cost benefit plays out there.But it's good place to start. 3M pads seem to be the median pad in price and performance.
            Last edited by Retrorockit; 09-12-2019, 01:35 PM.
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