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Sensored vs sensorless controller

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    Sensored vs sensorless controller

    I am a new e-biker in Boston, with a problem that I hope an infineon controller will solve, and I would welcome guidance. I recently bought a used ebike with a 48-volt 1000 watt (Chinese) Leafbike.com front hub brushless direct drive motor. I am 200 pounds, 6 foot, and commute 7 miles each way to work. I am seeking reliable, safe transportation, not speed.
    After a week's use, the bike overheated using mainly the throttle. I switched to pedal assist to reduce strain,but after another week it suddenly stopped again; more wiring issues had arisen. When I got it reconnected, I got an 03 error, which is a Hall sensor fault. It runs, but very roughly. I am not skilled enough to change Hall sensors.
    Would Luna's $89 infineon controller, solve it? Just leave the 5-Hall wire disconnected?
    My current controller (bought with the Leafbike motor) has these specs:
    Input voltage: 48V
    Min. Voltage DC40 =-0.5v
    max. current: 40+- 1A
    Speet set 1-4.2v
    brake input: low-level
    Questions:
    My motor wires exit the hub on the left. Does that matter?
    Does this controller have a PAS function? I do like this approach.
    The bigger question is whether this motor is worth investing in. Or should I start over with a new front hub kit?
    Thanks.


    #2
    This is the norm with all wires exiting the left side.
    Sensorless controllers run a little rougher on start up, this is the main difference between the sensored and sensorless.
    Yes this controller can operate in pass. But it will need to be programmed to. And you will also need the CA3 display. This adds another 130 dollars.

    This controllers not sensorless and it also states at the bottom of the page (For experienced users only. Do not buy this unless you have an idea what you are getting into. This is the Emv3 controller and does not come with any kind of installation instructions.)


    This Luna controller is a sensored controller, it needs the hall sensorless connected too work. Check your motors coloured phase wires are in good condition. It's possible that the wires have melted.

    Is there resistance when you try to spin the rear wheel. If there is then the phase wires have shorted.
    To check this you will need to remove the side cover of the motor, left cover. Sometimes this requires the use of a bearing puller to remove the cover and then repair with new shrink tube. If you are not confident in doing the above, removing the side cover and checking the wiring then buy a new kit.
    Last edited by Rodney64; 06-27-2016, 04:56 PM.

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      #3
      This is very helpful, Rodney. I had thought the infineon was a dual mode controller, able to work both as sensored or sensorless. And thanks for point about needing the CA3 display for PAS. .there's a dual mode sensorless controller from a competitor, Grin, but it's already $130 and needs a cycle analyst to run PAS as well so that solution is getting up toward the price of a whole new integrated front motor kit.

      If you have any links to a good affordable sensorless controller, it might be worth a try.

      I don't have any resistance when i spin the front wheel (this is a front hub motor). But I did have a burning wire moment so fear there's damage somewhere that is not evident. I may try to pry it open and see if there's anything obvious. I see many threads on dangers to fingers of doing this carelessly.

      I appreciate the guidance.

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        #4
        This one has a controller and display which I'd recommend http://www.aliexpress.com/item/24v36....28.TG8mAF&ws_ I Recommend getting both the controller and the display so it's plug and play. Buying a controller by itself may require addition wiring to work or it may not work at all depending on how they're programmed. If you don't have a soldering iron then tell the seller which type of plug that you require for the negative positive and phase wires. Otherwise you will need to soldier on one the same that you have from your battery and phase wires. Buying this controller for the price is worth the risk in my opinion. This was how I learnt. Below is a link to where I once did a repair.

        https://endless-sphere.com/forums/vi...rt=450#p677842
        Last edited by Rodney64; 06-27-2016, 09:44 PM.

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          #5
          Is your motor direct drive? If so, a good sensorless controller like this one http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/ebike-part.../c7225-nc.html will run it. Geared motors will run sensorless at low speeds but at higher speeds they spin too fast for the controller to figure out the phase switching fast enough without the halls. If it turns out your halls are ok this controller will also figure out the hall sequence automatically. Just hook them up any way and it will sort them out without any trial and error wire matching which can be extremely tedious.
          Do something that is good for your health, good for your wallet and good for the planet - get an e-bike.

          www.poweredride.com

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