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    ZOOMO Zero e-bike LCD / Battery issues?

    Hello all - looking for some advice! Will try to make this as brief as possible.

    I currently have a Zoomo Zero [https://assets-global.website-files.com/5ef41bb456726c3a2ea9838a/630c639207ee338589ab21bd_Zoomo_Zero3 1.jpg]

    It has a King-meter KM5SR LCD - https://topeparts.com/product/km5s-r-lcd-display/

    I purchased this bike refurbished about 3 months ago as Zoomo was closing up shop here in Philly and their bikes were offered to current renters at a massive discount (I paid $700 for it) I use it as my main source of transportation, so everyday. I also do food delivery part time, so it gets nonstop use.

    About a month after purchasing it the key mechanism for the battery broke...you turn the key but it just spins and doesn't release the battery. Battery has been in the frame ever since. I could still charge it so it wasn't an issue.

    1 week ago is when things started going downhill. I was out riding and the bike died on me. After doing some inspecting I realized the battery seemed a bit loose and more than likely wasn't flush the the prongs so I was losing power. I wrapped a bungee cord around it to secure it and I was back up and running.

    Now today, the LCD (pictured above) won't turn on so I can't use the bike. It started giving me odd problems sporadically last week, it randomly wouldn't turn on, i'd push the buttons a bit (power, up down, combo of all), eventually it'd come on, i'd swipe my fob and the bike would start. Once it was on it was good. Now I can't get it to turn on at all. Battery is fully charged and appears to be secure. If I take the bungee cord off and shake the bike a bit with the battery on, it'll shut off as if it was just disconnected. If I shake it with the cord wrapped around it securing it, it stays on. So there at least does seem to be a solid battery connection. I'm leaning towards it being an LCD issue but who am I.

    My question is, can I simply replace the King LCD with something else with the same specs to get the bike to turn on, or do I have to get a replacement King-meter? Is it the prongs that are probably screwed from the bungee cord? Electronics problem? Sucks I can't even get the battery out either.

    Looking for any advice to help get me back on the road. Nobody around here seems to work on ebikes, or at least zoomo ebikes so i'm a bit strapped. They had onsite mechanics that fixed everything at their shop but the shop is no more. Closest one is NYC.

    Thanks!‚Äč

    #2
    Thanks so much for the reply STTS

    Hopefully I can find a local locksmith/mechanic willing to help me out. The same exact thing happened on another zoomo I was renting before the one I own now. Their mechanics quickly fixed it though, I remember them telling me they drilled it out like you are describing.

    Here's a photo of the keyring, it has to be insanely cheap. Hopefully easily defeated!



    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by zigzagman View Post
      Thanks so much for the reply STTS

      Hopefully I can find a local locksmith/mechanic willing to help me out. The same exact thing happened on another zoomo I was renting before the one I own now. Their mechanics quickly fixed it though, I remember them telling me they drilled it out like you are describing.

      Here's a photo of the keyring, it has to be insanely cheap. Hopefully easily defeated!


      I'm literally finding all the ZOOMO parts on ali express haha, it's no wonder their shop was always backed up with people needing their bikes serviced! Their rentals were $30-50 a week and unlimited free service visits were included so it was sort of worth it. Only thing they charged for were flats.

      Ali has the same KING LCD for $122, comes with the buttons and fobs - https://www.aliexpress.us/item/32568...andl_shipto=US

      I put out a few calls/messages to locksmiths in the area, no reply yet. I'm wondering if in the meantime I buy a mid range LCD off amazon and hook it up, if it would start the motor and turn on?

      Would I be able swap out the KING LCD with any other that has a UART female connector, such as this https://www.amazon.com/Zeekpowa-C961...DZ/ref=sr_1_29
      Last edited by zigzagman; 01-09-2023, 11:18 PM.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by zigzagman View Post
        Thanks so much for the reply STTS

        Hopefully I can find a local locksmith/mechanic willing to help me out. The same exact thing happened on another zoomo I was renting before the one I own now. Their mechanics quickly fixed it though, I remember them telling me they drilled it out like you are describing.

        Here's a photo of the keyring, it has to be insanely cheap. Hopefully easily defeated!


        Thanks again for the replies STTS

        I actually got the LED to power on today and did about 10 miles on the bike, all throttle.

        So here's the thing. After messing around with it earlier today, it appears the LED will ONLY power on if the battery is at 100% WITH the charger plugged in. However it won't turn on under any other circumstances. If I unplug the charger and turn the LED off, it won't turn back on. This LED also automatically shuts off after 10 minutes of inactivity, so for example tonight I stopped in a grocery store and had to get in and out within 10 minutes lol Thank god for self checkout! But once it's on it seems to be good as long as it isn't shut off. very odd.

