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    #16
    Originally posted by Lakejumper View Post
    Well the hardest physical part is done! I removed the crank and bottom bracket. The tool kit was helpful, especially the large Allen wrenches and bottom bracket tool. Good thing I had a 1/2" ratchet and breaker bars. I wasn't sure if I had enough strength to break the seal but it worked. Now, I need to remove the front derailleur which the chan runs through. The chain holder on the derailleur is riveted. I'm tempted to just break it apart to remove the chain, rather than take the master link off of the chain. Do you guys just snip the front derailleur cable and pull it through the frame to remove it? Last question, should I install the motor first or the throttle, display and new brake sensor levers first?
    In my experience, the order in which you install components does not matter.

    In order to remove the front derailleur, you can snip the shifter cable with cable cutters and pull it through the frame. Be careful about leaving a hole in your frame where the mounting rivet was (in order to prevent water from getting in there).

    If it were me, I would remove all the front derailleur parts that will no longer be used (to save weight and clutter). One way to seal a hole in an aluminum frame is with a rivet. You could even wipe a little silicone on the rivet first. You might consider tapping down the sides of the aluminum rivet with a brass hammer so that the rivet will be flush with the frame. You could paint the rivet to match the frame, as well.

    Let's see a picture of this rivet that mounts the front derailleur to the frame.
    Last edited by commuter ebikes; 08-28-2018, 08:29 PM.

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      #17
      You are not taking the front derailleur apart to get the chain out. You take the chain apart to remove it from the derailleur. There may be a master link on the chain already, in which case it is really easy to remove if you have the expensive Park tool to do it. Commuterebikes, is there a cheap way to remove a master link? Or better yet, a way to do it in the field? I have tried needle nose pliers etc. and it almost can't be done. However with the Park tool it is just an easy pop and it is off. Check Park tools you tube channel, it is a must have bookmark. The master link pliers from Park will be sold at every local bike shop.

      Now if you don't have a master link, you just use the chain breaker to push out a pin. Did you get a chain breaker? Then use a master link for a 7 speed to put it back together. You don't need master link pliers to click it together. Just tighten the chain and it will snap together. Ah heck, even it has a master link you could use the chain breaker somewhere else on the chain and when your done you would just have two master links in the chain. I would grimace, but no one else would ever notice.

      You will have to resize the chain after the kit is on anyways.

      Comment


      • xcnick
        xcnick commented
        Editing a comment
        We need a picture of all the tools!

      #18
      I removed the chain using the chain breaker tool. Now, on to solving the shifter for the rear derailleur. I have a combination thumb shifter-brake mounted on the right side. It replaced the original grip-twist shifter which I still have (see pictures). I'll have a Universal Thumb Throttle (UTT) and also purchased a Luna full twist grip throttle as I wasn't sure which combo to use with the Ebrake cutoff handles that I got with the kit. I have some choices for the handlebar configuration. This bike will be used for mostly full throttle and no PAS, mainly on flat gravel and asphalt trails and paths with some hills. Little off-road, but you never know once I get better tires on it! So, which would be better?

      1. Reinstall the right rear derailleur grip shifter (picture) and install the right Ebrake Cutoff handle. Use the Univ. Thumb Throttle on left side with other Ebrake Cutoff
      2. Buy a small 7-speed thumb shifter and install it on right side with Ebrake Cutoff and full-twist throttle

      I'm leaning towards #1

      I know that I'm making this too complicated. But, I wasn't sure which throttle would be better for hand/thumb fatigue (haven't received the (UTT) year to compare.
      Last edited by Lakejumper; 08-29-2018, 04:55 PM.

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      • Lakejumper
        Lakejumper commented
        Editing a comment
        One thing I thought of...if I were to buy a new 7-speed thumb shifter and use the Full twist throttle on the right side, will I be able to reach the brake handle? Would I put on the shifter first, then the brake handle and grip throttle in that order on the handlebar?

