I have a new controller. The display comes on for a second with error 30 then drops right out like it did with the old controller. I can talk to the new controller with the programming cable, but not the old one. I have checked continuity of the cable from the motor to the display, brakes, and throttle. The motor looks good and ohms out the same for all three sets of windings. When I use the programming cable to bypass the display and push the thumb throttle nothing happens. If the Hall sensors are bad would nothing happen? Also want to know what the connector that goes into the clutch area does? I haven't taken that apart yet as I can't get the motor to move. Need advice.
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Thanks for the help. I did check that there was no continuity between other wires, so I "think" I have a good cable. My next step is the hall sensors. i did establish that the controller was putting out 5V on the first two pins. I am going to cut off the connector to the broken controller and use that to check the hall sensors. I found a 5VDC wall wart and was going to put that on the two power pins and then check the other three wires to ground to see if they are behaving.
I'd still like to know what that other connector does? The smaller one that goes from the controller into the clutch gearing part. Also, what is the best way to get the rotor out? The magnets are so strong that I can't get it out. I just wanted to do a better resistance test on the coils with them out.
From your advice, it looks like I should get a new cable first. I'm thinking I might be in for a new motor too. At least that's what some of the advice says if the hall sensors are bad. I also saw a guy on youtube fix his hall sensors by just making better solder joints after he crashed and another where a guy replaced one sensor. I can solder, but I'm not an expert like these guys were. We'll see. I'll update when I can, but I haven't had a chance to mess with it. -
Never mind about that second connector. Mind you this build lasted several years, It was my first and I forgot most of the assembly. I figured out it must be for the PAS sensor, which is internal. Somehow I was thinking it was a magnet on the crank arm. Brain fart.Comment
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I bought a new cable, but that's not it. Works the same as the old. I am testing with the display bypassed. What happens now is the motor shuts off after about 30 secs with the throttle on low and shuts off faster with more throttle. Seemingly linear. If I power cycle the battery it starts over. I don't believe it's the battery bms because a cyclone build works fine even if I get the motor hot. I know it's not the voltage and I doubt it's the current, but I haven't put an ammeter on it. I did drop the current limit from 30 amps to 10 amps and it stays on just as long at each percentage of throttle so it should be kicking out faster if current were doing it. I programmed the PAS sensor to none even though that shouldn't matter. It responds just fine to the thumb throttle, but it only takes so much energy before it drops out. Faster speed -> shorter time.
There's no thermal element in the controller. And why does only power cycling reset it?
This was the way it was acting with the old controller when it was on the bike. I could power off the battery and ride a little ways then it would stop. Can't be the hall sensors, can it? I tested them and it was pretty inconclusive (wasn't getting a definite on/off signal). If I disconnect the hall sensor board and try it, the motor won't start.
The display still comes on for a second and turns off. If I hold the power button on it just goes to error 30. Might need a display too, but I figure I'll wait until I get it to work in bypass.
Any suggestions?Comment
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Took the gear box off to see if that was bogging it down and yes it needed grease, but even with the main shaft spinning freely, it still cuts out and approximately the same times. In the mean time I saw the thread where someone with a hub motor was cutting out and stts said there was a short starting or a faulty thermistor or thermostat relay kicking it out early. Stts even had a link to a youtube video where a guy replaced his shaft and showed a winding starting to short. In my inspection I saw no such thing, but where would the controller get this info to cut out? The only thing connected is the hall sensors and somehow a new controller is turning off the motor.Comment
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I am at a loss. I have a new controller, new wiring harness, and now a new motor core. I get the same thing, The display blinks on for a second when I power up. I bypass the display with the programming cable and the motor turns for twenty to thirty seconds and shuts down. I jammed the multimeter into the anderson connectors and the voltage stays on when it shuts off so not a bms issue. When I turn off the battery for a few seconds it will do it all over again. I am only using about 1 to 2 amps from the battery. This is all bench testing with the motor only spinning the reduction gears and not the main crank gear. Very frustrating.Comment
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Thank you, thank you, thank you. I wish I had known that about the speed sensor. I have been trying for hours. I was just going to try reprogramming it saying no speed sensor. I did try to see if it would work on PAS but it dropped out to. I'll try it without the speed sensor parameter while it's out and even if that doesn't work I'll just put it all back on the bike. I now have hope.Comment
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My mistake. Looks like you have to have a speed sensor, it was the pedal sensor that you can say none. Thanks again and I'll let you know.Comment
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yes, it needed the speed sensor to stay on. Thanks for the help.Comment
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Sorry to Butt Into the conversation but for some reason I have not been able to start a New Topic. Do understand why. But.....