        I've been in contact with the company and it looks like i'm going to make the 1 hr drive to their closest shop within the next week or so, i'm thinking I tell them to hold off on reinstalling the same lock, just get the battery out and i'll secure it with a bungee cord or something until I find a higher quality lock I can install. It's absolutely crazy, they charge 2.5-3K for these bikes and some of the parts are off aliexpress.
        Last edited by zigzagman; 01-10-2023, 08:25 PM.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by zigzagman View Post

          Thanks again for the replies STTS

          I actually got the LED to power on today and did about 10 miles on the bike, all throttle.

          So here's the thing. After messing around with it earlier today, it appears the LED will ONLY power on if the battery is at 100% WITH the charger plugged in. However it won't turn on under any other circumstances. If I unplug the charger and turn the LED off, it won't turn back on. This LED also automatically shuts off after 10 minutes of inactivity, so for example tonight I stopped in a grocery store and had to get in and out within 10 minutes lol Thank god for self checkout! But once it's on it seems to be good as long as it isn't shut off. very odd.

          I've been in contact with the company and it looks like i'm going to make the 1 hr drive to their closest shop within the next week or so, i'm thinking I tell them to hold off on reinstalling the same lock, just get the battery out and i'll secure it with a bungee cord or something until I find a higher quality lock I can install. It's absolutely crazy, they charge 2.5-3K for these bikes and some of the parts are off aliexpress.
          Hey STTS - its been a little while!

          I found 1 shop that was willing to look at the bike and exactly like you said, the connectors are bad, however they don't know which one (the connector ON the battery or the connector in the frame the battery attaches TO, or both!)

          Despite these being very cheap parts and from what I can tell relatively easy to replace at least from watching youtube videos, the shop doesn't seem to think it's worth the repair.

          What do you think?? Thanks as always.

          Comment


            #6
            Doh, I forgot to mention they did get the battery out! Hadn't had my coffee yet lol The retention battery on my bike uses a 6 pin connection https://www.fthpower.com/collections.../fth-ep48-12-8

            I found both individual male and female replacement 6 pin connectors here https://www.greenbikekit.com/e-bike-...-2p-6pins.html

            But I also found a 'Plug Mount Base' with the same 6 pin male connector that that comes with a key mechanism, looks like the same one that's on my bike now that busted https://www.aliexpress.com/i/3256804...apt=4itemAdapt so you're probably right again and the lock has a switch.

            Do you think i'd be able to just replace the connectors instead of the whole mount with the key mechanism and ditch the locking aspect entierly?

            The 6 pin connector in the frame has a large washer around it that looks like it would be easy to swap out but I don't know as I don't have the bike back yet so can't inspect things right now. I'd rather not have a lock on the battery at all if I have to use that one, so if I can avoid that I want to, the locks are really trash! Major flaw with this companies bikes, happened to a lot of people I knew that rented/bought their bikes.

            Hoping I can just replace both connectors, starting with the one in the frame 1st and then secure the battery with a bungee cord or similar apparatus. I never leave the bike outside so I'm not worried about the battery not having a lock.

            Looks like replacing the connector on the battery requires some very minor soldering but i'm betting the battery is entirely fine and the connector in the frame attached to this stupid lock is the problem...but that's based off nothing just a feeling lol

            Comment


              #7
              hey stts - Now that the battery is out of the frame I can access pretty much everything!

              However the bad news is my battery is now shutting off after exactly 20 seconds despite being fully charged. I also can't turn it off in that time frame like I should be able to (hard press). The connector on it looks a bit singed and has that burnt electronics smell.

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              Connector in frame

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              Looks like i'm going to still have to replace the entire lock mounting base because it'd be impossible to insert the battery into the frame without it. I mean I can but wouldn't be able to get it out again!

              The bike shop that drilled out the lock said there was a tiny piece of metal that broke off the locking mechanism, i'm thinking maybe it found its way in-between the connectors and caused mayhem but who knows!

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              Looks like it may have been a battery connector issue all along maybe. the in frame connector will be replaced regardless since it comes with the locking base, it's all in 1 piece https://www.aliexpress.com/i/3256804...apt=4itemAdapt

              any idea if the burnt connector on the battery would make it automatically shut off as a safety feature? Can't even find any company info about this battery manufacturer! Good news is replacements are readily locally off craigslist, etc and aren't all that expensive. I'm wondering though if the battery is toast all together now or if replacing the socket would fix it..maybe there's a short causing it to just shut off? The battery was always very solid and only had a couple hundred miles on it. I'd hate to think it's done but for I guess that's the way it goes sometimes. As usual youtube makes everything look so simple (same brand battery different model connector replacement) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CJO5XljjF6M

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