      #19
      Good evening, you are doing great and hitting all the right questions. Consider this, when I need to start on a hill I hold the back brake and give it throttle. Simple enough, except if you have a brake cut off on the back brake you get just enough lag to roll back, jerk the throttle, and fall on your posterior. You gotta love how I clean up my language for a girl.

      I have a big beautiful write up on the Nomad Gen 1 in progress and you already have twice the views. Townie or girl, not sure which, no pressure.

      So I would not use a brake cut off on the back brake which means you can just leave the shifter, brake combo as is and move on. Installing a drive train is something you will learn, but it would be nice to not have to mess with learning drivetrains while you are excited to get going. (My buddy with the Nomad spent an entire day to install a drivetrain, his first time. And he had me to instantly answer questions.) Come back to this if you don't like it. Twist shifter is a clean look, but didn't work for me because I would shift by accident.

      So to do this hill holding trick the rear brake and throttle have to be on separate hands. The thumb throttle on the left will be your main throttle because the back brake is on the right, but go ahead and install the twist too. You can plug it in when your thumb needs a break. You only loose the hill holding thingy. If you like twist better you can really mangle your bike like I did and reverse the brakes like they do in England. But it is really hard to get used the brakes on the other side and the resulting crashes are spectacular.

      Put the brake cutoff on the front brake. Easy Peazy.

      How many teeth on the old chain ring? How many on the new?

      I am not getting updates on this thread so go a head and PM if something is pressing and you think I can help.

      Comment


        #20
        Xcnick, I really appreciate the input about starting on a hill. It's something that I hadn't thought about. The third choice, which I deleted in my post, was to leave off the Ebrake Cutoff handle. I like the idea of keeping it on the front brake only. I originally had 48 teeth on the front large sprocket and am going with the Bafang 46T which came with the kit. I thought that I would try it first and can switch to another size later if needed. It definitely doesn't look as good as the other ones available! I cannot thank you (and Commuterebikes!) enough for the time and input you have provided to me with my noob questions. I have searched the forums threads and continue to do so. I probably should post these questions on the general discussion/technical forum threads if needed going forward. BTW, the cables will be long enough.

        Comment


          #21
          Keep it all here! I see the point of better organization, but with this chronological order one can see you run into things like the drivetrain and brakes that you hadn't thought of before you got started and you don't find in the instructions. A build is a story. The mods you do over the next five years belong in their own topic.

          The Bafang brake levers are convenient with the built in switch, but they are pretty cheep. Something about the leverage or pull made them a bit difficult to set compared to the brake our Townie came with. Great big motorcycle levers are a bit ugly too. Your change in thinking is fine. One first thinks put all the safety stuff on before first ride so one doesn't die early. However this safety stuff is more for PAS only bikes. The shift interupter is the most important for PAS, but with throttle you can learn perfect shifting in less than 5 minutes without it. Same with the brake, PAS safety thing. Only a PAS throttle stays on when you take your hand off. (and they say this is safer?) Think cruise control on the car, you want to hit the brake and have it shut off. No cruise control, no need.

          You have enough chain, probably fit first try with small b screw adjustment. You do have a master link to put it back together? The 46 is heavy but works fine. As you ride you will figure the gear ratios you need, then look at getting the ratios you want as a function of both the cassette and chain ring. 46 to 36 will be your low gear, 1.28. That is not getting you up my driveway, but who knows with yours. Special to you is your geography and the big jump from your 36 to your second gear. We run a Lekkie 42 which keeps this jump smaller. (With a 52 you will have the fastest Townie in the world. I had to take that off.) Only a Townie can swing a 52.

          I want to see a pic of the HD bolted up tonight. Erik, bring her a battery while she waits!



          Comment


          • commuter ebikes
            commuter ebikes commented
            Editing a comment
            I only have 36V batteries with Anderson SB50 connectors.