I'm really struggling with this one. I had two G510 motors, one with a faulty Controller (48v from Bafang) and the other with a burnt Coil (52V from Luna).
I swapped the controller from the 52V into the 48V. Did a lot of local test riding, everything went great for 4-rides for a total of about 17 miles.
Loaded my Bike into my Pick-up and went to the trails. Got to the trails and about 20 feet into the ride up pops the vicious Error Code 30 and the bike quits.
After returning home I started the process of elimination. Checked all the connections coming from the Wiring Harness, checked all the Pins in the connectors (with a magnifying glass).
All connections seem good. I happen to have another Wiring Harness so I pulled the motor and did a test with the different Harness and got the same Error Code 30. My display shows available power by Voltage, usually about 57V is Fully Charged. When Error Code 30 kicks in it drops to 32-36V. Now at full charge it maxes out at about 45V. I happen to have another Display so I swapped it out. Still got the vicious code 30.
Tested the power coming from the battery to motor connectors. Showed plenty of Volts.
Happen to have a different Speed Sensor so I tried swapping sensors. Same code.
My son happens to have the same Frey Mountain Bike as I have so I borrowed his Battery and tried it but got the same code 30 and dropped to 36V's. On his bike it registered 57V.
I figured this all must be due to the 52V Controller Swapped into the 48V motor.
Frustrated to no end, I opted to purchase a new motor. Ordered via Alibaba since Luna did not have the motor at the time. Received it in 4 days!
Did the motor swap and got the same Damm Error Code 30.
I have run out of knowledge on this topic. Can anyone give me some advice??Comment
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Really appreciate the Response stts. I do believe it must be some wiring/connector issue. I did replace the whole motor with a new one and still got the Code 30.
One other thing I had to do was replace the Positive Connector on the Battery feed to the motor. I tested it with a volt meter after changing the connector and it was putting out high voltage.
Thanks again for the reply and the advise. I will check everything again. If you think of anything else please let me know.
RockyComment
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It’s a weird one for sure. I have tested the motor without the break sensors connected, still got the code. Frustrating.Comment
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Thanks for hanging with me stts, appreciate the responses and suggestions. I’ll report back.Last edited by Rocky Dixon; 02-02-2023, 06:35 PM.Comment
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Sorry stts, I haven't been on in a while. You asked if the display started working. It did not, so I just run it without a display. I will order one of the cheapy ones you suggested when i iron everything out.
I now have a different problem. It goes in crawl mode. I then started messing with the program and it stayed in crawl mode, then I power cycled it and it worked properly. I checked this morning and it was in crawl mode again (crawl- very slow even at full throttle). I cycled it and it still doesn't work. Not sure why it's going slow or how to get out of it. I will try reprogramming it again. I do have a 52V battery at about 56V right now. I bought a 48V controller. Since I don't have a display, I don't know if it's kicking an error 7. But even if it was, I find nothing on the web that says it should revert to the slow speed. I did find a youtube video where I can flash the 48V controller to 52V. The program and settings come from Golden Motor. I am a bit leery as there are a lot of parameters that aren't explained and I don't want to brick my controller.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Bingo, Son of a Bike. I reviewed your suggestions and believe I have done all these processes already but figured I would give it one more go through based on Your process of elimination.
Did all the unplugging and disconnecting processes as suggested (and as done in my desperate attempts earlier). After eliminating the Break Sensors, Speed Sensors, Display, Throttle and checking the power coming from the battery I was down to replacing the wiring harness which I had tried once early on but thought I had gone this far so I should complete the process. Bam! No More error code 30. Went for an 8 mile ride and all went well.
Thanks stts for all your help and encouraging me not to give up. I was about to but you inspired me to try again. I’ll forward my theory with some photos.
Thanks Bro.Comment
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