          • Lakejumper
            Lakejumper commented
            Editing a comment
            I'm sure XCnick was kidding! No hurry here...I'm still problem solving how to mount one of the available batteries. I mentioned below that I found a 48v 10ah 30q battery locally (Terry). Per my reply to XCnick, I'll be out of town for a trip and will continue the project when I return.
            Last edited by Lakejumper; 08-30-2018, 08:27 PM.

          • xcnick
            xcnick commented
            Editing a comment
            Shouldn't have offered someone else's stuff, my bad. His combinations of RC batteries can never add up to 52. If we ever get together you can throw any of my batteries in a backpack and get some data. Just tapping into the energy of a newbie wondering what this is going to feel like.

          #22
          What ever you do, don't let the cockpit get cluttered. I like the combo brake/shifter you have. It might prevent this:

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          • Lakejumper
            Lakejumper commented
            Editing a comment
            There's a lot of stuff there! I put the motor in today but haven't bolted it up yet as I'm debating if I should reroute the rear brake cable/casing that is coming out of the bottom of the downtube. It goes in between where the motor will lean against the frame. I'd like to keep it where it is if it doesn't get pinched. Went to LBS and bought chain, extra links (emergencies) and some master links. Also, picked up the special order from REI for the Salsa Anything Cage and Waterproof bag for the battery. Now, I need to see what size 30q battery will fit. Would love to get the Luna 52v 10ah like you used. But, it could be a long wait as they're so busy. I did find a 48v12ah 30q battery locally, but haven't bought it. I probably won't get much more done as I have a RV repair guy coming to do a minor job tomorrow and have to pack to leave for a 10-day trip. I'll have to finish up when I return. Can't wait to get but don't want to rush!
            Last edited by Lakejumper; 08-30-2018, 08:11 PM.

          #23
          At the risk of stereotyping you from you zip code, are you interested in the Townie wine tasting tour?

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          • Lakejumper
            Lakejumper commented
            Editing a comment
            I love the wine glass holder...and you don't have to worry about a DUI!

          #24
          You are on a good pace evidenced by the brake line question. This is a classic since I have done one. It doesn't pinch! Close, but it sits there freely. Now taking this picture was weird. I had to bend down and face the phone upwards to get this. First time, I swear.

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            #25
            Keep thinking about the battery while you have time. It seems people understand range of a battery, but often miss the Power of a battery pack.

            Power being what you can instantly suck out the battery. Stock BBSHD sucks 30 amps. 2p of 30Q can handle 30 amps, and BMS of mighty mini is 30amps. My 3p GA pack has more range because each GA cell has more range and it is 3p. However GA cells in 3p have the same power limitation: 30amps from cells, 30amps from BMS.

            The 3p of GA cells gave me almost twice the range of the mighty mini for only a weight gain of half again. Calfree put this on his Paratrouper and I on this Townie with good results.

            However, stay focused on what you need. Francesca has no throttle and never uses up the entire battery. Therefor I now want to loose half the range just to save one quarter of the weight. Makes no sense unless you see the job at hand. The mighty mini just above the motor will keep the weight down low, another benefit for loosing half the range. You have me inspired, I am going to get to this. I have to cut off the tube that used to hold on the front derailleur.

            Consider the job at hand, but also what mods in the future you want to do. If you are going to start pulling 50amps with a modification, will you still be able to use this battery? No, remember both just barely supply enough to pull 30amps.

            However the long time trick of Luna customers is to run two mighty minis in parallel to drive the Luna Ludicrous controller pulling 50amps. So if I were you I would put one mighty mini above the motor and another where I have had my battery. Then you would be ready to upgrade to a more powerful controller in the future. In the mean time you carry only the battery you need, one for short trips, two for long. Can the battery pack you can buy local pull 50amps? Maybe the cells can but the BMS can't.

            Now if you want to run away from home get the square EM3 5p in 35E and strap it to the rack. Looks available and what I would like to try. It would also be good to blast around town at full speed. I go the speed of traffic and nothing sucks more out of a battery. And what people forget is that the 2p mighty mini of 30Q cells or the 3p of GA cells at 46 volts could die with one blip of the throttle because it sags to 41. However a 5p battery at 46 volts won't sag as much and you can use much more of the 5p battery before having to PAS. Looks like it will handle a mod pulling 50 amps as well. BMS talks to your phone, cutting edge 35E cells individually fused. Did I mention in stock?

            Comment


              #26
              Originally posted by xcnick View Post
              ...It would also be good to blast around town at full speed...
              I like your thinking!

              Comment


              • xcnick
                xcnick commented
                Editing a comment
                The Townie is a rare bike that can use the rack for a battery because of it's long front end. That EM3 battery is looking really good. Then there is still room for 2 mighty minis in parallel as well. Maybe deep in the panties rather than on top of the rack. I never put a Ludi on the Townie, but thought of it often enough. I did a 52 front however and it would take a Ludi to get the most of it.

                I never thought I would go so fast on the street, but it soon became apparent that it is much safer. She needs to ride a bit to find out what works for her, but without a battery...

                I wonder if the 5p EM3 didn't work for her if she could re-sell it. Batteries seem to be tough to get now.

              #27
              Lakejumper, report! Even without a battery you can ride around and get it to fit. Did the cable clear the motor? I turned the gooseneck around 180 degrees because Francesca can't reach the handle bars. 150mm cranks, stuff like this you can figure out without power. Just installed our 3rd kickstand. This one can extend by pushing the red button. Stock was hard to kick in position, Greenfield poked though the rubber foot in a week, and this porridge is just right.

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              • Lakejumper
                Lakejumper commented
                Editing a comment
                I'm still on my trip...will hopefully be back to the bike later this week. I've had limited cell signal and no Wifi but have been online some. I like the kickstand. I agree about the stock stand. The bike almost falls over now without the additional weight. What brand is it? I put the motor on without bolting it before I left and the cable will be fine. Thanks for the pics!

              • xcnick
                xcnick commented
                Editing a comment
                https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 is the one I bought, but I am guessing it is branded under other names as well. Good to hear from you.

              #28
              Got alot done today! I installed the motor, chainring, crank arms (I’ll replace for better Shimano ones when they arrive), pedals, brake, thumb throttle, control pad and display. I held off on the twist throttle for now. Just have the speed sensor, chain/alignment and cable mgmt left to do. I’m very happy that I bought the bike tool set. I did buy some hex bit sockets so that I could tighten the screws on the motor bracket better.
              Last edited by Lakejumper; 09-16-2018, 04:50 PM.

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              • Lakejumper
                Lakejumper commented
                Editing a comment
                Sorry for the messy garage! Actually, it was worse yesterday!

              #29
              Originally posted by Lakejumper View Post
              Got alot done today! I installed the motor, chainring, crank arms (I’ll replace for better Shimano ones when they arrive), pedals, brake, thumb throttle, control pad and display. I held off on the twist throttle for now. Just have the speed sensor, chain/alignment and cable mgmt left to do. I’m very happy that I bought the bike tool set. I did buy some hex bit sockets so that I could tighten the screws on the motor bracket better.
              That was a productive day!

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                #30
                Well, my Electra Townie is almost finished! I got the magnet mounts attached to the rear rack and got the Wolf battery on there. I just need to shorten the battery harness as the extension that Luna sent me is about one foot longer than I need. I guess it will need to be cut and soldered. I need to clean up some cables with ties and calibrate the speed sensor and wheel size with the display and I’m ready for a test run. The motor tested and runs well. There is an extra cable from the motor which I believe is for a headlight which I don’t plan to use. There is no cap for the plug. Do folks just tape it up to protect it from the elements.
                Forgot to mention that I still have Brake pads on this bike so I bought the Kool Stop ebike pads.
                Many thanks to everyone and especially XCnick and Commuter Ebikes, as I couldn’t have tackled this project without your help. High Voltage, Max Voltage, Paxtana and others have answered my many questions and advice.
                Last edited by Lakejumper; 10-02-2018, 07:28 PM.

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